20 Most Recent 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Have you tried resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes or thereabouts?

Misfires are set because one of three things is wrong or missing: spark, gas, or compression. One of those is compromised to set a misfire. You just have to isolate the problem. It sounds like your engine is missing pretty consistently. I would start with a fuel pressure test (checking the fuel pump and fuel filter). If pressure is correct, check for any air leaks around the intake manifold-the wrong fuel/air mixture in the cylinders can cause misfires. You indicate it hesitates more after warmed up. You might try comparing the spark from each cylinder after the engine has reached normal operating temperature. It is a tedious process pulling each plug wire off the plug and then have someone crank the engine over. But you might notice a weaker spark from one or more? You would want to see a strong blue spark from each plug wire. Then you could be pretty sure the ignition system for spark is okay. If you still haven't found it, it is time to do a compression test of the engine. You would expect all cylinders to have pretty even and balanced compression. That means full power and no hesitation, no missing. The ECU sets a misfire code because it senses the lag in crankshaft rotation-one or more cylinders is not producing the expected power output. So there's a map for you: gas, spark, or compression- which one is your engine missing.

have code read if its the cat again check and feel exhaust system and look smell and feel the exhaust it it feels restricted and or smells like sulfur rotten eggs you more than likely have a cat converter problem and that your code will come back again with the same reading

Hi Sue I suggest you check the bulbs. Good luck

It means the traction control is not working. It's usually because a wheel speed sensor is bad. Your ABS brakes are also not working well. You should go to the dealer where they can scan the vehicle with their Mutt II factory scan tool. That will take the guess work out of which wheel speed sensor is bad or failing intermittently.

Check coolant level,could be air lock..

that code is for the MAF sensor , firstly clear the code and test drive and see if there is any improvement , if not then change the MAF sensor located on the inlet manifold

It is a MAS Airflow Sensor code. The sensor is either disconnected, damaged or the wiring to it is damaged. If you have installed custom/performance intake then that would be your issue, if not then you need to check the MAS Airflow sensor and wiring.

If there is no refrigerant in the system, the safety switch will not provide power to the compressor clutch. CHECK YOUR REFRIGERANT LEVEL, repair any leaks, evacuate and recharge the system, making sure to use proper refrigerant and refrigerant oil.

The control panel for the heater and A/C must be removed. Suggest you get Chilton's manual from the library. It will take you through step by step with pictures. To summarize: 1) Remove trim panel covering radio and heater controls. 2) Remove radio. 3) Disconnect the two heater control cables from the control panel. The trick to removing the cables is to compress the "claw" spring holding the cable by pressing a screwdriver from the underside of the control panel to release each cable.4) Remove control panel. Take to a workbench. From the backside of the control panel at the top, notice two large holes through which you can access the V2 Toshiba bulb holders. Turn them a quarter turn to remove them and the bulbs. The bulb is a common #74 bulb.

could be both could be a broken timing belt could be lots of reasons the real answer is to run the fault codes and save time and money

The recommended oil is 5w-30.

Neutral safety switch would be a good guess! Don't know where it is on your 2001 eclipse but I could find out? they are testable.....dave

Snug. Two types I have seen. One is you have to crimp the nut into the slot. The other is you have to add locktite to the threads.

After 2000 very few cars were made with distributors. The spark timing is picked up by a crank angle sensor, pulses are sent to the on board computer which in turn fires the relevant ignition coils. If you are looking for spark problems, start with the crank angle sensor which is mounted on the bell housing to pick up the signals from the flywheel - these are the most likely problem points.

If it is an automatic, there may be a kick down cable that has broken or out of adjustment. Also I have seen time after time floor mats and carpets preventing pedal from traveling its full potential So I would check the easy ones first.

check transmission oil level. run the fault codes change the oil if it is not cherry red.

You may have a faulty MECHANICAL Ignition switch, which is not the lock cylinder ( where you put the key ) . The Mech. switch is located on top iof the steering column, under the dash. Remove the plastic shield inder the column and the4 2 bolts holding the steering column to the dash. It will then come down until the steering wheel rests on the seat. You will see a rectangular box mounted on top, with a metal rod going up to the steering wheel and a wire harness attached. The metal rod activates the start cycle. Turn the key on to run and manually move that arm toward the firewall to start,watching for the amount of travel it completes. Now turn the key, and see if it travels the same amount. If not, you'll need to DISCONNECT THE BATTERY before removing switch, being careful not to bend or tweak that rod. Take the switch to your local auto parts store and match it up to the replacement they have. Good luck!!