Top 20 1997 Geo Tracker 2 Door Questions & Answers

just up and back down because of environment requirements it could have been connected to a vacuum connection or up to a hose connected to the air filter box so that any fumes from the clutch area would be taken through the engine

the transmission problem could be an oil change and the shifting could be a vacuum hose or actuator problem both fairly simple white smoke normally indicates water ( head gasket, EGR valve problem) you will have to take it to an accredited service center for a closer diagnosis But from your opening statement I would cut your losses and sell it while it still runs

got A/c option?noise can be caused by many thingsfrom bad blower bearings, to something stuck there.or just loose vent ratting. is just a blower. in a box and some vents and dampers. those too can get loose.why not use a rubber hose to ear or better buy a $5 stethoscope at the autostore and find exact point it makes noise. with this tool.also you can press on vent pipes with hands, so see if that cause the noise to stop. or get better, and you can watch the damperlever,, to see, if they wiggle and rattle , ?step 1: defeat air bags, (a great danger to all fidders there)http://www.fixkick.com/Cooling-engine/heater-core-madness/shrunk/html/index.htmlfor 100% sure nobody can guess on the blind as bat forum.get car serviced"?could even be a dead mouse there, crawled down cowl ventthen in to heater boxes. (if a/c opted, he must stop at a/c core...)or same for tree leave and tiny branches, working down that same top front cowl vent..i had one that whole cowl was packed in dead tree parts.

there are only but a few leak points, on this water cooled engine.

1. valve cover gasket tops list.
2. the 2 distributor o-rings, leaks down bell housing.
3. or the distributor base housing not mounted and sealed by the book. (need book?)
4. front cam seal (cover off look)?
5. front crank seal (or the bolt was never set to 94ft/lbs, torque. 17mm head bolt.
6. pan never leaks its glued on day one in the Cami factory with RTV, unless prev. owner fiddled with it. (new oil pump done wrong)
7. last it the rear oil seal, rear to leak.

there are only 2 way sto find leaks, get it clean, drive short distance. see what leaks. or use the dye kit, a kit with UV lamp and dye, pack. id do a #! valve cover, the 60k mile inspection , adds one, and most of these cars get on 60k service, ever , so the gaskets are all hard. and useless on every one ive ever seen. see oll behind here>? http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/sneak-a-peek.html

open hood , look up, see that EPA sticker there?, it shows 0.028" its a range really but low size is best. http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/tune-ups.html#SPARK16

sure, when unplugged the MAF , the PCM goes to limp home and mimics the dead or missing MAF. one reason, of many is the AFR is lean, with maf present then you remove MAF and the mimic goes horrid rich. (normal effect) this huge rich hides the true cause of horrid lean. see? 2 wrongs, make a right in this case. its a 97, why are you scan too free. connect it and see it fail. and why? see all sensors. here. same engine, same all. http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/Authority/A_Full_OBD2_scan.html air leaks on this engine cause, lean. a dirty mAF causes, lean. (clean it with carb spray 1foot away never close up) clogged injectors cause, lean. low fuel pressure causes lean. if you put all the parts back and scan it you'd see that. you'd see the 0xysensor (Front) stuck lean B1S1. bank 1 sensor 1 ignore B1S2. try a new oxysensor front. first. so the scan tool can see true facts. on a good engine, the 02 swings at idle if that fails , i jump over that like at tick on a hound dog. finding car parked and idling hot AFR issues, is easy with any scan too. the EFI must be in closed loop at idle, hot, MUST. is it>? does the maf read right at idle, ? 1.5-4.0 grams per second or MAF output pin volts of. 1.7-2.0 volts if the voltage is good ITS NOT THE MAF, its LEAN AFR. AIR FUEL RATIO IS AFR. lean means FUEL STARVATION. if you gun the throttle the maf goes higher. 3v or 20grams/second. here is me driving see MAF hit 55 grams/ a second. Hills. do that. the more HP the more Grams /per second, until max engine torque is hit. and RPM max HP. here is live data plot of a 96 MAF http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/MAF-TPS.JPG the blue line is THROTTLE ANGLE> im driving aggressive as heck. if the maf tests good, its not the MAF> its easy to test.

there will be bolts behind the bumper , to gain access remove the inner wheel arch linings and look under front of vehicle as should be able to see the bolts there as well ,may have an under tray to remove to gain access there as well

of what? post the problem or symptoms then ask for info on that. there are like 500 diagrams in my Tracker manual. see some free ones here. http://www.fixkick.com/index9.html i have the books on my self. why not post symptoms......??????

my wild guess, timing belt change out? or valve lash or , no matter it's all here. this is the G16B engine, this full timing belt page, is here. and has link to actual FSM page. http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/16-fast-belt-install.html related issues here http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/tbelt-index.html

No they are entirely different engines

Watch a You Tube Video I think if you ask a question about head gaskets, it is not likely you will be doing that job.

what car, tracker, 97 G16b MPI, the TPIS calibration is here. http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/TPS-testing.html#MYWAY and bingo , the full FSM covers this too. but only in English. vol 2 6E3- C1-8 page. http://www.acksfaq.com/96-FSM-v2-6e3-c1-pdf.htm verbatim Suzuki

3sp to 3sp/ 4sp to 4sp? see O.D lamp? sure those work, but not mixed. (anything in this world is possible, only different labor time)

old post drawing 3 http://www.fixkick.com/belts.html remove belt and 3 bolts its out (falls , duck) is the car fitted with front crash plate under nose under engine, like mine,? remove this first.

You shorted out one of your electrical components

on what, spark or cam??? this engine 1 of 2, has cam belt timed and a distributor timed... know that as a fact;. please. http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/16-fast-belt-install.html that is cam. on 16v only the pages there cover both engine,, G16a and B. TBI 8valve and MPI 16v engine.

if it is in 4 low it will lug also in 4 high if excessive u-joints could be dry and binding or just needs to be ran in 4 wheel for a few miles to lube everything up bearings gears front axle etc... be sure transfer case is full and differentials are full also you need to have same size tires all the way around.

cam timing belt. can be caused by may things, here is the list. 1: bad belt, internal strands snapped cause run off. ever roll a belt in hands, (see new box, it says that) 2: cogs, not aligned, (bad head job? , lost alignment pins) its only 2 ways but lots of ways to get there. including running the old used belt backwards, does a new Gates belt to that ,. or is a no name china clone belt. The Gates, will run true,and last longest the idler , bad, and canted can do it too. (bearings shot in it) http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/drift.html

You will over heat

Replace o/d sensor