2004 Suzuki Forenza - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Possibly a vacuum leak, check your vacuum hoses in the engine compartment as well as under the dash if you don't find a leak. A power brake booster leaking can also cause this problem. I use Carb cleaner to spray near the hoses and any check-valves a little bit at a time since it is flammable. If you spray near a leak when the engine is idling you should notice a difference and can zero in on the leak. Repair it and your problem with the air coming out the vents should be solved. There is also mechanical issues and switch issues but the vacuum leak is usually a problem with older models.

We are human. See the link below. Sounds like a tranny sensor problem. http://www.carproblemzoo.com/suzuki/forenza/transmission-sensor-problems.php

It is my understanding that there isn't a fuel filter per se for Suzuki's. They are an integral part of the fuel pump located in the tank, and are not designed to be replaced. Several manufacturers are doing this, including Toyota.

Well code 782 is for a problem with the 2-3 shift solenoid or the circuit back to the engine computer. The solenoid is inside the transmission. Code 722 was for a problem with the speed sensor. You could have a wiring harness problem.

Hey Anon... there is no way for ANYONE on fixya to be able to tell what happened to your engine.. Find a mechanic you can trust and let him work on it... OR... http://repair.chiltondiy.com/Pub/DIY/Product/2004-Suzuki-Forenza-repair-manual-online?ca=Repair&b=18074 http://repair.chiltondiy.com/Pub/DIY/Product/2004-Suzuki-Forenza-repair-manual-online?ca=Repair&b=18074

Change the starter pinion or pinion clutch assembly of starter motor. It has worn out

dab of grease at the hood pop latch thingy normally one would replace a stretched hood release cable any adjustment or way to tension the cable at the bonnet catch never heard of a diff lock on a FWD no fault codes for transmission how many miles /kms had the transmission done transmission uses shift solenoid or failing torque converter ..(no codes for that ) =service transmission

The cable terminates at the latch release located at the front center of the hood. If you can get to this, usually by removing the grill, find the lever the cable terminates in and move it manually with whatever tool you can get in there.

Gear pressure? Is this an automatic or standard transmission?

2014 showing as 2016, unanswered, the cure, answer it and its gone Page 2-12 in your operators guide states; "LOCK: This position locks your steering wheel, ignition, automatic transmission shift lever and automatic transmission. This is the only position from which you can remove the key. For easier key operation when unlocking the steering wheel, move the steering wheel back and forth while turning the key to the ACC position." this means if car has wheels (tires) againsta curb or large rock that means, wiggle the steering wheel and turn the key to lock then it can do that. in some cases it can be near impossible like in San Fransisco, on a very very very steep hill. the manual tells you set the hand brake first. or you many not get the transmission out of park or steering lock failure. do to these forces at bay. next time tell poster where your tires are. we cant guess, that. and MATTERS.

It often means that you are burning antifreeze. You asked if it needs antifreeze, have you noticed any leaking out of the reservoir tank while you are running it? Sometimes when the head gasket goes it will produce a passage for the antifreeze to pass from the capillaries into the combustion chamber. It is easy to check if you have an air compressor. Remove one of the rear sparkplugs and the radiator cap. Fill the radiator and then push some air into the sparkplug hole (get a good seal in case a valve is open). Repeat with all the cylinders and watch for air bubbles coming up into the radiator. If bubbles come up or fluid is pumped out, the head gasket is blown and must be replaced. It is more likely to happen at the back of the engine because it is farthest away from the fan and therefore gets less cooling. Also check your oil for discoloration. If it is a brownish color it could mean your oil and antifreeze are mixing and has the potential to damage your bearings

Not knowing how far your cam timing is off, your valves may be hitting the top one of a pistons. That may be why cam wont turn anymore. May be best to back up the cam a bit, remove the spark plugs & with screw driver or wooden dowel probe the cylinders to see which piston is near the top. Then rotate crank a bit to lower piston down the cylinders DO NOT USE STARTER to rotate engine while timing belt is off or valve damage may occur.

take to a dealer spares and identify it if it is too dear or unavailable , take it to a wreckers for the make and get one from them

the 2.0L engine, in uSA? (6 engine world wide even k11/12)egr tests and steps, and cleaning or extensivethe valve must not stickthe total path not blocked. end to end.488s may mean just that.it's a 5 wire motor driven EGR valveclean it firstsome will reset and cycle key on, off.use that trick to clean it, and see if it works.many newer cars the EGR has a read back device, direct. it has variable resistor in the main valve, that tells the PCM that the valve moved to the correct spot.if this fails, the valve is stuck.reading up on 488s, tells you what the test does. i dont have that book, if the motor works and is not stuck then the path is blocked, the exhaust path, this can be a small horror to cure.once you do one, then 2nd will not be fun.after you look like a carbon covered monkey.Some take a full weekend to do at home.see these 5 pins on back of main egr.there is a motor there, but one pin might beegr feed back sensor. not sure., one way to test it. is to unscrew it.and clean it then cycle the key connectedand look inside to see if it moves inside.the ECU resets it and at key on, you can watch it.if it seems to work ok,, the path is blocked, sorry

Recommend that you purchase the repair manual for your vehicle at an auto parts store.

The most likely cause is that the EGR valve position sensor is defective. But testing is required to confirm this.

Approximately 40

you meant, a good one, inexpensive.is doing the job twice fun, timely or is down time an issue?time is everything, for most folks, not me....why not get a new one, that will be GOOD.if the rear seal lip is bad, it will fail fast.good luck finding many things on suzuki, they bugged out here.even rockauto has no tc.reminds of the President that said he dreamed ofgood 5 cent cigars.seems smoking is bad for health as is suzuki.you will get what you pay for, most the timeand SUZUKI is not IT.

The only way I ever got them out is with a large drill bit. Then replaced the lock cylinder.

asked 2 times, why? sorry not answering it 2 times...