1995 Nissan Maxima - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Starter/solenoid faulty. Faulty starter enable relay (when appicable). No power to the starter from the ignition switch.
Put a test light to the small termial/wire of the starter and try and start it. If the light comes on then the starter or solenoid is bad (recommend replacing as a unit. Both the starter and its solenoid get the same anount of use and the same amount or wear).
If there is no light then start tracing back.
You can get a free electrical diagram from Autozone.com in the repair section. This should help you trace wires back and see what they are for (power, ground, etc.) and know what to check for.

On some cars when you disconnect the battery for whatever reason certain electrical areas will not be restored to operation after the battery is reconnected. You need what they refer to as a radio code to restore radio and other circuits to operation. The code should be in car manual. If not contact the dealer for the radio code for your car.

diesel or petrol? Is the engine worn....has it done lots of miles? If there is black smoke coming out of the rear and it is diesel add a couple of infector cleaners to hald a tank of fuel and go out for a 50 mile high revving ride. Make sure your cambelt is ok before you try that one. In a petrol vehicle do the same. If theengine is not a very high mileage one and has been well cared for it might be that the vehicle only needs a tune up to pass emissions. This work should be done by a good and experienced mechanic who has a knowledge of nissan, they will probably know the ins and outs of the engine and the ancilleries GOOD LUCK

If you don"t have the remote and alarm is going off , there are a few ways to get the alarm off . First make sure all doors are closed and hood and trunk as well go to the drivers door and use your key to lock and unlock the car the alarm should disarm if it does not work do the same on passenger door or trunk one should disarm it . All the locks have magnetic switches on them , they do break so if it doesn't work on one lock it should work on one of the others unless all are broke . Hope this helps you .

The problem might be like this, not the same car but the same problem.

Is it a automatic or a stick shift transmission?

Hi Sarah: Chances are that you still have the clutch problem that you started with. Filling the master cylinder was good, now you have to find out why it was empty and where it went. You'll need to make sure there is no air trapped in the lines so you'll have to bleed the slave cylinder. If the slave cylinder seal has failed, it will have a lot of fluid visible so its fairly obvious. Remove and replace, bleed lines, check fluid level, should be OK.

Is there a check engine light on? Does it run well at other speeds? A stall at idle could be from a low idle ( the idle may have to be relearned using a shop computer). You may have a vacuum leak on a hose leaning out the motor and causing a stall. I would scan test the check engine for codes if it is on and possibly give yu a basis to start

I'm not sure if this will help, but this: www.wonderhowto.com
has a video how to repair a vehicle ac and cooling system.
http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to/video/how-to-repair-a-vehicle-s-ac-and-cooling-system-102457/

is the inner cv joint now dislocated???

There is no separate fuse for the clock. Most things are either included under the instrument cluster or accessories fuse.

You have to take the steering off the mounting bolts inside the dash. It will be obvious after you do. Once you remove the bolts holding it... a hammer tap may be necessary.

You have a vacuum leak somewhere. Check the diagram under the hood and go through every line carefully until you find it. Could also be the throttle cable.

There are times when you are working on one fault another totally unrelated fault occurs...Without knowing anymore than what you have expressed It sounds like the PCV valve is plugged or in replacing the injectors you accidentally disconnected the pcv vacuum line...saailer I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT
Application In. (mm)
Intake .010-.013 (.26-.34)
Exhaust .011-.015 (.29-.37)

