20 Most Recent 1995 GMC Suburban - Page 6 Questions & Answers

sounds like a glow plug problem

starter for sure.

Check the Shift linkage at the trans to see if it moves when you move the shifter in the cab. if its moving then check the electrical connections for the switch on the side of trans and the other large round one going to the trans. also recheck your torque converter to see if it is spinning when the engine is running.

some slots for fuses are for options that may or may not be installed on your vehicle as well as slots for spare fuses. hope this helps

check your ground conections

Sounds like the vacume switch is bad. Had the same problem with my 1995 burb and had to replace the switch.

A GM dealer can make a key for you

well thats surely a fuse problem,,

firstly open all doors and open all the locks
on the drivers door open and close the locks a few times to make sure it isnt a stuck lock

1.) pop the hood
2.) under the hood locate the fuse box (it has a covering over it and should be in a very accessible place)
3.) remove the cover and look under the cover you will see a diagram
4.) look for a fuse labled AC, ACC, ACCA or accessories
5.) pull that fuse it should be burnt, replace with a similar fuse..

It could be a couple of differant things its a 95 so it would have some ware in the shift mechanisum witch you look at the interlock switch. That is connected to the transmission through the shift cable on the drivers side of the transmission and moves every time you move the coloum shift lever. Or it could have something to do with the vehicle speed sensor mounted on the tail stock of the tranamission witch produces a referance voltage of about 5 volts AC for the VCM . Or it could just be a bad connection in that cirrcuit for depending if you have a digital speedometer and tach. I would check the interlock switch first the shifter is binding and its a ware part . Good luck

you should first begin by seeing if the correct amperage fuses are in the right places. sometimes the amperage that the certain connection should be are on the fuse panel. if not then look in your owners manual. if someone has put a larger amperage fuse in your rear air blower, then you have probably melted the wire that sends either power or ground to the unit. you will then have to find a wiring diagram for this and figure out where the wire runs and if its completely melted or just damaged. when you go to a higher amperage fuse, the fuse no longer will be the part that fails because it can now allow higher than normal amperages past the fuse and into the wire. the wire is rated for a certain amperage and if it gets past that amperage, it will begin to burn and in some cases start a fire. If this is your problem, then change the fuse back to normal and fix the damages and then if the fuse keeps blowing, your blower may be going bad

Best bet is to either go to a salvage yard or check out car-part.com and get the factory cd player It will drop right in the brackets are part of it. the cable you will need to get from the dealer or salvage yard also. It is all plug and play.

seat belt alarms. are you buckled up? if not, then you need to.to many people die like this everyday.thank you for choosing fixya.com

sounds like a bad ground somewhere. better bring it in.

N EED TO PULL DTC CODES FIRST / THAN START DIAG. TESTS

This could be many differant things but the first thing i would is the throttle cable see if its frayed any loose wires that have broken this will make it hang up. For this to happening the throttle plate must be open or else it wouldn't be getting enough air to allow the engine to run that fast so check to see if the throttle plate is fully closeing. If thats not closeing then you could check the throttle pisition sensor that is derictely connected to the throttle plate shaft it runs stright through the plate at 90 degrees to see if that is hanging up and restricting the plate from seating correctly

Check the linkage under the vehicle that goes from your shift lever to a rod that then goes to the transmission lever. Sometimes a coupling will come loose. Simple return it to its' original position and re-tighten. Let me know if this helps. Thanks.

These diagrams will help assist you and I have always had success using these diagrams to properly wire trailer connectors, and all of the connections should be soldered well and also use heat shrink tubing. Let me know if you require any further assistance.

Please consider bearing replacement as typically some looseness there causes play and seal leakage...

You may have one of two designs.

Normal is a flange plate with 4 screws., release this plate and you can see the bearing (barely) and the axle pulls out, sometimes with a slide hammer, because of rust and debris buildup..

The 2nd type is a c-lock. to release this type, you open up the rear inspection plate, at the center. Catch the fluid. and replace the gasket, usually. Inside the CARRIER are 4 spyder gears. two of these gears are on a common idler shaft. You take out a bolt that retains this idler shaft, and remove it. Then you can PUSH the axle inwards, and reveal the c-clip. it is the idler shaft that keeps the axles outward and the c-clips in their place.
This design often requires axle replacement as it is one of the bearing surfaces that fails...inspece carefully for bearing damage.