Top 20 1996 Buick Riviera Questions & Answers

Hello. It seems your Buick's engine is 'flooded' with gas in one or more cylinders. This will cause the engine to 'race' because of a fire in one or more cylinders. The engine gets to high rpm and stays there; this is not good! Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.

Hello. Your fuel pump assembly has to be replaced. The float level assembly is 'crimped' onto the main fuel 'body'; making it nearly impossible to just buy another 'float' and install it. Another scenario is it could be an 'issue' with the ECM/PCM. Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.

Under car ahead of fuel tank on left side

Check the IAC motor, fuel pressure reg,and the air tube between the air filter and the throttle body

gear position indicator will start blinking a code(?) You may think it's blinking a code , but it's not . Doesn't have the capability to do that . Traction, security light on - take it and have DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes checked . Sounds like you have insturment cluster problem , Without testing anything that would be a guess . Take it to a qualifieed repair shop an have it diagnosed .

Throttle position sensor needs to be replaced.Coolant leak has nothing to do with it but cannot be ignored.

Has no relay for the sun roof . Has sun roof control module . No relay for power windows either . Go to http://bbbind.com/free_tsb.html free wiring diagrams , check it out yourself. Circuit breakers supply the Voltage for both . Do you know how to do basic electrical testing ? Videos on youtube .

Right rear junction block ELC fuse30amp .there is also a automatic level control relay located in the LH rear junction block. LH Rear Junction Block Left rear of the passenger compartment, under the rear seat cushion RH Rear Junction Block Right rear of the passenger compartment, under the rear seat cushion

something is getting wet im sure of that you need to check the wiring and check fuse then look at the button or switch

There should be a c clip at the base of the inside of that knob. I can'[t see it very well , but look carefully. spread and remove the c clip and the knob should com right off.

Is that for a 3.8L V6 or 4.0L V8? Here's both The one down below is the 4.0L Hope this helps

Did you check to see if coolant is getting to the heater core? Most reset to default when the battery has been disconnected. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_4c166ba81493f541

Not manually adjustable has a automatic tensioner on it, which will need to be replaced

i dont know how accurate your gauge is, but a lot of gm cars that i have scanned to check fan operation didnt kick the fan on till about 220 degrees. it seems yours is probly working fine. the thermostat isnt fully open till about 200 degrees if its a 195

Need more information on just which air comp you have?

has the fluid ever been changed? That would be a cheap place to start.

The bearings on the idler or tensioner pulley have given up. No cheap fix here. You should fix it now or be prepared to fix a few more things later.

could be a stuck horn relay or a bad horn pad.

under the front side wheel well, driver side.you have to take off the plastic wheel rim, it is near the light.

These pulleys have sealed bearings but they don't last forever. Buy a new one and replace it before you break your serpentine belt.