1995 Volvo 850 2.0 - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You can find online repair manual for most vehicles at www.autozone.com.

boost leak. or spark plugs. one or the other.

a quart per 150 miles is NOT normal, the engine may be bad, have a Volvo Specialist check it over. The cat converter will clean up most any oil smoke.

This is a combination of safety and environmental issues.

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Driving with a damaged axle rubber boot will cause excessive wear on the CV axle. I will not recommend drive the car for extend period of time.

The axle grease will splatter on the inner wheel well and the ground your car travel to.

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P0172 is a lean fuel mixture code

P0440 is a code that set by vapor leak from the fuel tank.
In some case it's just a loose fuel cap.
If this code res-surface after reset the it will require a vapor smoke test.to detect the location of the leakage.

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Valve cover gasket leak is common on older car.
It's not expensive to replace the gasket.

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Axle $400+

Valve cover gasket replacement $125


Vapor leak repair $100 to $200+ (depend on where and what part(s) us leaky).


Find a good local independently own shop,the owner may able to combine all these job and give you a better price.

Hello and welcome to FixYa!

You may just have system failure. As a first course of action, I strongly suggest that you remove the positive battery connector and let it sit for atleast 5mins. before reconnecting it. This will reset the system and can get your vehicle back to it's normal operation.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

WOW that is Horrible. The fuel lines are under pressure and some are under high pressure. Its not like the old days when a rubber hose fixed anything. Without seeing the car it is really hard to say how bad it is. If its not too bad then your best bet is to go to a junk yard and buy the whole wire harnes. That is going to be the cheapest route, BUT, you may have other problems like shorts caused by the wires touching, or other components fried because of the shorts. you could rack up a lot of time and money in this. Check the NADA value of the car and decide from there if it is worth in or not. Also you are going to have to replace the fuel rail since he cut it and still correct the injector problems. Sounds like a lawyer may need to be consulted if you dont work something out with the guy. Sorry for your misfortune.

4th gear disengagement:

The 4th gear is engaged automatically after the transmission has shifted through 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears

at certain speeds and loads. By pressing in the button at the rear of the selector level, the 4th gear can be

disengaged, thus providing a three-speed transmission. As a reminder the

? light on the dashboard

glows. By pressing in the button again, the transmission reverts to four-speed operation and the

?
light shuts off.
This is straight out of the owner's handbook. What this indicates is that there may be a problem with the shift solenoid. On the highway, does is seem to rev high? Can you press the button on the shifter and have the light go out? let me know.

ok, turning over and cranking are the same thing, what your saying is it won't fire, so , 2 things make a motor fire, electric and fuel, so starting with the easiest remedy , remove the distributor cap, and inspect the rotor and connection points that are inside the cap, check for any debris built up , sometimes you can clean them good enough to get the car to fire up, if it does , normally you would replace them , ( not that expensive) remove the number one cylinder spark plug, and once out put the spark plug wire back on it, ( your going to need help with this step) with insulated pliers , hold the plug and place the bottom of the plug against a grounding point (any bolt on the motor will do,, but try and keep it away from the carb as its Hopefully going to spark) have someone try and turn the car over as if to start it, look for spark at the end of the plug, if you have spark,, replace the plug and try and start the car , if it won't,, move onto the fuel problem, you need to make sure that the car is getting fuel, remove the fuel line to the carb turn the key for a second, you should see fuel splashing out, if yes ,, you should be able to start the car , if no,, check the fuel filter first , then the fuel pump,

Check the fuel pump inertia switch or fuel cutoff switch.In case of rearend mishap this switch will cut the fuel off.It maybe faulty

Please check if the stereo is wired according to the correct wiring specially connecting the +12, the switched +12 , the ground and the speakers. Now check each and every speaker carefully using a AA cell to hear the noise when the wires are held so as to confirm that the speaker lines are correct ., the speakers are working and there is no shorting.
The ground must be given seperately to the stereo and the antenae earth line is normal to the connection.

they could be crimped , depending on the motor its on, Volvo used the same hoses for many applications , and just added more when needed for length , look up the part on line at a local , autozone , and see if the parts match.

Look for cracked vac hoses and other intake leaks.

here is what you do:

1) figure out the year and model of your volvo, this info is crucial to anyone thinking about answering your question.

2) before you ask the question again with the crucial info, do a search for your model and year and "volvo" and the word "lift" on eBay. the results may answer your question, something holds them all up and they all go bad with time, so someone is selling replacements.

both,, or even a bad fuel pump,, clean the filter , and check for vacuum leaks,, squirt a little wd40 or carb cleaner , a little at a time around the motor, if the RPM's jump up suddenly thats where you may have a vacuum leak , have the pump checked to see if its holding pressure

Check the oil level as follows:

Park the car on a level surface with the engine idling . Slowly move the gear selector lever through all the shift positions and then to position P. Wait 3 minutes before checking the oil level.
As the illustration shows, the dipstick has a COLD and a HOT side. The oil level should between the MIN and MAX marks. Wipe the dipstick with a clean cloth.

WARNING! The oil may be very hot.



Do not use rags that could leave lint on the dipstick. The transmission is topped up via the dipstick tube. The space between the MIN and MAX marks on the dipstick corresponds to 0.5 US qt. (0.5 liter). Do not fill the transmission with too much oil, since this can result in oil being ejected from the transmission. Too little oil, on the other hand, can negatively affect transmission operation, particularly in very cold weather.

A Cold transmission: oil temperature 105° F (40° C). This is a normal temperature for the transmission after idling for about 10 minutes. At oil temperatures below 105° F (40° C), the level may be below the MIN mark.
B Warm transmission: oil temperature 169° F (80° C). This temperature after driving for about 30 minutes. At oil temperatures above 190° F (90° C), the level may be above the MAX mark.

Fluid type: ATF Dexron IIE and Mercon.

About the parts, check it in this link: automotix.net/usedautoparts/1996-volvo-850-inventory.

Could find interesting this repair guide: service/850/AC-HeaterSystem-Manual (pdf format)

Hope this helps.