20 Most Recent 1997 Oldsmobile Regency - Page 2 Questions & Answers

inside the gas tank

More likely an issue with the switch itself or a connector, also check condition of wire harness, look for abraision wherever the harness crosses a dash support.

Your problem may be one of the following:
First check or just replace the fuel filter. Usually located under the car in front of the rear axle, drivers side.

Next, Fuel pump relay is worn out. Should be under hood , passenger side power distribution box. You may have to remove the metal strap to open cover.
Next, the fuel pump may be worn out. Usually they just stop working (running).
Next, check the fuel pressure regulator. Usually located on the front fuel rail, drivers side.
Is the vacuum line attached? Not leaking or rotted?
Also, do you smell a strong fuel odor when it won't start? May be one or more stuck-open injectors, or the coil pack is bad.
Checking these in the order listed will more than likely fix your problem.

It could be a fuel issue. How old is the fuel filter? Can you hear the pump run for a few seconds when you turn the key on? Try turning the key to ON without trying to start engine three times waiting for the pump to stop running each time. Then try to start the engine. If it starts, Its a form of Vapor lock caused by the extreme heat we have had lately.

If none of this works, try a new fuel filter first. From there have someone check the fuel pressure regulator and then the pump. If you are in need of a new pump, take my word for it and spend the money to get one from GM, and not from your favorite parts store. Most parts store parts are made in China and they are JUNK. Have you hooked a scanner to the computer and checked the oxygen sensor(s)? If they are bad they could lean out the engine.Also, a restricted exhaust system can lower engine performance. If you dont know old the plugs and wires are, replace them. With plug wires, its the age not the miles. How old is the coil pack? It could be "breaking down" at higher rpm's. Does your engine have a cam sensor?

the regasing should be done by a specialist who can check for leaks with a detect dye,ensure that the system has the right amount of oil in it and regas to pressure then test for cooling effectiveness.Supply the code and I can inform you of what it is for.May be part of the reason why it surges.Hope this helps.get back to me with your findings.

there should be a fuse for it more than likely it will be in the fuse box under the hood of the car because its a large fuse. if you explain your problem i may be able to help you further?

I did advise the customer that the grinding noise that he is hearing is due to the right wheel assembly being bad, that the bearing had gone out. I did advise the customer of how to check the wheel assembly to see if the bearing was in fact going out, and I did advise of how to remove the unit and that he should replace the transmission seals for each CV axle. I did advise of how to reinstall the wheel unit and advised that he would need to have the front end aligned as well.

If your water pump is leaking, that is the first sign of a bad water pump. This means that you will have to replace the water pump.

blown head gasket or crack in block or intake manifold.
if you have a plastic intake it is bad and has to be replaced.

power steering pump is located on the front of your engine where your serpentine belt is ,the belt runs the alternator,water pump.air conditioner compressor, and your ( power steering pump), most vehichles are equipped with yellow caps that are clearly marked as to what they are.remove the cap and it should have a small dip stick to verify maximum and minnmum amount of fluid.

there are two different flashers for this they may both be bad turn on flash and listen for the clicking noise if it doesnt and just the light comes on replace also check to make sure all your bulbs are good this can also cause this

check fuses if they are still good change the blower motor instructions below not hard to do!

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Disconnect the blower motor lead connector from the wiring harness connector.

Remove the blower motor cooling tube from the blower motor.

Remove the four retaining screws.

Turn the motor and the wheel assembly slightly to the right so that the bottom edge of the mounting plate follows the contour of the wheel well splash panel.

Lift up on the blower and remove it from the blower housing.

Installation the new blower motor by reversing the removal steps.

Connect the negative battery cable.

you have a vacum leak thats not leting a vent door open.this is tricky.it could be a cracked or loose hose or a broken vacum actuator that contols the door.removing the glove box is probable and removal of part of the duct work is to.if u want to try this yourself e-mail me at [email protected]

Oil filters are sometimes buried behind the engine where you can't get to them, if it isn't right there in front of you, it is either behind the engine, or up front on the bottom with a skid pan hiding it. The power steering fluid and the brake fluid reservoirs are up top, in front of the driver between the engine and the fender, they should be clearly marked, so you don't put coolant in there, or motor oil. Check it out.

They would be 6-3 / 2-5 / 4-1 and here is a firing order diagram to help assist you, and let me know if you need any help to understand this diagram, or if you require any further assistance.

PassKey I, and II: Similar to the VATS system, these vehicles also used a pellet key. You can identify this system by looking at the key. It has a black resistor pellet with a thin metal edge running along the key. The system enables the starter, but shuts down the injectors after initial startup. So the vehicle would start, then die. This system has a “relearn” feature. It was used on these vehicles

Oldsmobile Models:
Cutlass Supreme 94-97
Aurora 95-00
Regency/88 91-99
Toronado 90-93
Pontiac
Firebird 89-01
Grand Prix 94-96
Bonneville 92-99

PassKey I and II System Diagnostics: There are 15 different key codes. Measure the resistance of the key pellet by connecting an ohmmeter to each side of the key pellet. Once you find the resistance value, remove the lower dash panels and locate two small wires (both white) that run down the base of the steering column. Disconnect the electrical connector where those wires terminate. Then connect an ohmmeter to that electrical connector and insert the key. The reading you get at the end of the two white wires should match the resistance value you got from the key. Next, turn the key. The value on your meter should NOT change or drop out. If it does, you will have to replace the key cylinder. It is COMMON for the wires to break from the key cylinder.

If you have the PassKey system and the engine cranks, runs, and quits AND the THEFT light is on (for about 5 seconds), here are the tests you should perform:

1) Disconnect the electrical connector at the deterrent module. Then turn the ignition switch to RUN while you test the voltage between the dark blue wire in the theft deterrent electrical connector (the one you just disconnected) and a ground point. You should see 5 volts. If you don't get that voltage, check for an open or short between the dark blue wire and the PCM that supplies the voltage to the module.

If you DO get the 5 volts, turn the ignition off and reconnect the electrical connector. Pierce the insulation on the same wire (with a pin) or back-probe the wire in the connector. Turn the ignition to RUN. The voltage should now read 2.5 volts. If not, replace the theft module. THAT assumes you have already conducted the key pellet test (explained above) and that it passes the test. If you see 2.5 volts and the vehicle still won't stay running, check the fuel pump relay.

Here's how it works, The lock cylinder reads the resistance of the pellet in the key and transmits that data to the theft module. Meanwhile, the PCM provides 5 volts on the dark blue wire. When the theft module determines that the proper key has been inserted, it partially grounds the voltage on the dark blue wire. The PCM initially provides fuel injector pulse, but if it doesn't sees a voltage drop on that dark blue wire, it cuts off the fuel injectors. That's why you get a crank, start, engine shut down.

So, if the vehicle starts and then dies, AND THE THEFT LIGHT FLASHES, the module is not getting the proper signal from the lock cylinder or the module is bad.

The module, generally it is located on the right side of the fuse panel behind the glove box, above the ECM.

Hope helps.

Could be a bad injector on # 4 cylinder.

I think you are have what is called torque converter shutter. Go to an O'reillys or napa and ask for lubegard in the red bottle. Put it in and drive it for a couple of weeks. Hopefully it will help.

maybe you have got vapour-lock.