20 Most Recent 1993 Ford F250 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

May be the spark plugs and wires or the EGR valve......Hope this helps.

lay on the drivers side floor board and you will see there is a switch on the brake peddle... That is the brake light switch..
Now look next to it on the clutch peddel... that is the possative clutch diseguagement switch... You will want to adjust that so it is closer to the peddel...
Easy FixYa!

I would try filling the fuel filter up with diesel. If that doesnt do it dump a little gasoline down its throat.

If it actually wont crank,
" like the engine isnt being turned over by the starter" your battery's are hopefully dead.

You dont want to crank on a diesel starter for more than 30 seconds or you will burn them up. I was tought to try and start it for 30 seconds or so then let cool back down for 5 minutes.

Depending on how long you tried to start it you may have burnt the starter up but I doubt it. If its the starter I would guess its bound up. You can either tap on it with a hammer or take it out and clean it up and have it tested and put it back in or replace it. Good luck

On my 93 5speed 2hi is all the way forward. I always back up a little after disengaging 4wd. Some rigs you have to and some you dont, but I always do.

It stand for Exhaust Gas Recirculation. It helps reduce NOX emissions as well as reduces combustion chamber temps to help control/reduce PING. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

The battery to starter connection has power.the battery is ok.but there are many other possibilities related to battery and its other connections,the spark plugs,the fuel pump,the fuel itself,the sensors(o2 sensor,maf sensor)the valve(IAC valve,egr valve). Most probably the spark plug,the coil pack and crank shaft sensor.This 3 are not getting power to get the car start.

There are some possibilities which you will have to check in this case:--

1) First of all check the power and voltage to the battery. With meter it will show exact 12 volt if the battery is charged. If the voltage is less get the battery charged at local auto repair shop. If the battery is internally drained and not getting charged then its time to replace the battery.

2) When you crank the car do you see spark coming at the spark plug? If no then its time to check the spark plugs and coil pack. If the spark plugs are not worn out and looks new then its time to check coil pack. The spark plug gets power to spark from coil pack.

3) The other thing to check in this case is the starter solenoid of the car. If the battery is charged and you start the car then it gives power to the starter to start the car. But if starter is faulty or not connected properly then car will not start.

4) The other thing to check in this case is fuel in the car. If there is fuel in the car then check the blockages in the fuel pump if the fuel pump looks proper then check the fuel filter above the fuel pump.

5) If all the above possibilities mentioned above checked out OK/perfect then it's a electrical issue and the wiring's in the car needs to be checked. The car gets power from the battery to get started. so the wires from battery needs to be checked one by one.

Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Sounds like a fuel leak. Check the lines from the tank to the engine. Check the injectors. Check the fuel rails.

check passenger side under the dash right where your right foot would be on the kick panel should be a hole or opening in it fuel reset should be there

Your truck could have came with a 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L, 7.5L, so here's all of them, hope thos was very helpful.

It would be cheaper for you to go have somone replace it than for me to charge you to tell youhow to replace it!

Transmission Assembly REMOVAL & INSTALLATION C6

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. From in the engine compartment, remove the two upper converter housing-to-engine bolts.
3. Disconnect the neutral switch wire at the in-line connector.
4. Remove the bolt securing the fluid filler tube to the engine cylinder head.
5. Raise and support the truck on jackstands.
6. Place the drain pan under the transmission fluid pan. Starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Finally remove all of the pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. With fluid drained, install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.
7. Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the lower end of the converter housing.
8. Remove the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts. Place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.
9. With the wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt, turn the converter to gain access to the converter drain plug. Place a drain pan under the converter to catch the fluid and remove the plug. After the fluid has been drained, reinstall the plug.
10. On 2WD drive models, disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and slide shaft rearward from the transmission. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing to prevent fluid leakage.
11. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing.
12. Disconnect the downshift and manual linkage rods from the levers at the transmission.
13. Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the transmission.
14. Remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum diaphragm unit. Remove the vacuum line retaining clip.
15. Disconnect the cable from the terminal on the starter motor. Remove the three attaching bolts and remove the starter motor.
16. On 4WD drive models remove the transfer case.
17. Remove the two engine rear support and insulator assembly-to-attaching bolts.
18. Remove the two engine rear support and insulator assembly-to-extension housing attaching bolts.
19. Remove the six bolts securing the No. 2 crossmember to the frame side rails.
20. Raise the transmission with a transmission jack and remove both crossmembers.
21. Secure the transmission to the jack with the safety chain.
22. Remove the remaining converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts.
23. Move the transmission away from the engine. Lower the jack and remove the converter and transmission assembly from under the vehicle. To install:
    
24. Tighten the converter drain plug.
25. Position the converter on the transmission making sure the converter drive flats are fully engaged in the pump gear.
26. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission on the jack with the chain.
27. Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with their holes in the flywheel.
28. Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage the flywheel and the converter pilot. The converter must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.
29. Install the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts and tighten them to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm) for the diesel; 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) for gasoline engines.
30. Remove the transmission jack safety chain from around the transmission.
31. Position the No. 2 crossmember to the frame side rails. Install and tighten the attaching bolts.
32. Install transfer case on 4WD drive models.
33. Position the engine rear support and insulator assembly above the crossmember. Install the rear support and insulator assembly-to-extension housing mounting bolts and tighten the bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).
34. Lower the transmission and remove the jack.
35. Secure the engine rear support and insulator assembly to the crossmember with the attaching bolts and tighten them to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
36. The balance of installation is the reverse of removal.

Possible Torque convertor lock up problem, the lock up circuit could be bad, or your losing pump pressure...mainly to the lock up circuit inside the tranny. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

There is a recall that solved my electrical problems for the Spd/Od/Radio.

Power steering is totally different.

Your feuel problem sounds like a filter.

idle selnoid moter needs changed

no it doesnt thers no link between them

Any Auto-parts store can get them... try napa for example.

thats bad, check if the fuel pressure regulator is leaking at the vacuum hose. if so, replace the regulator and do an oil change asap. its running rich for some reason.

This component has essentially no adjustment... there is minor movement available from the mounting, but the TPS takes a value on power up and the that sets the baseline. From that point the system can measure position changes.

Just bolt it on, and plug in the wires.

This engine 'loves' glow plugs! One goes and the others try to handle the amps. Change them and you will have no probs! Other than that, I feel this is about the best diesel truck made!