20 Most Recent 2000 BMW 7 Series - Page 6 Questions & Answers

change the battery, if u jump it, it will not start its a big engine and needs a new battery-u will hear click click and no start right

Check the starter fuse. Could have popped, and would explain the trouble.

The engine code is Secondary air injection solenoid - short circut

It can be fixed by: getting a diagnostic kit and resetting it.
replacing the AIR solenoid
checking to be sure that the solenoid wiring is not damaged.

hope this helps

Power steering problem:

You have a leak (obviously) and now filling it with fluid has trapped air in the system. It needs to be bled (just like brakes) to operate properly.... However this would usually cause noise during steering which you have not mentioned.

I would put money on the failure of the power steering pump!! Especially if it was operated for any lenth of time with low fluid.

Yes - you are correct - ABS intermittant problems are most likely a sensor... and not related to your steering problem. Another common ABS failure is the ABS ring (attached to the spinning axel that the sensor gets its feedback from) - however if it is cracked - the light would stay on consistantly.


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IS THIS AN AUTOMATIC OR MANUL GEARBOX? COULD BE STARTER RELAY STICKING OR IS THE RINGGEAR ON THE FLYWHEEL DAMAGED HOLDING THE STARTER IN MESH?

this problem is caused by burnt contacts in the starter motor solenoid, this is part of the starter, the solenoid can be replaced separately but most people opt for a rebuilt starter

The filter is actually integrated inside of the resevoir. If your filter is clogged, you could try to remove the resevoir,drain it, and use compressed air to blow through the ports. Otherwise, I think it will need to be replaced.

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm

Its sounds as simple as the belt needing changed...I had the same problem on mind...I changed the belt and the problem was fixed...

It sounds to me like its probably the driver switch is either bad or worn out...best solution is buy the whole regulator

When the car is stationary. Push down on the back (Boot or TRunk) as hard as you can a few times & listen for the squeek. It's more common in the rear suspension from my experience. It sounds like the bushings are gone or worn at the top of the suspension struts.
That's if it does squeek. You might not need your suspension replaced just the bushings as they are normally plastic.
Try doing the same by pushing down at the front of the car also as it maybe happening there too.

engine is about to stall . Have it checked for codes. Then you can diagnose it from there.

make sure there is a good connection, replace bulbs.

check to see if the belt that drives the pupm is tight.

have your timing checked as these codes suggest that you are advanced on one bank and retarded on the other bank, also have your coil pack tested. as for surging up and down while the a/c is on this is normal.

RDC (Reifen Druck Control)
You have a button next to [DSC] that say [RDC], hold that button until the display is 100% filled eith "XXXXXXXXXXXX" and after that it will say "Tire Pressure Set". Or check in your manual for details abouat RDC.


Hope this helps, good luck!

The iHKA is the air conditioning control unit. The panel where you turn on and off the air conditioning and adjust the temperature. The I-drive screen is actually called a CID and it is a control display for all the functions such as navigation, radio, settings, climate control, services due, etc... There really is not a way to fix them without replacement. The control units are programmed to the vehicle and are usually VIN specific and cannot be used from car to car without causing other issues. I have used them temporarily to test a module but never left in or tried coding mine to another model. That makes it hard because you must replace it and that is expensive !!! You can try a used one from a junk yard but most likely will cause new issues

Valve oil seals blown! Leaking oil onto pistons and burning when starting up!