20 Most Recent 2000 BMW 7 Series - Page 5 Questions & Answers

It sounds to me like neither the battery nor the alternator is the problem. The first thing to check is the wire connections at the starter, a starter solenoid if one is used and the battery. Dead alternators never charge the battery and a car with a dead alternator will not ever start without a jump or a charge. A dying starter, if it turns over at all will draw so much current that it will kill the battery in a couple of starts. A final note - many auto parts stores can check the condition of the entire battery - charging - starting system without taking anything off the car and they will do it for free. I would check for loose wires first.

wd40 or some penetrating lubricant and a large hammer??

P0100 is "massair flow sensor circuit malfunction" and P0116 is "coolant temp. sensor circuit range/performance problem. Acceleration/starting issues? Replace both if the answer is yes. Great cars. The last one I drove was up armored.

hook up an inline filter capacitor/resistor network.

WHAT ABOUT OIL LEVEL.NEED MORE DETAIL.

You may try disconnecting the battery for one minute and at the same time turn the ignition key to the run position. Turn the key back to off and reconnect the battery.You "may" lose your saved stations but they can be put back in. Also, during this process make sure that the radio is left in the on position. Good luck, Thank you, Dana

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/355405

It is a hot place under there. Keep a close eye on the temperature gauge and provided it hovers around the half way mark, rest easy.

those vehicle use a lot of module you have to have your vehicle scann to find out wish one'''

pretty quick. but be sure it the alternator. You can test it by starting the car then unplugging the battery. If it cuts off when you unplug it it's the alternator if it keeps running it's not the problem

Read the owners manual on resetting your door control seat preference this will include steering column and pedal adjustment if installed on your 7.

Timing INSPECTION AND ADJUSTMENT Distributor Not Removed EXCEPT MOTRONIC MODELS NOTE: Ignition timing on late model vehicles is constantly being adjusted by the Digital Motor Electronics (DME) engine control system. No manual timing adjustment is necessary or possible. In order to adjust the ignition timing dynamically, the engine must be at operating temperature and running at a specified rpm (see the Tune-Up Specifications chart). A stroboscopic timing light and tachometer are needed for this operation.

1. Disconnect and plug the vacuum line(s) at the distributor.
2. Attach a timing light and tachometer according to the manufacturer's instructions.
3. Raise the idle speed to that listed in the Tune-Up Specifications chart under Ignition Timing.
4. With the idle speed adjusted to the proper rpm direct the stroboscopic timing light beam straight down through the opening in the flywheel housing flange adjacent to the starter, and align the steel ball pressed into the flywheel with the timing mark on the flywheel housing.
5. Loosen the distributor hold-down bolt and rotate the distributor as necessary.
6. After the adjustment has been made, tighten the hold-down bolt and recheck the timing at the specified rpm to make sure that the setting was not disturbed during tightening.

MOTRONIC MODELS Although the timing on vehicles equipped with the Motronic control unit cannot be adjusted, the timing can still be checked. On cars with the Motronic control unit, the only cure for improper timing is to replace the control unit. Also, timing must be within a certain range, as the computer changes the timing slightly to allow for various changes in operating condition. In other words, the timing does not have to be right on the mark, but anywhere in the specified range. To check the timing, proceed as follows:

1. Look up the control unit number found on the casing of the assembly. If you vehicle is a 3, 5 and 6 series vehicles, the control unit unit is located in the glove box. If your vehicle is a 7 series, the control unit is in the right side speaker cutout. Find the unit number on the underside of the assembly and then cross reference the number to the corresponding number on the Computer Controlled Ignition Timing Chart.
2. The engine should be at normal operating temperature. The rpm level should be within the specified range as well.
3. Connect a tachometer and a timing light to the engine. Start the engine and check the rpm. If it is not correct see the appropriate checks under Idle Speed and Mixture Adjustment. Operate the timing light to see if the timing is within the range specified on the chart. If it is significantly outside of the specified range, the control unit must be replaced.

You have an alternator or battery concerne,low voltage caused all the other problems,Start with a battery,then have alternator tested.The failsafes are designed to keep from burning up solenoids and other electronic components.

You will need to verify you are getting power to the solenoid when the trouble is present. If not, the next place to look is the starter relay, then the ignition switch.

look for starter bracket on engine block.thats what holding starter.

their should be a slide button on magazine push that and cd holders should slide out

You obviously have a leak somewhere. Check the radiator hoses and heater lines for seepage. It is passable you may have a head gasket problem. If you pull the plugs and see one white or a lot lighter than the rest it could be water ingestion in that cylinder. But check all the hoses first.