It could be a servo malfunction or perhaps a sensor controlling the servo that engages the next clutch for the second gear. But for something like this to fail it has to be really a rare case, as auto transmissions are mean to take all the brunt of engine and drive-train workload and for a transmission to fail is also a rare case. Auto transmission run by a torque converter and gears are overall lubricated by the automatic transmission fluid. For a transmission to fail, it is either neglected or trashed, e.g. never had a service, never had a fluid change, in other words - checked the fluid level. And then there is the trashing, e.g. trashed without service, low in fluid and hard manual change (revving the engine and then slam it into 'Drive' to do wheelies). The first thing you need to do it check the fluid level, what colour is it, dark wine colour is very old (and dirty), if it is light colour fluid (like the same colour as the new fluid in a container), then the fluid is okay, we move to the next step. Many transmissions have filters inside the housing and these trap small particles of clutch and metal fragments. If you're a mechanic you can start here. if you're not, don't bother, as transmission work is not for you. Let's assume you know enough about mechanical work and have a set of sockets, a wrench and a torque wrench (a specialized tool to tighten bolts and nuts to the correct tension). So, work to transmissions are to be done when cold, that is when the car hasn't been running on the road, so the fluid is not hot. Jack the car, place supporting stands or drive it on portable ramps. Some transmissions have a draining plug. If so, drain the fluid in a white 6 litre container (white so that you can see the colour of the fluid and whether there are fragments of clutch material at the bottom of the container, later. Do not do anything else unless you can see these symptoms: fluid has burned smell, fluid has a dark wine colour, and when feeling the fluid between the fingers it feels sticky rather than smooth. Now, use another white container and pour the fluid into it, noting the colour of the fluid leaving the first container. If it is still darker and you can hardly see the lip of the first container through the fluid being poured into the second container then that fluid had never been changed or it is a result of being fouled by hard flooring and changing gears while the engine is at high revs. Either way this is the result of the burned smell. If you noticed any of these, it's time to remove the transmission pan, Remove all bolts, then carefully remove the pan flat to avoid spilling the remnant fluid on you and also to avoid disturbing the sediments at the bottom of the pan. Once removed, pour whatever fluid is left in the pan in a clean white container and inspect the pan for sediments, broken clutch material and small metallic grains or fragments and the smell. This will indicate that the transmission will have to have a major overhaul but it's not necessary because this also indicates that to neglect a transmission would mean to destroy it and eventually it will be destroyed by the way you drive. What you need to do now is to see if there are any signs of a filter attached under the transmission. remove it and clean with mineral turps, solvent or kerosene. Allow to drain and when dry dip it into a transmission fluid before replacing it back on the transmission. Add a new pan (aka sump) gasket and replace the bolts, tighten by hand, then using a suitable socket and a hand wrench tighten them just so they seat *******, then use the torque wrench, set it to 20 ft lb and start tightening each bolt in a criss-cross fashion - one bolt here then the other bolt across the pan, then go back to the second bolt where you tightened the first and tighten that one, then go back to the second bolt and tighten the one next to the second bolt and so on, eventually reaching the fist bolt. Be sure you have a lot of concentration of which bolt you have to tighten next and always remember to re-set the pin on the torque wrench to make it click when the set tension has reached. Over tightening the pan or sump will damage it. So, stay focused on the tightening sequence. if unsure and you might lose track, then number them with a texta or chalk. Then set the torque wrench to (I think 30 ft lb) and tighten each bolt, starting from the first bolt and repeat the same sequence until all the bolts are tightened. Note that I am only guessing the torque of 30 ft lb for the type of bolts I think your transmission have, but the bolts could be bigger or smaller, so, to be sure, you should refer this subject to a mechanic, or search online for bolt tightening charts. Refill the transmission then run the engine and check the fluid level. Top it up to the required level if necessary. Then do several slow forward - reverse changes to allow the fluid to disperse into critical components, valves, servos, etc., then again check the fluid level and road test the car. Hopefully it should change gears. if not, then it may be too late to save your day and a major overhaul is necessary. If not, a change-over transmission would be cheaper. See how you will do with these home repairs first. Also, ask about what criss-crossing bolt tightening sequence means before you engage in repairs. Cheers. Photo is a standard torque wrench for most mechanical work.

775 Cranking amps

In rare cases your 1995 Maxima might use OBD2 but it is probably a OBD1. You could try an OBD1 reader but unfortunately OBD1 was not anywhere as useful for diagnostics as the OBD2. SOLVED What scan tool do need 95 Nissan Maxima

I'm not familiar with your car specifically but most are accessed from inside the trunk, under the mat/carpet. Some have to be removed by removing a screw or two on the light housing.

You need to loosen the tensioner, it's the wheel with a bolt on top.