20 Most Recent 1995 Plymouth Acclaim - Page 5 Questions & Answers

hook up scanner to ck codes, sounds like you might have a shift solenoid problem

Under the dash for the intermittent wipers. http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_FPrelay_1.jpg

an auto parts store may have a diagram that shows what you want and you can draw how it goes or go to the library and find a book that has your car it will also show you.

The inner joint is held to the shaft using a c clip. Put the shaft in a vise and using a hammer, strike the back of the inner joint with enough force to release the clip and the joint will seperate from the shaft. Replacing the entire axle assembly if funds are available is more economical due to age and possible wear of the joint. It will come with a warranty on the cv joints and boots

Hi, When you say shaking at certain speeds. Would that be say over 50mph and above. This could be two issues, either a poorly balanced wheel (any tyre shop can check the balance for you) If it is the rotors brake calliper issue - look at them (disks are easier than drums to see) do the disks look even and smooth surfaced. If you take the vehicle for a short run, check the feel of the wheel when stopped. Does one of them seem warmer than the others. I would honestly think you should get this professionally checked by any auto garage. Safety should always be paramount.

The head gasket itself is not much money. Any backyard mechanic can replace it. If the engine has an overhead cam , it's a bit more involved , however , I have purchased cars specifically because they needed a head gasket , and the owner was quoted big bucks to have the job done. I spent one afternoon doing the job and had a good car cheap.
A 92 acclaim is not worth a whole lot to begin with , so I would advertise it pretty cheap just to get rid of it. Ask around , maybe the son of a friend of a friend will fix it for you cheaply.
A repair shop will charge you several hundreds of dollars to do it , but I could do it for myself for about $60

check your injection system and your fuelpump and pre pump

You have a resistor between switch and motor, usually under glove box area, in the ducting. Find blower motor wiring and test for 12vdc to motor, obviously with key on and switch on high. If none, follow wires back to resistor connector. If wires go through firewall to engine area, look for resistor on engine side of firewall on passenger side. Usually 2'x3' block with 2 screws holding it in place with 1/4" hex head screws.

Have cooling system flushed properly which should improve circulation through heater core at idle, or low rpms. I usually flush heater core with C.L.R. (calcium, lime, rust remover) from hardware store before re-filling cooling system by removing hoses to core at firewall, and hook up to a small drill driven pump (also available at hardware store for approx$10). I use that to circulate it through core, and reverse hoses and pump it through in both directions, then let it sit in core overnight if at all possible, just for better cleaning. Drain it next day after circulating a little more, and re-fill cooling system. Be sure to leave rad cap off and heater turned on when re-filling coolant, and allow rad fan to come on and off 2 or 3 times before topping up and putting rd cap back on to be sure all air out of system. Should see improved heat at idle.

I could be that there is no antifreeze in the radiator, that the thermostat is bad, or that the heater core is bad. try checking the antifreeze first. sometimes the thermostats in those cars get stuck open due to corrosion on the thermostat housing.

Depending on the year and model, and the trans, it may be on the transmission as part of the neutral safety switch.

Hi Michael, The engine check light will display fault codes when connected to a scanner or a specified bridge is made onto the diagnostic socket. It is very unusual for the ECU to be defective (but not impossible). Have a scan carried out on the vehicle and the technician (You if you are) can determine what the problem is. Regards John

on the backside of the alternator there should be a large black/grey wire. check to see if there is battery voltage on that wire. If there is not than you have a blown fusible link that is inbetween that wire and the battery. If there is power there than check for power on the dark green with dark blue wire. There should be power anytime the engine is running. If there is no power than there is a problem with that wire in between the alternator and the ASD relay. Check those two out and let me know what you find. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

most likely stuck thermostat easy fix