How do you replace the water pump?
REMOVAL: 1) Remove the plastic belt routing diagram (there is a bolt underneath if I remember correctly)(yep, 8mm). 2) Using a 3/8 breaker bar or a ratchet, insert into the belt tensioner and push toward the back of the engine enough to release tension on the belt with one hand, and with the other hand, remove the belt from the water pump pulley. Then remove the bar/ratchet from the tensioner. 3) Remove the 4 bolts holding the shiny pulley onto the water pump (11mm). 3a) Large catchpan underneath, there's more coolant in there than it looks like. 4) With a ratchet and possibly a short extension, carefully remove the 5 bolts that hold the water pump onto the block (8mm). 5) Pry the water pump away from the block and clean both surfaces so they are free of gasket material. INSTALL: 1) Line up the gasket and *carefully* fit the new water pump onto the block. The holes are very easy to line up wrong because they are almost, but not quite, equally spaced from each other, so be VERY careful you have all 5 holes lined up right. 2) Screw each bolt in a few tuns to make sure they all go in smoothly. If you get any resistance (it will feel like it's crossthreaded), you have the holes wrong, and you need to rotate the water pump so the holes are lined up right. I can't stress this enough. 3) Torque all the bolts down (I can't recall the exact in/lbs - sorry) in a star pattern. 4) Mount the pulley onto the water pump shaft, torque bolts down (an air ratchet helps greatly here as the shaft will try to spin when the bolts start getting tight). 5) Release the tension as explained in step 2 at the top, put the belt back on the water pump pulley & double check to make sure it's on all the other pulleys while you're at it. 6) Bolt the plastic bolt routing diagram back onto the head. 7) Refill the resevoir and bleed the system of air. That's it! It's an hour or so job if you've never done it before. Note, if you're not using a gasket, get some water pump gasket sealer and make a gasket around the entire diameter of the mounting surface of the water pump. Remember to make little circles around the bolt holes also.
Posted on May 15, 2008
My 1998 Montana wouldn't start so I decided to check any computer codes first. When I ran my OBD2 scanner I got a "Link Error". So I tried
to get the scanner to read the codes again only to get the same thing.
Does any one know what causes a Link Error and how do I fix it.
I know my Montana has many electrical issues....more than what I'm willing to accept. But I'm willing to tackle it one at a time.
Need desperately some help here.
Blown power fuse for obd connecter. May be under hood or in interior fuse panel.
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
OBD2 Link Error comes on when scanner reads.
You may have the wrong code reader. Try another one and see what happens. It could also be a blown fuse, check all your fuses, in particular the one that controls the cigarette lighter.
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
what is the firing order and cylinder layout for 2000 pont. montatna 3.4
1-2-3-4-5-6
Check the visual aid below to confirm.
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
I just bought a 1998 Pontiac Trans Sport Montana a week ago. It had half a tank of gas when I bought it and the Fuel Gauge appeared to show the correct amount. I filled the Gas Tank for the first time when it got low and the Fuel Guage stayed pegged to Full. Still there after driving so long I should have been almost on E. I tried to disconnect the positive on the battery for a bit and reconnect. No luck. Any thoughts? Electrical? Sending Unit? What's the most painless way to determine the cause? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
When gauge is pegged at full, usually means a bad ground. Check wires at fuel tank, wiggle around, maybe one came off. The bad news is it is hard to get to without removing the tank. Sometimes you can reach arm in and get to them. Also check body ground at read of van.
Posted on Jul 17, 2009
I Just bought this used 2003 Pontiac Montana and on the test drive it beeped continually while driving in forward or reverse. It doesn't beep while in Park with engine on. It seems like the beeping noise is coming from the back. Started the next day and all is well.
My van did this aswell, you must have a power sliding door, when it is not latched properly this warning goes off but it won't say on your message center "door ajar". Stop and reopen the door and close it again no more bell. good luck.
Posted on Jan 13, 2010
The fuel gauge reads full, till the low fuel light comes on and then it will drop to empty. typically when it still has half a tank of gas. If I ignore it the next time I start it up it starts on full and stays there til it does it again, I estimate it has 4 gallons of fuel left at that time.
It needs a tank meter I'ts in the fuel tank
Posted on Aug 29, 2009
need to replace power steering pump. whats the step by step way to remove and reinstall
Remove the accessory drive belt from the pump
Remove the pressure hose from the pump
Remove the return hose from the pump
Tighten the power steering pump bolts to 34 N·m (25 lb ft).
Install the return hose to the pump.
Then just reverse what you did to remove.
Once you have it al back together fill the resevoir.
Do not over fill
Posted on Nov 07, 2009
acaban de componer mi camioneta (pontiac montana sv6 1999) porque los buzos hidraulicos estaban pegados y no pasaban aceite (le pusieron nuevos), al siguiente dia de uso empezo a fallar la aguja del velocimetro y empezo a hacer muy bruzcos los cambios, suena mucho la turbina y las revoluciones se suben o bajan drasticamente, aveces ya no respondia al acelerar. la lleve de regreso con el mecanico y solo le hecho un aditivo a la caja de velocidades y me dijo que el censor de posicion de la caja ya no sirve y es la causa de todo.
hola ayuda por favor. tengo una pontiac montana 97 y la falla es que en ocasiones da marcha pero no enciende a la primera. hace como que arranca pero se apaga. pero si acelero un poco al dar marcha si arranca y ya se mantiene normal. que sera. gracias. saludos
Posted on Mar 04, 2014
I have a vapor lock in the cooling system that I can't fix. I changed the thermistat because I was getting very little heat, that worked for a while, then April of 2010 I couldn't get any heat from the front or rear heater, it was like that all summer. The cooling system worked fine just no heat. In August I pulled the dash apart to check the controls and ducts and they worked fine. I wormed the engine to operating temperature and the heater core was cold, so I back flushed the system, and still no heat. I opened the bleeders to get the air out, I would drive a mile out and back and bleed the system again, and I did this 10 or 12 times and finally the heaters worked again. That lasted about a month and the temperature gauge fluctuated and the heaters quit working again. I bled the system and the heaters work for about a month and I had to bleed it again, now that the weather turned cold the heaters work intermitently and I have to bleed the system almost daily. What can I do to fix the problem.
alright here goes the van probably has the 3.1 or the 3.4 engine the engine is fited with a bleeder valve that when you change your coolant or change a thermostat you will have to bleed all the xtra air that is in the lines if you dont the antifreeze will not circulate and causes no heat and could also cause your engine to overheat tearing up your engine. make sure you find the bleeders and get all the air out and you should have heat. hope this helped
Posted on Jan 03, 2011
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