20 Most Recent 2002 Chevrolet Impala - Page 6 Questions & Answers

After looking at the service info for the HVAC system for your vehicle , it sounds like your system lost vacuum somewhere ! The position of the mode doors determine where the air comes out at . The doors have vacuum controlled actuators , on the back of the mode switch vacuum lines are connected to it ! To check for vacuum at the switch you'll need to take HVAC control module out of the dash ! There is also a vacuum reservoir or tank under the dash near the HVAC assembly. You could look under the hood in the engine compartment an look for a disconnected vacuum hose from the engine intake manifold ! Step Action Yes No 1

1. Start the engine.
2. Turn the blower motor fan ON and select an air outlet mode.

Does air flow out of the selected HVAC outlet ducts? Go to Step 3 yes Go to Step 2 no 2 Did the customer concern mention that the air discharges out the correct ducts at first, but then changes during higher engine RPM? Go to Step 7 yes Go to Step 3 no 3 With the engine running, cycle the HVAC controls through all the modes. Does the air come out of the selected outlet ducts? Go to Step 18 yes Go to Step 4 no 4 With the engine running, take a vacuum reading at the manifold vacuum port that supplies vacuum to the HVAC control vacuum valve. Is there engine vacuum? Go to Step 6 yes Go to Step 5 no 5 Repair the no vacuum condition. Is the repair complete? Go to Step 18 yes -- 6 Take a vacuum reading at the vacuum supply line at the HVAC control vacuum valve. Is the vacuum reading the same as the engine vacuum? Go to Step 11 Go to Step 8 7

1. Disconnect the vacuum supply line from the HVAC control vacuum valve.
2. With the vacuum gauge connected to the vacuum supply line, re-start the engine and turn the engine OFF.

Does the A/C system lose vacuum after turning OFF the engine? Go to Step 8 Go to Step 11 8 Inspect for leaking or collapsed vacuum lines between the engine manifold vacuum port and the HVAC control vacuum valve. Are the vacuum lines leaking? Go to Step 9 Go to Step 10 9 Repair or replace the collapsed or leaking vacuum line. Is the repair complete? Go to Step 18 -- 10 Replace the vacuum reservoir tank. Refer to Vacuum Tank Replacement . Is the repair complete? Go to Step 18 -- 11 Using an external vacuum source, apply vacuum to the appropriate vacuum line at the HVAC control vacuum valve connector. Refer to HVAC Vacuum Schematics . Does the actuator retract? Go to Step 17 Go to Step 12 12 Inspect for leaking or collapsed vacuum lines between the actuator and the HVAC control vacuum valve connector. Are the vacuum lines leaking? Go to Step 9 Go to Step 13 13

1. Disconnect the vacuum line from the actuator.
2. Apply an external vacuum source to the actuator.

Did the actuator retract? Go to Step 14 Go to Step 16 14 With the actuator disconnected, inspect the door for binding. Does the door move freely? Go to Step 16 Go to Step 15 15 Repair the binding door. Refer to the appropriate repair. ?€¢ Defroster Door Replacement

?€¢ Mode Door Replacement

?€¢ Recirculation Door Replacement

Is the repair complete? Go to Step 18 -- 16 Replace the vacuum actuator. Refer to the appropriate repair. ?€¢ Defroster Valve Actuator Replacement

?€¢ Mode Actuator Replacement

?€¢ Recirculation Actuator Replacement

Is the repair complete? Go to Step 18 -- 17 Replace the HVAC control vacuum valve. Refer to HVAC Control Vacuum Valve Replacement . Is the repair complete? Go to Step 18 -- 18 Cycle the HVAC controls through all modes to verify proper operation. Did you correct the condition? System OK -- Hope this helps an good luck !

are you asking where is the fuel pressure regulator , or what regulates the gas/throttle ? the fuel pressure regulator is on the end of the fuel injector rail (fuel hose connects to it ) caution HIGh fuel pressure there even with key off on a 02 there still is a throttle cable that connects throttle body to gas pedal todays model doesn't have that anymore ,it s all wires now

Things to check:

1. Fuse;
2. Operation of actuator switch;
3. Connections to cruise control unit under hood;
4. Brake pedal switch (common problem)

Abs and traction control work with each other. You have a fault in one of the system need to get scanned.The a/c have a blockage in system or maybe a leak. The gas mileage probably has to do with abs/traction control

You have 2 faults here. Get a good local mechanic to run through a few basic tests, cylinder compression, oil in the water, water in the oil. Rough running. My guess the head gasket has gone because white smoke is usually water in the engine. Your AC is down to a further investigation.

