1995 buick riviera 3.8 supercharger . supercharger goin bad what do i have to do to remove supercharger and put a reguler 3.8 intake in place of?
you can not put a regular 3800 intake in place of the 3800 super charged engine,the compression ratio is lower than the regular 3800 engine.......!
Posted on Feb 16, 2009
looking for wiring diagram for 1995 buick riviera 2 dr w/ 3.8L supercharged
http://www.eautorepair.net/
you will get what you need for wiring
Posted on May 15, 2009
Noise is at idle goes away at about 1200 rpm. Replaced lower tensioner, idler pulley and both serp. belts. Noise does not seem to affect performance at all (good mpg, acceleration, etc.) but is very annoying (like a deisel motor). How much rotational play should there be on the crank pulley? What could this noise be?
remove the supercharger belt... check for play in the supercharger pulley... there is a plastic coupler that connects drive from the supercharger cone to the main body of the supercharger... these wear out ... it is a problem on both the series 1 (1995) and series 2 (96-99) supercharged 3800 engines
Posted on Jun 27, 2010
95 buick riviera supercharger fan belt diagram 3.8l
Sorry for the delayed response.
CLICK on the following LINK. It has the Belt Diagrams including the Supercharger you will need.
If you would: Before Clicking: Let me know if this helped you, or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!
Again my apologies...
Thanks.
http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1995/make/buick/model/riviera/1995_buick_riviera_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm
Posted on Mar 04, 2010
'95 Buick Riviera, Super Charger. After running this car for some time the car died out of nowhere. So, I replaced the Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump and car still won't start. What should I try next?
unplug the cam sensor behind the water pump pulley; see if it starts; if it does, shut off engine; replace both cam and crank sensors because crank sensors go out in these engines
Posted on Jul 04, 2010
the controls on the steering wheel stopped working and the radio doesnt work either
The controls on the steering wheel control the radio and the heater. I found that the wiring goes from the steering wheel to the radio then to the heater, so if the radio is out of commission then none of it will work. I discovered this on my Riviera after replacing the stock stereo with an aftermarket one to which the steering wheel controls were not attached.
Posted on Jun 27, 2010
HOW DO YOU PROGRAM A 1995 BUICK RIVIERA REMOTE KEY FOB?
how to program a 1995 Buick Riviera car remote
Posted on May 17, 2013
when you depress brake and try to move shifter out of park it remains stuck.
There is a "park lock cable" located in the steering column that releases the shifter after the ignition switch is turned to the on position. There is also a BTSI (brake trans shift interlock) solenoid that also releases the shifter when you press on the brake pedal. One of them is not functioning, are you able to turn the steering wheel after the car is started?
Posted on Nov 25, 2011
I have a 1995 Buick Riviera. When you shift into reverse after starting the car it makes a terrible clunk noise. It does not do it if you shift into drive. After shifting to drive you can then shift to reverse with out the clunk. It's only after initially starting the car and shifting into reverse. This is my 2nd riv and the first one did the same thing and I drove it for 100,000 miles like that, so it seems like it must be a common problem, but no one has been able to tell me what's wrong. I service the trans regularly, and fluid level is fine.
It has a worn or broken rear engine mount most of the torque is absorbed in the front mounts and hanger mounts except when it is shifted into reverse.
Posted on Dec 07, 2012
Security lockout reset /1995 Buick riviera
The security light is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM. (Theft Deterrent Module) The TDM is what tells your computer that the correct key is being used and that it is "OK" to allow the vehicle to start and run. These 3 parts must be in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending important signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, (normally due to a failing/broken part) the car goes into antitheft mode. The car misinterperates this and thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is NOT getting that signal from YOUR specific key. There is where the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. So basically, if that light is on, your system has some sort of failing part. This can start as an intermittent "no start", to your vehicle not running for days at a time, to the vehicle NEVER starting again. The problem is electrical and computer based, so don't count on an easy reset button, or the problem fixing itself. The hard part is isolating which part is the problem. You can spend a thousand dollars through a mechanic very easily. I have had great luck with bypassing the entire system. This way the problem will never return. It actually CAN'T ever return because it is eliminated. This can also be done yourself at a much cheaper cost. Read through this link very carefully. You'll find alot of information and pictures, along with ways to help you fix this.
http://www.diy-gm-security.com/
Posted on Apr 16, 2018
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