Top 20 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS CVT Sedan Questions & Answers

What is causing that irritating noise? ' DSMtuners

www.dsmtuners.com > ... > Articles: Miscellaneous Jun 1, 2009 - 2 posts - ‎1 author Check the ECU power relay in the console, under the radio. ... You hear a loud clicking type noise from under the hood when you try to start the car. .... You hear a squealing, grinding, or rubbing noise in the lower timing belt .... The Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, Mitsubishi Galant VR-4, ... LOUD squeak when turning steering wheel (Video Inside) 22 posts Mar 5, 2011 Why does my alternator belt squeal so much on initial ... 25 posts May 14, 2010 More results from www.dsmtuners.com

Lancer Troubleshooting [Archive] - evolutionm.net

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NEED RADIO HELP! ... Help not start Lancer GT 2012 EngineOverheating STOP SAFELY warning on ... AC ISSUES 2011 Mitsubishi Lancer ES · 2008 Lancer GTS no start please ... 2011 lancer no sound · Driver/Passenger side floor squeaky? ... plastic piece of rear shelf rattles a lot · Very loud noise on Lancer ES 2008 ...

slow down then,you cant reset it

130 km !! Well, in order of liklihood - out of balance tyre/rim combination - out of round tyres - loose front hub adjustment - worn tie rod end joints - worn suspension bushes - worn front strut and mount rubbers - worn inner tie rod ball joints - worn steering box mounts - worn or loose steering shaft spline or u-joint

Replace transmission oil or replace transmission belts

Check All Plugs To It Make Sure There All In

the blt routing is located under the hood

check your push rod going from the pedal to the booster a quick way is to pull the vaccum hose and see if they release the vaccum not being released can cause sticky problems also check your vaccum hose also

Hi , If all brakes have locked on then its the power brake booster and master cylinder problem so go the foot pedal and push it down with out starting the engine [IS THE PEDAL HARD ] if yes then do the same again with engine going, dose the pedal go down farther, if yes then pump it 3 times if still goes down then the booster is ok and you have to go to the brake line block by following the small brake pipe from the master cylinder to the block connections undo the one to the rear brakes first [small metal pipe from the back of car]half turn only then if fluid comes out tighten it up then do the same to both front brake pipes and do them up tight again then test it by either pushing or start and drive . If it sticks again then take to garage . Dont play anymore.

If this is for the 3.0L OHV 12V, then...

2 person process. Start with the passenger rear first. then the driver side rear. Then passenger front and driver front. Very important for whoever is pumping the pedal not to release the pedal before you close the bleeder. If this happens you will have to start all over again due to letting air in the system. An air bound system is dangerous.

you need to check behind the radio to see if the antennae is plugged in and that you have a band expander

check your fluids ...oils belts. is everything running ok ?

check your idle sensor?

Possibly a bad wheel bearing. Brakes would get louder as you apply the brakes.

Sort of...it the control that allow the blower motor to run at different speeds. Check for voltage at the wires going into the motor...I assume you checked before replacing the motor, but check again. If voltage is there, a bad motor was installed. If no voltage, consult a Haynes Manual wiring diagram to trace the wires from the blower motor back to the source (batt). Best of luck resolving this issue.

remember be carefull and never force anything take pictures as you progress to help remember how it goes back together

Have you tried tightening the belt adjustment on that belt system. Usually there is a belt tensioner inline with the belt and a little more tension could stop the squeak or whine.

You should have a diagram close to belts.

Not reset reprogram right. To do that follow the instructions below.1. Locate the Data Port under drivers side dashboard usually located to the right of steering column.

2. Insert keys in ignition and leave in the OFF position.

3. Make sure there are metal contact pins in terminals 1 and 4 and connect the Data Port terminals 1 and 4 with a suitable jumper wire, leave the jumper wire connected throughout the programming procedure. Make sure you know which terminals are 1 and 4.

4. Within 10 seconds after connecting the jumper wire, press the Hazard Switch 6 times. Note: The doors will automatically lock and unlock once at this time indicating that the system is in the programming mode.

5. Press the LOCK button on the remote to be registered three times within 10 seconds. Upon successful programming, the door will lock and unlock once.

6. Repeat step 5 with up to 4 remotes (including any existing remotes) within one minute. After completing each programming, the doors will lock and unlock once.

7. Disconnect the programming wire and remove the keys from the ignition.