20 Most Recent 1991 Plymouth Acclaim Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. There are some ideas here, but who is your mechanic swapping all these parts out? Is your antitheft light on, does it have one? The number 1 reason for no spark is that the antitheft system needs resetting or a sensor has failed. https://www.google.com/search?q=1991+plymouth+acclaim+no+spark A mobile auto electrician can connect a pro grade scan tool computer and diagnose in 30 minutes. https://www.google.com/search?q=mobile+auto+electrician+near+me ..

When pulleys are in alignment in both planes - check with a straight edge laid against the face of the pulley - the belt shouldn't come off. By alignment in both planes it means the pulley grooves should be exactly inline with each other and the shafts the pulleys are mounted on should be perfectly parallel with each other - in addition the belt grooves should be in good condition and each pulley should be round and unbuckled. In the old days it was necessary to adjust pulley alignment with shims and as many pulleys were pressed steel, a few were egg-shaped by small amounts and usually due to rough handling, some were like a buckled bicycle wheel. It is many years since those checks had to be made as part of building an engine though whenever a belt-related problem is encountered it is time to dust off the old methods. When the belt runs true it doesn't come off but there is another reason why a belt doesn't run true and that is belt chatter that is caused by a defective torsional vibration damper or crankshaft harmonic damper...

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Either water on the belt or it is worn out, or perhaps the bearings are getting tight and about to blow up.

if you mean the DRL module it think its under the left front fender in front of tire behind bumper along frame.

You got it right.
To determine which one is the right one:
1- Take ioff the thermostat, Run the engine without it. If water is coming out at the upper hose then pump is working.
2- Hook the upper hose back to the radiator without thermostat, run the engine and press the upper hose to see if coolant flowing throu it. If it is not then , the radiator gets clogged up.
3- At this point , you know what to do. One advice is that, get the new radiator if it is bad. Don't waste money to have it rebuilt. Good luck.

Check compression. Timing can be two teeth off and run. Get to three, it won't.

According to my findings your odometer is electrical and has a distance sensor down by the starter. Check the connections at that point for loose or corroded contacts. If you know how to use a VOM you can check the sensor also. But from the sound of it, being you've replaced the cluster before, if the connections are good at the sensor and its not working I'd check the fuses and then buy a new sensor.

YOU HAVE A BAD SPEEDO HEAD NEED TO REPLACE OR SEND TO HAVE FIX

im thinking this is what you wanted

the crank sensor is in the distributor.

the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank

Do me a favor and cycle the key to on, then off, then on, then off, then back to on,& leave it in the on position.(not start) Now watch & record any flashes of the check engine light. You will get a number of flashes, then a pause, then more flashes. for example: 3 flashes, pause, then 3 more, would be code 33. It will always be a 2 digit number. 2 flashes,pause then 5 flashes, is code 25. When you get 5 flashes, pause then 5 more, that's code 55 which means end of message. Get back to us with any codes that flash.

Pull the inner door panel off. Seee what's broken and head to a junk yard. May be able to find parts on line.