No, the car is rated to tow a maximum of 1000 lbs unbraked, so you are way off. You will need a heavier and more powerful vehicle, something like a Dodge Durango. Don't forget to factor in the weight of passengers and any other luggage.

Friend, If it is the temperature light ( not the check engine light) you may wish to check and see if the engine is actually hot. (Be advisesd. An overheated engine is really serious! ) With the engine not running and cold, and the car level, take off the radiator cap very slowly to relieve the pressure, be certain the radiator is full, and then start the car. Stand back in case the radiator blows antifreeze out. Now start he car, and with the engine running, and when the temperature light is on, very carefully feel or smell the radiator and top radiator hose. If these are not hot, you problem may be a stuck thermostat. If the thermostat is stuck, you should sense the heat by smelling and listening to the motor. If you have an overheating issue, please refrain from driving the car until it is fixed, or you could totally destroy the motor. Also, there are 2 electric blower fans behind your radiator. One is for engine temperature, one is for the air conditioning circuit. If the temperature light comes on, one of the blower fans should be running. If neither is, that may be your problem. Be sure to leave your heater/air conditioner off during this test. The most common problem is a bad temperature sensor for the fan, then a bad fan itself. After that, a stuck thermostat. Blessings on your figuring this out.

one on each exhaust heading to the muffler, usually... v-8 has two, v-6 usually has two, 4 cyl one

I believe that info is in your owners manual, but I think that one is in the inside drivers door panel.

fuel level or fuel economy? As in do you have a problem with the fuel gage not working, or a poor fuel economy problem?

Have the battery tested if no good replace. Check for power at the starter cable and then while someone holds the key in the crank position check for power at the trigger wire of the starter. If you have power but no crank or click then you may have a bid starter or the engine is seized. If no power on the tarter little wire which comes from the ignition switch make sure you fuses and relay is good and that your ignition switch is working. If the battery tests good have your alternator checked as well.

Have the battery tested if no good replace. Check for power at the starter cable and then while someone holds the key in the crank position check for power at the trigger wire of the starter. If you have power but no crank or click then you may have a bid starter or the engine is seized. If no power on the tarter little wire which comes from the ignition switch make sure you fuses and relay is good and that your ignition switch is working. If the battery tests good have your alternator checked as well. The cluster may act erratic if battery is low or bad.

if its not your passlock system then you should get a fuel pump pressure test done on the vehicle

Most likely the fuel level sendor in the tank. It is attached to the fuel pump assembly. I would reccomend replacing the fuel pump with sender and fuel filter. Since you have to drop the tank might as well replace everything while u are there

yes the gauge outside needs replaced. i am sorry i do not know the exact location on your vehicle. autozone can show you since you need the part anyways

because its not the sensor. its the plug for the sensor .the wires.or it is the cataletic converter/exhaust system i just replaced my exhaust on my 07 chevy malibu same o2 sensor issue p0420 or something like that ?! replace the converter and youll be fine i still have my old sensors in there that gave me the code :) there not saying there bad but that the cat is bad.

You should have a primary and secondary O2 sensor, upstream and downstream. Pre-Catalytic converter and Post-Catalytic converter. Which one did you replace?

ok when push the lever forward the high beams don't stay on ? then that lever should be replaced cause that's ur dimmer switch to switch between high/low beam lights if the lever is bad can surge you headlight and blow the headlights, have you check headlight bulbs its rare but it has happened that both blow at the same time

Couple of things, the fuel pressure held before with the old regulator but now it doesn't. Are you sure you got the tiny o-ring out when you changed it and installed it on the new one? Is there any fuel in the vacuum line to the regulator? Does the white exhaust smell like fuel or coolant burning?

It could be the fuel pressure reg.