Top 10 1998 Jeep Cherokee Questions & Answers

Put the transmission in neutral, emergency brake off, foot off the brake pedal, now try shifting out of 4 wheel drive low. If that doesn't work, drive forward, and again do the above, trans. in neutral, roll to a stop, foot off brake, try to disengage. What you're probably experiencing is called drive shaft 'wind up', and it is very difficult to disengage, but do the above and it should shift out of 4 low. countrycurt0

The hoses from your heater core should be very hot to the touch. Check the hoses going to the core from the water pump. It should be very hot. The return hose should also be very hot. Now check the hoses going to the core. If they are not the same temp, then your heater control valve is not working correctly or the vacuum is not working. At any rate, locate the vacuum line going to the heater valve. Remove the silver bar on the valve from the plastic plunger arm. You will have heat all the time now if it was only a vacuum problem. You can fix it later when it's warmer out. BTW a 200* thermostat will make your heater even hotter.

the mux part of that is short for multiplexer
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multiplexer

but suggestions from what i've read were that that was for the overseas model....

Robert

P0700 means there is a transmission fault code in the transmission controller. Since the transmission controller doesn't have a light attached, it tells the engine controller to turn the light on using this code. You'll have to access the transmission controller to further diagnose the problem.

Torque sequence ------------------ front | 12 8 4 1 5 9 13 | of | | engine | 11 7 3 2 6 10 14 | ------------------ Final torque must be reached in 3 equal steps Step 1: torque all bolts (except bolt 11) to 110 Ft/Lbs Step 2: torque bolt 11 to 100 Ft/Lbs Recheck final torque in sequence.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Disconnect the hoses at the thermostat housing.
4. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
5. Remove the cylinder head cover.
6. Loosen the rocker arms.
7. Remove the pushrods.

1. Remove the intake and exhaust manifold from the cylinder head.
2. Disconnect the spark plug wires and remove the spark plugs.
3. Disconnect the temperature sending unit wire, ignition coil and bracket assembly from the engine.
4. Remove the accessory drive belt(s).
5. Unbolt and set aside the power steering pump and bracket. Do not disconnect the hoses.
6. Remove the intake and exhaust manifold assembly.
7. If equipped with A/C, perform the following:
   1. Remove the compressor and position it aside with the lines attached.
   2. Remove the compressor bracket bolts from the cylinder head.
   3. Loosen the through bolt at the bottom of the bracket.
   
   
8. Remove the alternator.
9. Remove the cylinder head bolts, the cylinder head and gasket from the block.

1. Discard the gasket. Thoroughly clean the head-to-block mating surface.
2. Clean and inspect the cylinder head thoroughly. Refer to the engine reconditioning portion outlined later in this section.

1. Coat a new head gasket with suitable sealing compound and place it on the block. Most replacement gaskets will have the word TOP stamped on them.

it is located under the hood in the power distribution center near the coolant overflow resevoir

should hold six quarts...just to be sure, add five, run it and then re-check.
It's good to fill the filter before you put it on...doesn't need to be "full full" but just pour some in it, tap it on the ground a few times and add more...helps priming after oil change.

CAUTION: During the final tightening sequence, bolt No.11 will be tightened to a lower torque than the rest of the bolts. DO NOT overtighten bolt No.11.

• Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14) to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) torque.
• Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14) to 61 Nm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
• Check all bolts to verify they are set to 61 Nm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
• Tighten bolts in sequence:
• Bolts l through 10 to 149 Nm (110 ft. lbs.) torque.
• Bolt 11 to 13 Nm (100 ft. lbs.) torque.
• Bolts 12 through 14 to 149 Nm (110 ft. lbs.) .

1999 Jeep Cherokee 4WD 4.0 liter L6 VIN "S"



Hope this helps (remember rated this).

Hello, You have two switches which work off the pressure of the Freon. Both of these switches cut off the power to the compressor. One is for HIGH pressure and the other is for LOW pressure. Check for power at the compressor clutch connector harness while the controls are set and the engine is running. You may have power and a bad clutch.

When you say that the Freon pressure is good, does that mean the pressure is within the proper range? Too much Freon will make the HIGH switch cut off power and too little will make the LOW pressure switch cut off power.

The ideal amount(ozs) of Freon is what is recommended by the Manufactuer and it will provide a moderate amount of pressure of about 35psi-40psi. You can borrow pressure gauges, called Manifold gauges to measure your system at autoparts stores with loaner programs.

The low pressure side of the system is the one you use to induce the Freon to go into an empty system. You can bypass this switch by taking off the connector and putting a "U" shaped jumper into the harness and the compressor clutch should get power to LOCK up all of the time.

You can take off the switch connector at the compressor clutch and then check for power when bypassing the HIGH pressure switch if the LOW pressure switch does not make the system get power. Only, really only bypass the HIGH pressure switch with the clutch connector disconnected. The HIGH switch is there to prevent damage to all of the components from seals to lines to every piece of Freon hardware in the car. Bypassing with the A/C clutch disconnected will allow you to know if power is getting to the compressor clutch.

Finally, you can get FREE wiring and fusebox diagrams through Autozone.com. Just sign and register to their site and then you can print the documents for yourself.

Good luck with this repair and I hope my solution helps you.