1995 Volvo 850 2.0 - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

All you can do is check for fuel and spark. Have more information about your vehicle, and figure out if your getting either fuel or spark or both and repost your problem in detail. This will get you a much higher change of an accurate answer to your problem.

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6222268-engine_doesnt_crank_turn_over . These are genericinstructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.

Quit buying parts. If the relay would have been the problem I would have said to take it out and hit it. If it were stuck that would likely have fixed it. Yours isn't. Likely your fan control in the car has something stuck in it. Pull it and check.

check for broken or frayed wire going to sensor if wire is ok sensor is defective replace it.

Yes, there is a very good chance that your ABS and TRAC lights are coming on because of a defective wheel speed sensor. There are also many other things that can cause that including a failed traction control module or ABS hydraulic control unit.
Diagnosing the exact cause of the problem is not really a DIY job. You will have to access the computer data and retrieve the fault codes from the ABS System. Once the codes are collected, the problem must be diagnosed according to the manufacturer's troubleshooting charts for each code.
Changing a defective part might be a candidate for a DIY project, but that depends a lot on what is actually causing your problem. Sometimes these things are fixed by reprogramming the computer - no hard parts actually get replaced in these cases.
Even if it is a wheel speed sensor, there are sensors at each wheel on most cars. (You didn't mention MAKE, MODEL, ENGINE SIZE, TRANSMISSION TYPE, Etc.) In this scenario, you will have to access the computer data just to find out which one it is.

The hand brake thing could be anything from a broken cable to a simple adjustment. Again, the CAUSE must be diagnosed.

Please also review this article: What Else Could Be Wrong?

You need to contact Volvo dealer and provide your VIN# to get code for your radio

1. Your problem is the cylinder head gasket cracked.
2. Forget about bad turbocharger at this moment.
3. You need to buy a new cylinder head gasket and new cylinder head bolts. Check the cylinder head flatness when removing. Rectificate the cylinder head surface if necessary! Also change the engine oil & filter. You need new engine coolant, of course. If you do it yourself the approximate cost of the reparation is $250.

A turbo rebuild kit has absolutely nothing to with a head gasket. I don't know if you are planning on doing this job yourself, but a Volvo is a Swedish made car and the price for parts can get really expensive. If you are going to take it to a mechanic to get it fixed the labor alone will cost more than the part itself. Also when changing a head gasket you needto make sure that your head isn't cracked. I'm not sure of the year and condition of your vehicle, so I can't really tell you if it's worth fixing or not.

Fluid has nothing to do with loose steering

If you can find the horn you can take a two wires and run the from the positive and negative posts of the battery. Horns don't usually fail. the horn switch is in the steering wheel and could have open wires in the wiring harness that that runs down the steering column. Lastly there is a horn relay that is wired between the switch and horn. The easiest thing is to take off the horn wire and spray some WD40 on the terminal and on the horn. Tighten up the terminal end with a pair of pliers for a snug fit.

Not clear what you are asking. Did you determine that the leak is the hose?
I believe that the reservoir is mounted on the pump, so this car has only two hoses. AutohausAZ carries them both and shows them as being in stock. They also show the pump and other steering components for this car.

one of the oil lines probably has a leak in going to the turbo maybe able to get the part from auto parts but most likely will be a dealer part

Sounds like fan temp sensor went bad and contact is closed keeping fan running.Need to locate fan sensor and replace.

Turn the key to auxiliry but dont start it. Listen around the feul tak area to hear a humming sound. If you do,then fiel pump is fine. If not then replace fuel pump. If you do,then check timing belt

will try to assist. when your wipers 'on' can you see looking from outside of car at the driverside wiper,is anything moving?look really close at the wiper at bottom near the wind sheild? is anything moving?do you see the wiper trying to turn?but just does'nt grab? if you see the knob turning,but the wiper not moving,maybe the wipers not pushed down onto the gear properly. try with wipers on,push the wiper arm down,or towards windsheild. does it move then? do you see the wiper gear moving at all? wiggle the arm,does it move on it's own? if so, you need the wipers adjusted.[autozone,advance auto parts] for free. if the wiper on drivers side,the gear that drives the wipers[little round] thing that wiper arm at the bottom of winsheild does'nt turn at all, the wiper arm under the dash in disconnected. this means that the panel outside where the wipers are will need to come off and the wiper arm will need to be reconnected to the wiper motor.there is a reason the wiper arm came off in the 1st place so that will need to be dealt with. it may be a faulty keeper pin,or a faulty carter key that holds the wiper assembly to the wiper motor.i really hope that this assists you,let me know please! and if you need further assistance,please repost your questions to fixya.com!

Hello! Even though you have replaced the Throttle Positioning Sensor (TPS) This does not insure that Input and Output reach their proper destination...If you have a volt meter here is a test procedure to eliminate the TPS from the equation...

The wire colors and signal names for the TPS are...Orange/White...Sensor output...Yellow...5volt reference...And Brown/Black return...Using two safety pins...Push the point into the rear of the in-place connector on the Brown/Black...The other on the Yellow...Set the meter to read +5 volts...Hook the + probe to Yellow...And - probe to Brown/Black...Turn the key to ON...Must read +5 volts...Move the Yellow pin to the Orange/White wire...Must read less than 1 volt (.85)...Send a comment and I'll take it from there...Often times people become convinced that there can only be one thing wrong...Double faults are rather common................Guru...........Saailer I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

does it stop flashing after engine starts

I would say you have the wiring on wrong ,now some vehicles have the earth permantly and adjust the feed input but yours is done on the earth wire ,it leaves the motor and runs into resistor and somehow i think you got the wires mixed up or on the wrong way around ,did do one a few years back but that was a long while ago ,most vehicles here get to 12/15 yrs old then fail the annual mechanical inspection so get scrapped ,this blower motor on your vehicle would cause the vehicle to fail the test as no demisters is a failure .

yes, possibly the immobilizer or the safety interlock.

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6222268-engine_doesnt_crank_turn_over . These are generic instructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.

It sounds like you have a worn syncroniser gear.
You may be able to double clutch between 2 and 3 to get a gring free gear change.
A reoair would require a tranmission d removal and repair.

How to double clutch
push clutch to remove from 2 and stop in neutral-let the clutch out while in neutral.
Wait a second, then push in the clutch and put in 3 and let the clutch out.

This is how transmissions in old trucks without syncronisers are shifted.

Hope this helps