I would get online and check some of the Acura discussion boards as there particular things related to different manufacturers/models/years that can happen if you just disconnect the wiring harnesses and pull the seats. If you want to be safe, disconnect the battery before you disconnect any wiring harnesses going to the seats as the car may take a break in the connection as a problem with the airbag seat sensor and throw a check light error if you don't ( BMWs do this...ask me how I know ! )
You've got trouble codes stored by they're most likely enhanced codes that your code reader can't read. Inexpensive code readers and only read generic trouble codes. Codes above P0800 are "enhanced" code that require a more professional scan tool to access.
Make sure one of the wires leading to either back wheel that controls the anti-social brakes wasn't disconnected while taking out/putting in the gas tank.
the TCS light will come on any time the check engine light comes on. Pull codes from the engines computer to see why the check engine light is on. Post the codes in the comments below and I'll do my best to assist you further. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa
You really do need to burp the radiator after replacing it, but that should make the A/C not work. I suspect there is a connector that came off of a pressure sensor on the A/C condenser. That condenser is right next to radiator.
If nothing happens when you turn the key, the starter doesn't even try to turn over, then you may have a faulty connection on a wire near the engine that loses connectivity when the insulation is earned up and softened. The connection is reestablished when the wire cools and firms up. You will not be able to visually see the damage as it is covered by insulation. To locate the short, test each wire with an omh meter while the engine is warm. Does the engine warm up and then die while running? Or will it not restart once you kill the ignition while the engine is warm? If it dies while running, then you have a faulty ground wire. Try Replacing the ground wires from the battery to the chassis and the one from the engine to the chassis. Will take about an hour of your time and somewhere around $10. Don't run all your ground from the same connection.
Is it the Navigation unit in the trunk that has gone bad? Or has your display unit given up? You can find plenty of Navigation units and display screens on ebay.
If it's just the display you can purchase a replacement screen. Search 2000 acura tl navigation screen or Navigation Display on ebay. you'll find plenty of them there. The real fun is removing your old one, to replace with the new one you bought to fix the problem.
To remove and replace the screen, you need to remove everything below it first. Search youtube videos and you'll find some very detailed instructional videos on how to do it. It's not for the faint of heart, or the mechanically inept...
I've done it, and YES.... you need to removed all of that stuff, in that exact order, in order to be able to get to the two lower bolts that hold the screen in place. There is no short cut.
Helpfull hint... before you install your new replacement screen, be sure and write down the serial number of the unit, which is printed on the back side of the assembly. You just might need it some time in the future (like when you need it to retrieve a code from Acura USA, to make your radio and nav unit work after disconnecting the battery)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=7PPyaN2fs30
If your screen is ok, but your nav unit is broken, you can buy one of those on eBay as well... a lot easier to install... open the trunk, remove two cables, and four screws, and replace.
might be someone took the whole arm off to paint em or whatever so while they are in the off position check to make sure they don't need a quick adjustment for example if they are flat/level with the windshield lower seal if they are than you got the wrong size blades if they are off a little than remove clip holding the windshield wiper arm and slide off of the cog and move it a couple teeth till its flat than check your work by turning the wipers on if they aren't perfect than keep adjusting till they are on both sides
poor compression, fuel pressure/volume, vacuum leak, dirty injectors, carbon build up on back of intake valves, ignition circuit problems either coils, plug boots, wiring, poor connections, even a damaged camshaft or bad cam/crank sensor.
it sounds as if the locking latch on the rear panel has been distorted with the heavy load, smother the lock on the trunk with grease and gently lower down and see where the grease leaves a mark , this way you can see where the latch on the rear panel should be , both the lock on the trunk and the latch on the rear panel have some adjustment so you will have to adjust both until they line up again
