Top 20 2004 Suzuki Forenza Questions & Answers

Possibly a vacuum leak, check your vacuum hoses in the engine compartment as well as under the dash if you don't find a leak. A power brake booster leaking can also cause this problem. I use Carb cleaner to spray near the hoses and any check-valves a little bit at a time since it is flammable. If you spray near a leak when the engine is idling you should notice a difference and can zero in on the leak. Repair it and your problem with the air coming out the vents should be solved. There is also mechanical issues and switch issues but the vacuum leak is usually a problem with older models.

We are human. See the link below. Sounds like a tranny sensor problem. http://www.carproblemzoo.com/suzuki/forenza/transmission-sensor-problems.php

Hey Anon... there is no way for ANYONE on fixya to be able to tell what happened to your engine.. Find a mechanic you can trust and let him work on it... OR... http://repair.chiltondiy.com/Pub/DIY/Product/2004-Suzuki-Forenza-repair-manual-online?ca=Repair&b=18074 http://repair.chiltondiy.com/Pub/DIY/Product/2004-Suzuki-Forenza-repair-manual-online?ca=Repair&b=18074

Change the starter pinion or pinion clutch assembly of starter motor. It has worn out

dab of grease at the hood pop latch thingy normally one would replace a stretched hood release cable any adjustment or way to tension the cable at the bonnet catch never heard of a diff lock on a FWD no fault codes for transmission how many miles /kms had the transmission done transmission uses shift solenoid or failing torque converter ..(no codes for that ) =service transmission

Gear pressure? Is this an automatic or standard transmission?

take to a dealer spares and identify it if it is too dear or unavailable , take it to a wreckers for the make and get one from them

Not knowing how far your cam timing is off, your valves may be hitting the top one of a pistons. That may be why cam wont turn anymore. May be best to back up the cam a bit, remove the spark plugs & with screw driver or wooden dowel probe the cylinders to see which piston is near the top. Then rotate crank a bit to lower piston down the cylinders DO NOT USE STARTER to rotate engine while timing belt is off or valve damage may occur.

The most likely cause is that the EGR valve position sensor is defective. But testing is required to confirm this.

the 2.0L engine, in uSA? (6 engine world wide even k11/12)egr tests and steps, and cleaning or extensivethe valve must not stickthe total path not blocked. end to end.488s may mean just that.it's a 5 wire motor driven EGR valveclean it firstsome will reset and cycle key on, off.use that trick to clean it, and see if it works.many newer cars the EGR has a read back device, direct. it has variable resistor in the main valve, that tells the PCM that the valve moved to the correct spot.if this fails, the valve is stuck.reading up on 488s, tells you what the test does. i dont have that book, if the motor works and is not stuck then the path is blocked, the exhaust path, this can be a small horror to cure.once you do one, then 2nd will not be fun.after you look like a carbon covered monkey.Some take a full weekend to do at home.see these 5 pins on back of main egr.there is a motor there, but one pin might beegr feed back sensor. not sure., one way to test it. is to unscrew it.and clean it then cycle the key connectedand look inside to see if it moves inside.the ECU resets it and at key on, you can watch it.if it seems to work ok,, the path is blocked, sorry

Approximately 40

Recommend that you purchase the repair manual for your vehicle at an auto parts store.

you meant, a good one, inexpensive.is doing the job twice fun, timely or is down time an issue?time is everything, for most folks, not me....why not get a new one, that will be GOOD.if the rear seal lip is bad, it will fail fast.good luck finding many things on suzuki, they bugged out here.even rockauto has no tc.reminds of the President that said he dreamed ofgood 5 cent cigars.seems smoking is bad for health as is suzuki.you will get what you pay for, most the timeand SUZUKI is not IT.

2004 Suzuki Forenza , so say title. what engine?, 2.0L or out side usa with 5 engines used. power to.,.

1. check fuses yet, that be first. (all electrics that.)
2. scan it next to see DTC errors related to IGN COIL.????
3. RTM , the manual is 4 bucks read that yet?

https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1027-2004-forenza-service-manual.aspx so are you saying there is no spark on all 4 cylinders. that be first, 1 &4 dead or 2 &3 dead. (coil pack pairs, not with wires scrambled, they most not be connected WRONG) if only 1 pair fail we have a cure. if all 4 die, other ,,, see? tests matter, doing all tests on wasted spark, tells you whats up. test with 2 spark plugs. new. shells gounded. 1 and 4 then 2 and 3. pairs. all 4 fail, or just 1 pair? a key fact. on all wasted spark systems. if you scan and get DTC shows, cmp dead, ckp dead or ignitor 1 dead, well, ???? do you>? coil pack if pin 2 is 0v, cranking the fuse EF10 is blown or the pump relay open. to fix cars like this, you need the book, the schematic, as seen here. the ecu fires the hidden coil pack drivers. if one plug goes open , you lose 2 cylinders if one HV wire goes open, same. see? if one HV wire shorts to ground only THAT cylinder goes dead. pin 86 is 12vdc cranking pin 85 , the ECU grounds this pin to send power to the coil pack. pin 30 is obvious, 12vdc all the time.

Your car has hydraulic lifters. Hydraulic lifters just means that it uses engine oil to control the valve clearances using a bucket and shim arrangement. Here's a generic image of what a hydraulic lifter can look like: If the car makes a tapping sound at start up, this points to a problem in the camshaft area - including the hydraulic lifers/shims. Valve clearances are controlled by the lifters and shims. It could also be a worn camshaft - the lobes can become rounded. Usually, there is no adjustment possible with most hydraulic lifters. Replacement (usually) means you have to remove the camshaft, though I am by no means certain about your particular model. If you have the tools and ability, remove the rocker cover and have a look at things. The image above shows a camshaft - the lobe is worn and rounded. When this happens valve clearance is excessive and may lead to a tapping noise. Engine efficiency is also affected. The image below shows hydraulic lifters (example only..). The lifter on the left has a 'dished' surface - wear caused by the camshaft or the lifter not being able to 'turn' in its bore. The usual cause of this is (a) short trips where the engine hasn't had a chance to warm up properly and pump oil to the camshaft area (b) poor oil/infrequent oil changes (c) stuck lifter. Before you spend money on parts or repairs, first try adding some oil flush to the engine to clear out carbon and 'sticky' deposits. ... follow the instructions on the bottle... Then change your engine oil and add something like a 'valve train additive' - this will try and quieten the tapping noise. The (Ebay) link below will give you an idea of what additives are available (and so will your local car accessory shop). Try the cheapest and easiest first. If that doesn't work .. unless you are confident that you can inspect, diagnose and replace parts .. give a mobile mechanic a call. Those guys are usually quite good. 12results for camshaft additive

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the main lug.? this is car repair 101 basics. all this in books , online and on youtube. must we repeat that which super basics? first remove the battery neg lug, so you dont blow up the battery and eat acid in face. the go to walfart. walk to rear (heck take whole car and let them do it>? or nuttn) see that battery rack there. see to the left. that lugs. buy one and put it on.

The only way I ever got them out is with a large drill bit. Then replaced the lock cylinder.

asked 2 times, why? sorry not answering it 2 times...

lost the operators guide? in the glove box. katrina, what part of country,? Key West or Alaska.? (the -4f rule is clear) the opr. guide explains all that... by climate. page 5-8 in fact does that. ill post it now. and the words. "• SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is the only viscosity grade recommended for your vehicle. However, if it's going to be -4°F (-20°C) or above and SAE 5W-30 is not available, you may use SAE 10W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oil such as SAE 10W-40 or SAE 20W-50 under any conditions." buy the guide and not get stranded for simple things ?