20 Most Recent 2005 Audi A4 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Switch or motor. Volt/ohm meter will tell you.

Sounds like you have a bad switch

Behind the plastic panel under steering column above brake pedal

Did you check to make sure the source button was not stuck in a depressed mode. If it is an analog button then it may have caught the corner of the face. If this is a virtual switch then I would say a control board is fried and cheaper to replace the unit then to fix it.

Next check the relays.

If you have a 2005 A4, you don't have 7 gears...

visit below link http://www.answers.com/Q/Where_is_the_fuse_panel_on_an_Audi_A4

have you checked your fuses headlights ,tail lights and brake lights are all on one fuse .then if the fuse is ok check to see if the bulbs are all ok.better still replace them.and then do the same as for the fuse for your wipers

The sensor itself is not hard to replace but the issue is more likely a streched timing belt. Most po340 and poooa codes are caused by timing problems.

This has happened to my wife's 2004 A4 Convertible 2x's. I had to read the owner's manual several times to get the job done correctly (pages in the high 70's to low 80's) ...the following is offered from memory: The handle/tool needed to accomplish the task 'manually' is located in the fuse box on the LEFT SIDE of the dashboard. A small flat blade screwdriver will enable you to pry open the fuse cover & gain access to the handle/tool. Slight twist the tool and it comes out easily. Tool is a "T" shaped handle. Once you have the handle/tool IN HAND, simply turn the RED part (only) on the handle until it 'locks' in an open position. Leaves a small space on the handle. Can't recall if you go clockwise or counterclockwise, but it will be evident. Now...move both front seats forward and tilt them to gain access to rear seat. Remove the ski boot cover in middle of the rear seat and put aside. Then, 'click' the interior boot cover panel down to gain access to a 'hole' (about size of a 50 cent piece) in the top of the boot space. This hole allows you to insert (upward) the above mentioned tool into a lock/unlock mechanism in the rear deck just forward of the trunk. The tool needs to be jiggled to go 'all the way' in...you will sense that. Once in, TURN the RED part of the handle to "LOCK" the handle into the mechanism. The tool will hang down by itself. My approach is to 'store' the roof in the open convertible position first. The front portion of the roof should be partially forward as that appears to 'release' a lever within the roof's up/down mechanism to allow you to raise the rear window portion. Thus, lift (with that friend) the rear window portion up and forward (takes some effort). The roof now has a kind of 'clamshell' appearance front & rear. The front may even flop forward but tht's OK. This step exposes the rear deck. Twist the tool to unlock the rear deck. It should click & release and a small space appears enabling you to use hands (that friend again) under it (the deck). Lift the deck up & back until the hydraulics kick in and keep the deck vertically open. Now you are ready to tackle the roof & rear window for storage under the rear deck cover. Get a friend, if possible to help with the lifting...remember, this is a "Manual" job! Once here, gently push back & lower the rear window portion of the roof into the open storage area simultaneously followed by the remainder of the roof itself. Watch fingers for possible pinching in the levers, etc., during this part of operation Hopefully you now have the roof & rear window stored in the area in front of trunk and be able to lower the rear deck to almost closed position. If so, go back to the tool and twist it to 'lock' the deck in place with roof stored. Remove tool from the ski storage area by reversing procedure above. Now comes the "Moment of Truth"! With the ignition turned on and car running, use the roof switch to bring the stored roof up and all the way to the closed position. Don't forget you must keep your finger on that switch until the operation completely finishes. Then, reverse the process to open & store the roof for a good blow dry (drive)!

I took a long thin screwdriver and slid it under the bonnet and pressed it against the latch release and give the screwdriver a good whack and that freed the latch so the bonnet could open.. then I lubed the latch like crazy and it's been working ever since

Have to buy and install a new aerial.

run the fault codes to find the faulty sensors. It may be faulty injectors or injector control that is fixed when there is a need for more fuel ( in gear)

You have to replace the motor. The sensor is built into the motor wiring. Wonderful German engineering.

Could be a couple of things. One would be the regulator is worn out/ going bad. Two would be the thermo protection in the motor is going out. Either way, you will have to replace the whole unit. Regulator and motor.They don't come separate.

The car has a limp mode where it operates at a much lower power setting in order to protect components if the ECU (engine computer) detects and error. This could account for power loss and oil light, brakes are much more serious. Do they work at all (e.g do you just have to press much harder) or don't they work at all. I believe the breaks are power assisted as is the steering, so engine not working properly might be effecting the power assistance. Any which way, you shouldn't drive and get the car taken to a garage

Yes it is quite safe to drive the car with the ESP illuminated quite often the cause of the ESP illuminating is the vehicles tracking could be out of alignment.