20 Most Recent 1997 Geo Tracker 2 Door - Page 3 Questions & Answers

well i cant afford the plane fare for a inspection ,things are just as bad here in spain ,,Well dont think its jumped a tooth on belt as it would hit the valves on the pistons ,so rule that one out ,anyway a slight drop of oil on the belt helps to stop it cracking as it lubricates it a bit in a dry climate like yours ,so dont worry about that ,its front end oil seal no doubt they do wear with age and mileage .my first thought is the mass air flow sensor in the inlet manifold not reading the air flow correctly and to check it out properly it will require a scope and a frequency meter .reading the question again yes the air flow meter but also check any pipes connected to the inlet manifold for a vacumn loss ,and pull the brake servo vacumn pipe out of the servo its only on a rubber grommet that holds it into the servo and put your finger on the end in casse the diaphragm in the servo is sucking in air,then post back what you have found

Most of the white clips on the bars twist upward and the bar pulls out of it.

replace door switch

Try a 195 degree thermostat. You may have a 180 degree thermostat.

You may try putting the trans in 2 or 1, if this doesn't give you any movement check trans fluid levels hot on a level surface. If levels are correct your trans is probably bad.

check cap, check coil (OHM)

TIMING BELT CHANGE You should have some mechanical skills before attempting any engine maintenance! These are basic instructions, and you must knoe what you removed, when, and what order so you can reinstall them in order. First, you have to remove everything in the way! You need to remove the Fan, clutch, and shroud, pump pully & drive belts. Next, you need to remove the Crank Pully:

1. Crank Pully Bolt 2. Crank Pully 3. Center Bolt 4. 5mm Hex drive (used to remove pully bolts) Once the fan stuff, and pully(s) are removed, then you need to remove the Timing Belt cover:

Once the cover is removed, you will need to loosen the adjusting nut and pully bolt on the Belt Tensioner:
A. Adjust Nut B. Pully Bolt C. TENSIONER PULLY Once the the Adjust Nut, and Pully bolt are loose, move the pully as far towards the water pump as possible.
Then, you can slip the timing belt from the sprockets. Check the tensioner for roughness and excess play! DO NOT MOVE THE CAM OR CRANK SPROCKETS! IF you do, then you will have to line up the Crank and Cam for piston number one at Top Dead Center before placing the new timing belt on! Note the timing marks on the crank and camshaft sprockets. IF YOU MUST! Allign the Cam and Crank at piston#1, Top Dead Center before removing the belt. Each sprocket has a small hole, with a line through it, and there is a small groove or "V" it alligns with on the engine. Now, once the timing belt is off, look at your new timing belt. Older belts use the Squared off teeth, while new ones have the rounded teeth. Make sure you have the correct belt for your sprockets! Never reinstall a belt that is in questionable condition. BELT WEAR CONDITIONS
If there are Arrows on the belt, they must be pointing to the RIGHT when you put the new belt on the sprockets. If there isn't one, then paint one on, and place the belt back on the sprockets. The arrow will indicate to a mechanic, this is the way the belt must be put back on (if they replace any cam or crank oil seals). Slip the new belt onto the Crank sprocket. While maintaining tension on the side of the belt opposite the tensioner, slip the belt onto the Camshaft sprocket. Releace the Tensioner adjusting nut to allow spring tension against the belt. Temporarily reinstall the crank pully, taking care to align the notch in the pully with the raised area on the sprocket. Rotate the crank clockwise two complete revolutions. Recheck the alignment of the of the valve timing marks. If they do not align properly, loosen the tensioner, slip the belt off the crank pully, align the timing marks, reinstall the belt, and check alignment again. Tighten the tensioner nut, then the bolt. Reinstall all parts removed, in the opposite order, of course. Start the engine and allow to reach normal operating temp, then road test. THEORETICALLY, you should simply be able to replace the belt with the new one, and go, as long as you did not move any of the sprockets when removing or installing the belt. Most people do it this way, and do not test for alignment before replacing everything. When the belt wears, timing will be off, very little, and this is why you check alignment. The belt may have slipped a tooth, making the timing off. This is why the Cam and Crank sprockets must both align properly. An experienced person will do just that: Replace the belt, and go. It really isn't all that hard. It helps to have a second person around with some experience also.

Click on the following free, direct Link. It has the Timing Belt Diagrams, including Marks and Instructional Diagrams.

Let me know if this helped...

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1997/make/geo/model/tracker/1997_geo_tracker_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm

By law you should have a repair shop pump down the freon from the system before you remove the ac unit.If you are not planning on replacing it and the system is discharged then just remove or cut the lines.If you don't have a seperate belt just for the ac unit then you may have to try and find a ac pulley kit that replces your unit with a idler pulley.Or may just have to find a shorter belt.If it runs off of a seperate belt then no worries.And no this will not affect your heat.

hanes manual and or under the hood

i dont think you do remove the back seat and right under there should be some screws or bolts with wires connected to the fuel pump removing the bolts should do the job

check the trans mition fluid ut may be low enough to send mixt signals to the the sensors

Are you sure that it is oil and not transmission fluid? The stains can look similar unless you actually get down and touch the fluid. If it is reddish in color then it is transmission fluid, which means you have a leak somewhere in the transmission. Either way, check your transmission fluid level and make sure it is not low. If it is is low, add some fluid and bring it to a transmission specialist to help diagnose and correct the problem.

remove the gearbox ,then the flywheel ,no quick cuts ,or what often works when selling an old car and that to put in a tin of auto tranmission leak sealer in the engine oil ,it makes the seals swell up .

this means that a sensor is telling the engine module that there a malfunction in your fuel injection system have your vehicle scanned and the scanner will tell you the existing problem auto zone and or western auto or pep boys give there customers free scanning. if this information has been useful please let us know good luck

It is in the glove compartment to keep theives from opening the hood and stealing the vehicle or engine parts. Since the vehicle is a Jeep-style convertible, the interior is not secure.

To open the hood do the following (I own a 1997)

open the glove box.
reach up and to the right and you will feel the handle.
Pull handle.

The hood will still look closed, so you have to lift up on the front of the hood and then push the internal release, whioch is in the middle of the front of the hood.

E-mail me w/ any questions @ [email protected]

fuel filter is located under the vehicle, passenger side, below the seating area, front of the fuel tank, mounted on the frame in the fuel line.make sure you release the pressure on the fuel system before changing the filter. if you need further assistance please let me know.

three or four nuts on the strut tower to come off, then where it ties into the steering knuckle a spring compressor will be needed to take the mount/bearing off