2011 Toyota Sienna - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You would have to get a new set of keys from Toyota car dealer ship stores and a locksmith.

Can you hear the motor running when you spray? If you can, then the problem is likely partially plugged sprayers. If not, then the motor itself is shorting out. It is unlikely to be the fuse (if it is 'loose' then it isn't seated and the sprayers wouldn't work at all).

This fix is for 2011 rear manual door.
You may experience some light turns on while driving over a bump or take a sharp turn. Your rear hatch indicator said door is opened.
The courtesy switch is located inside the rear hatch latch assembly. Nothing more but a simple thin lever line leave spring that contacts the ground pole to tell body ECU the door is opened.
The spring is so thin that it bent out of shape overtime therefore when you close the door it doesn't get pushed away from the ground pole far enough caused intermittently false door open alarm.
ALl you have to do is to remove the door latch assembly. Separate the actuator from the latch. Look into the latch you would see a copper like spring one end rests onto the ground pole. Jam your screw driver between the latch housing and spring lightly pride it away from the pole to unbend it. . Manually close the latch and look to see if it gets pushed away from the pole. If it doesn't try to unbend it again.
If you have or know how to use a ohm meter than check for continuity between spring and it housing. You should get 0.3-1.0. Ohm when the latch is open and no continuity when you closed the latch.
Any question shoot me a email constant12vdc@yahoo
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If all speakers quit at once i would suspect the amplifier has quit. Depending on the specific stereo system it may be inside the radio or an external amp.

OBD-II code P1603 indicates an issue with TCU communication. There are communications that exist between the engine control module, or ECM, and the transaxle control module, or TCM. This communication is done through a control area network, or CAN. With the communication of the CAN, an independent pin and wiring is needed to receive a signal that includes sensor information from the ECM. The more information there is to communicate, the more wiring that is needed. When it comes to CAN communication, all of the information communicated is done alone control modules like the ECM and TCM using CAN lines. When there is a problem with these lines, the ECM will detect the problem and store a P1603 trouble code; the storing of the trouble code is what causes the SES or check engine light to illuminate on the dash. Possible causes of trouble code P1603 include:

• Faulty transaxle control module (TCM)
• Faulty engine control module (ECM)
• Harness running from the TCM to the ECM has a short
• There is a poor electrical connection between the TCM and ECM

Diagnosing the exact cause of the problem should always begin with a visual inspection that could reveal bad wiring, loose connections, or damaged parts. From there, it is a matter of running down the list to determine what needs to be replaced. In general, a bad ECM will cause a loss of power, poor fuel economy, and stalling engine. While a bad TCM will have more prevalent transaxle issues like erratic shifting P1605 and P1605 These codes are indicating a starting problem and rough idling. Code p1604 is a very vague code and diagnosing it without having a symptom is very complicated. And code p1605 is rough idling which means that the computer have noticed a rough idle situation usually this code is accompanied by other codes or if it's alone then I would suspect a fuel pressure issue. These two codes involve diagnosis and we'll need to dig into this problem deeper to find out what's causing them, Unless you are an experienced technician who need assistance then I will suggest that you take your vehicle to your local toyota dealership and they should be able to find the problem. P1P

No there is not. You need to take it to a garage that does electical repair do not let someone fix this problem you woll end up with a worse problem then you have now. I can not stress enough use the dealer or a good garage that does electrical work.

Easier way- Let vehicle sit overnight and keep bottles of new fluid outside at the same temperature 1. open fill plug- always do this first-if it is stuck you won't look stuped not being able to add fluid. 2. Place a clean drain pan under the transmission 3. open drain plug 4. Remove the stand pipe inside the drain hole. 5. Let all fluid drain for a while 6. Replace the stand pipe and drain plug 6. Carefully, precisely measure the dirty fluid in the pan. This is key. Get the measure down to the ounce if you can. 7. Using a funnel and vinyl hose pour precisely the same amount of new fluid into the transmission. As long as the new fluid and old fluid are at the same temperature, you do not have to worry about thermal expansion. 8. Start engine, go through gears, and drive away. Do this two or three times to get most of the fluid changed. I find a single change makes a big difference.

there are backup lights(bulbs) that have the warning sound built into them that you can buy from auto supply stores. to find the power wire if you use a test light at the socket wires and the car is in reverse with key on engine off you will find the wire. one wire will be power and the other ground.

service time.................

I think I can help. When you drive your car down the road, you are moving a lot of air, and especioally in a van or suv, you are creating a vacuum behind you. This is creating a suction that is attempting to pull your back lid open. Obviously, the door switch is so sensitive it is registering as "open" when you go fast. You need to adjust the door switch, or have someone ride in the rear ( at high speed) and check and see if the rear door is actually not sealing properly. ( Like if the car had been hit in the rear.)Be blessed.

It uses a cartridge type filter, the filter is inside an aluminum housing in front just behind the radiator on the engine block, you will need a special filter socket to remove it, the dealers have it as well as most autoparts stores.You will see a 1/2" square hole, turning it will not remove the filter housing, you need a socket that fits on the 3" or so housing cap.

try to reset the window rolling by sitting on the driver's seat and turn ignition on and from the main windows function buttons on the driver's door press at the same time both front windows down if are up to the end and still hold pressed the buttons for a second,then do the same for up with same time on hold.do the same if not respond until respond.

toyota sienna 2011 model has a sealed transmission that's why you cannot find dipstick. the transmission fluid is rated up 100k miles that you don't need to check the fluid.

these doors have an on off switch near the control switch, make sure thats on. another thing is that this should be under warranty from the dealer, give them a call and see if theres a warranty on this type of problem.good day.

For tonight I would just unhook that battery, and call them in the morning. I wouldn't do anything other then unhook the negative battery cable. You don't want to do anything to void the warranty.

Do you have any issues with your other key? There is a small RF transponder in your key that is transmitted to a module in your vehicle. When the module identifies a valid signal it will allow the vehicle to start. What happening is that your vehicle isn't identifying the key because the transponder signal is weak. I would speak to someone at the service department at the dealership where you purchased the vehicle and have them cut and program you a new key to replace your defective one.

you need to replace the cv joint (constant velocity) you can get them remanufactured at auto parts store at a fair price

Question edited to add maker. Question moved to model category from Building Lumber. These automated features are all computer controlled by the BCM. It the door doesn't close within a certain time, or maybe it has a sensor, that can sense the jrking? Certainly there are sensors that know the door should be closed. If you can get behind the panelling, you could spray with a dry silicone lubricant like Jigaloo. You are not alone with this issue and it may be the Recall problem. There is a recall/TSB for issues relating to the auto back door on these, and it sounds like your issue may be related to the reason for the recall/TSB. Your local dealer should be able to tell you with your VIN whether this has been performed on yours. When we bought our 2006 last year from a dealer, it had not been done and I had to ask them to do it. ·#3·Mar 12, 2012 There is a recall for the back door stays (gas struts). When they deteriorate they can no longer hold the back door up, the door sags and activates the power closing. Have a read here http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/skyvisions/2008-10-26_162407_04_sienna3.pdf https://www.google.com/search?q=Toyota+Sienna.+The+rear+tailgate+door+on+my+Sienna+opens+and+then+closes+itself ..

Tune up and check for codes. You may be in 'Limp Mode'. https://www.google.com/search?q=Toyota+Sienna+low+speed+loss+of+power