1992 GMC Sierra K1500 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

possiable coil or fuel filter and or fuel pump

the key switch or the actual switch ? do you mean the key? for the key u must dismantle the column. for the switch u must lower the column by removing the two bolts holding the column up and the switch is lower on the column next to the high beam switchwitch is held on by two 8mm bolts and two plugs

the wires come out above the brake pedal assembly. the keyless entry module mounts here also you have to remove the pedal assembly to get to this area.

hope it helps.

Remove the distributor cap while cranking, see if the rotor turn. If not then the distributor gear is worn (need to replace the gear). The ignition module could defect. Need to check the ignition module for power and ground and a bypass signal at the module. Hope it helps.

If the PCM receives a signal that the coolant sensor is cold then the idle will be high. IAC valve could be stuck open and not retracting. Check signal at 4 wires(open circuit). If ok change the IAC valve. Warning; don't try to retract the pintle by hand. Hope it helps.

1- Tune-up (spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, rotor, and cap. 2- Quality of the gas (low flash point) Hope it helps.

Check Battery voltage Battery voltage at the starter solenoid. Battery voltage at Purple wire at the starter solenoid ***Remove both grounds wire and clean it with a file.***

Well my only help would be to think it out this way. Test the wire/switch. That being said I do not access to a diagram but a simple tester should do this with Key on as it should only be hot when key is on. You just have to work backwards from the Switch i.e. when does it blow ? If it blows immediately it possible the in the hot wire to the switch or the switch itself. If it blows when the switch is activated it may be the Switch it self or the line through to the light. That is how I'd look at it. Hope I helped.

Regrettably no you need to expose the timing system to check for miss alignment of timing marks also to find out why it jumped and to replace the faulty/worn parts

Pick up coil inside the distributor . Did you test that ? B+ voltage to module , coil ? good ground ?

it is possible to have trash in the lines with the filter off turn the ignition on a few times to pump out the line

Do basic testing. When in failed mode, check for spark. I suspect ignition module or coil, as these parts fail when hot and when you turn off running engine it gets hotter before it cools. Hard to diagnose because when you remove module to test, by the time you get to a parts store to test it's really cool again. Make them run test three times and tap with a pencil as you test.

It could be the pump, but most times its the relay. Easy enough to check the relay by swapping it with another or a new one.

Sutting hood and die, sounds to me like you have a loose wire somewhere up front which reacted to the hood created viabration. A critical wire. A very close inspection in the dark with a new led flashlight may help you find a loose or bad connection. Double check the battery connections, the water (distilled) in the battery. The charging system. If you can get to an auto parts store they may check your charging system and the battery. And check the error codes, which may point to the loose connection. If there is corrosion on the battery terminals, you need to scrape to bright metal (lead). Electrical connections that are corroded need to be cleaned an scraped to bright metal, usually brass. Bad connections cause unusual kinds of behavior.

Not with the right tools by the Oil Pressure Sending unit (AKA OPS) tool that will fit in there you may have to contort your body a little.

Sounds like your controller is bad. http://www.resistorguide.com/applications/blower-resistor/ <Read this info. http://www.ebay.com/itm/88-94-GMC-CHEVY-TRUCK-CLIMATE-HEATER-CONTROL-93-92-max-SILVERADO-SUBURBAN-SIERRA-/381127684906

Sounds to me that you have a bad dimmer switch.

What about the clutch sound. I take it your fan clutch does not relax which means it is frozen. Try to spin it if it is hard to spin then it is frozen. Which in that mode your truck will not get hot but it is over working your engine. Since it does not relax. Good luck.

Do you have fuel, is your fuel pump working. If you do not have any spark at all, have you been able to check to see if you have power to your distributor. If so and you do have some then it might be either your ignition coil, pick up coil or your ignition control module. Your pick up coil in in your distributor under the plate. The coil is on top of the distributor cap. The ignition module is right under the cap where all your distributor wires connect to. Some part houses can test your ignition module and let you know if good or bad. Good luck.