20 Most Recent 1995 GMC Suburban - Page 7 Questions & Answers

The ignition lock assembly contains two components: a lock cylinder to deter theft and an electrical portion that supplies power to electrical components such as the radio, electric windows, and windshield wipers. The electrical portion of the ignition switch also provides power to the starter motor to start the engine.
The ignition lock is an anti-theft device that prevents a vehicle from being driven unless the ignition key is in the ignition switch. If the ignition key is not in the ignition switch, it 's impossible to turn the steering wheel.
To replace the ignition switch cylinder lock, the trim panels around the steering wheel are removed. Then the tamper-proof hardware that attaches the ignition lock assembly to the steering column is removed. The ignition lock assembly is removed from the steering column, and the lock cylinder is replaced. The new ignition lock is reattached to the steering column, and the trim panels are replaced.make sure you dissconect battery first the 1997 had a recall on the ignition switch dont no if the 1995 had a recall if so they will replace for free

yes it definately sounds like a resistor, as far as the back not having hot heat, the back part should have its own heater core, you may want to check it out and see if its pluged.

No codes set? New distributor or used? Test the module in it?

Couple things come to mind.
1. EGR should not open at idle. The ECM has to meet a couple of requirements before it will tell it to open.

Pinging may be true problem. Anti Knock sensor tells the ECM the engine is knocking and retards the timing. If it is not advanced enough to begin with it will ****** it more and run without much power.

Did you disconnect the brown wire when you checked the timing? reattach it? Does the timing change at idle when you blip the throttle? It should as it wants to advance to go faster and the anti knock sensors tell it to settle down cause its a knocken.

All of this is moot if the throttle body and most of the engine controls are deleted.

First thing I would probably check is the coolant temperature sensor. If the engine thinks it is always cold, then it won't start fast hot and will give you some of what your are experiencing.
Another would be the throttle position sensor if the ECM thinks you are wanting more then you are asking for and you are trying to make up for it other places.

Both of these and all the other sensors can be looked at live with a scanner. That would be the fastest way through the maze of controls.

For example, '95 GM vans are OBD-1, you do not need a scanner to check codes, just jumper the A and B terminals on the ALDL and turn the ignition on and it will flash the MIL (service engine soon light) and tell you the codes that way.

Keep us updated.

its called a QUARTERLIGHT........

this light name is a misnomer. You have a fault and need to get a scan for trouble codes.

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5932051-check_engine_light_check. These are generic instructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.

Check plug gap/ spark plugs. Also check resistance on plug wires.

Match up the colors.

First off, never disconnect battery when vehicle is running. It could stress out the alternator and blow the diodes. Now you need to put a volt meter on the battery while the vehicle is running to see if the alternator is putting out 14 volts. If its putting out 12 or less, you have likely blown the alternator. Remove alternator and have tested free at Orielys or napa. I dont trust autozone.

It is likely you have a small leak in your heater core. This is a major repair, but if you want to do it yourself we may be able to send instructions. Please let us know.

check for loose battery cable or loose engine ground

Hi, the firing order is 18436572, and this is clockwise on the distributor. Good luck...Coop

you will need to have the fuel pressure checked. thoses suburbans are know to have fuel pump problems especially at the age of the truck.

yes

No diagram, but look for a spark-plug-like device with several wires coming out of the top located just in front of each catalytic converter in the exhaust system. Check with your auto parts dealer for the special socket that assists in replacing these items--usually not an expensive tool. It's a simple remove and replace procedure. A trip to Autozone or similar business to use their scanner to turn off the 'check engine' light when done. Hope this helps!

Check the flex lines that connect to the calipers. When you remove those from the old calipers and bend them, sometimes **** breaks loose inside and that will not let the fluid return to the master cylinder and will keep the brakes locked

a defective diode in the alternator can do this, the alternator will test good, also map lights can be left on and most don't see that, check that