2000 Volvo S40 - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You need to look at the temp sending unit it's probably faulty anthor issue with volvo is dirty throttle body's this raises havoc on the car they idle up down all over the map also you should change the thermostat too as a precautionary measure make sure it's the right temp for your year of your car thanx Chris

That would be spelled solenoid. They are inside the transmission and it requires some involved work. Shop around for estimates.

get the haynes manual online

if its closed and wont re open you can use a flathead screwdriver to get it open but beware it could get stuck in closed position you need a new motor latch or it could need a bit of WD40

rust on the small push in pin switches remove and clean them.

check the pin switches for rust in your car door frame and the trunk/boot small push in switches.

change the centrol locking relay.

check for power to the switch but as this vehicle was sold without front fogs then check with the local vehicle inspection garage thats its ok to fit them as it may not be on the paperwork for the vehicle and it could fail the test ,well this is spain home of the paperwork wannabies

This sounds more like a damaged wire shorting out against the frame than a sending unit. My old Volkswagen did the same thing, and with it, the wire from the tank had become corroded with road salt. This may very well be your problem as well, and if so, a simple wire replacement can solve your problem!

Pull the DTCs (error codes) from the system via a scan tool and post them here - this is usually related to failing sensors or connectors on the transaxle.

The car's computer might have entered into a "Limp Mode". The computer probably detected an abnormal condition dangerous for the engine/transmission and protects it from damge but allowing you to reach home or a service shop. The computer should be scanned for OBDII codes for trouble diagnose. Hope this helps.

fuel filter or fuel pump

The control knob is faulty..the dash must be removed to access the control switch and knobs..This is a moderately complcated repair,and somethng alway breaks,as there are plastic snaps on the dash that pop in and out,but once done will rattle forever..a couple screws hold in th dimming switch and a wire plugs into it,un plug,and snap in new unit..word...these can be as much as $100..or more a cheap mini light mouted aimed at the gages can be easier,plugged into cig lighter,and wire concealed in dash contour..and the come in cool colors Good luck

25lbs

You may end up having to take the back seat back out.

could be the fuel pump relay or injection relay. find the one and replace it. means it may fail soon.

start in middle work counter clock wise out is most common

Charge the battery if it is dead

It is possible to use the wrong brake fluid but if that was the case I would expect no brakes at all as the rubber cups in the master cylinder would have swollen to the point of seizing in the cylinder or be turned to mush and you will have fluid leaking every where. I suspect the problem lies in the park brake mechanism in that it is over adjusting or is rusted and not releasing correctly. If you still believe that the wrong fluid has been added ( most brands of brake fluid will mix ok---vegetable base oils--- but not mineral oil) then completely flush out the entire system using metholated spirits then several pints of new brake fluid

aw50-52 is the transmission. motronic is the fuel system. it means the two modules are not communicating with each other.you will need a pinout diagram for these modules and go from there.its difficult to remove computers on late volvos without the speciall tool.furthermore getting an acurate diagram other than a volvo service manuel [paper service manuels were discontinued in 2000].will be near impossible. in this case it makes sense to bring to the dealer.