20 Most Recent 2011 Ford Fiesta Questions & Answers

Question edited into real sentences. Question moved to make model category. You would have to remove the latch and look behind it. It sounds like something is broken or has has something disconnected. The videos may help https://www.google.com/search?q=2011+Ford+Fiesta+replace+rear+door+latch ..

Is it just one window? Drivers side?

The serpentine belt has no bearing on the camshaft timing, so my guess is that you mistimed the camshaft timing for no reason. The serpentine belt is external and is driven by the crankshaft and runs the alternator, the A/C, Steering Pump and water pump. If your CAMSHAFT belt broke, the Ford Fiesta has an interference engine, so you have bent valves and damaged pistons.

Does A Ford Fiesta Have A Timing Belt Or Timing Chain?

https://www.autopadre.com > belt-or-chain > ford-fiesta

Ford Fiesta - Timing Belt Or Chain - All 2011 Ford Fiesta engines have a timing belt and are interference. Engine Type, Timing Belt Or Chain ..

Ignition fuse or wire is cut somewere

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Front crash sensors are behind the front bumper cover, side sensors (if equipped) are at the lower side of the "B" pillars. I have yet to see one "go bad" without an impact (single use sensors and must be replaced after an accident)..

Since Fiesta diesels are a pretty new release I would take it back to the dealer under warranty, assuming it is still under warranty. It may be a blocked fuel filter, or contaminated fuel as it sounds like it is starving. Being so new I doubt that'd be the case, unless you've accidentally put petrol in it?? My daughter filled her new diesel up at the petrol bowser on the second fill and paid quite a fee to have the system drained and reprimed with new diesel fuel.

On this website you find fuse box diagram and description for Ford Fiesta http://www.autogenius.info/category/ford/fiesta

try this link might help you.. speedometer doesn work Google Search

The Ford fiesta auto transmission is actually a newer, more efficient transmission design, called a Dual Clutch Transmission. It is actually an automated manual transmission that gets more miles per gallon out of your gas. It does have some noise during shifting, which are the little electric motors that push in and out the "mini" clutches in the gearbox. It is actually kind of cool - even if some don't like the difference in driving characteristics of this transmission. Anyway, if you need transmission fluid - that would be a bad sign, maybe a leaking shaft seal. If you need to replace it, make sure you replace it with Motorcraft Dual Clutch Transmission Fluid XT-11-QDC. You normally have to get this through Ford. Sorry. Isn't cheap!! It is a special type of transmission fluid, kind of amber in color (if you have someone sell you something that is red, IT IS THE WRONG FLUID!) Start with the vehicle in NEUTRAL, positioned on a hoist (you want the car as level as possible for the most accurate reading). You can also do this by lifting the vehicle on 4 jacks to keep it level, and high enough to take off the driver-side front wheel (makes this SO much easier). Take off the driver side wheel. Locate the plug on the side of the transmission (see image). CLEAN the are around the plug - you don't want dirt in that transmission! Remove the fill plug using the correct sized Allen wrench. Righty tighty, Lefty loosely. Using a oil suction gun/ Syringe Pump, fill the transmission (actually, the trans-axle) to the correct level. Add transmission fluid until the oil runs out of the fill hole. The trans-axle is full when the oil flow from the fill port has slowed to a broken stream or dripping. Do NOT overfill the trans-axle, this causes the fluid to be forced out of the case, which can damage your seals - not a good things, so make sure the car is level, and make sure you let the excess fluid drain out. The picture below shows you what you are trying to achieve. Note that the green is the fluid (which is actually amber in color). Re-install the fill plug. Tighten to 43 Nm (32 lb-ft). (You will need to use a ball head hex socket so that you can put on a torque wench). That's it! Hope this helps!

huh? is that english or klingon? or Mr. data. mind meld. LOL

Sounds like the dealer's mechanic may have accidentally dislodged a hose or two.. take it back and tell them everything that has happened...MAKE SURE the boss there understands the 22% milage drop and the GASOLINE LEAK didn't start until THEY worked on it!!!

Here's a link to code P011e. Definition of code P011E You can look up the other one,k.

Note the diagram. See the power point and cigar lighter, is that what your talking about? The top wire to component is voltage, bottom wire is ground. As you can see, the cigar lighter gets voltage from a fuse.

Idle speed needs to be adjusted to give more revs,

If it is an automatic the gearbox level must be checked by the dealer, there is no owner access. It is a "sealed" transmission.

Most likely it is the manifold converter. If 4 cylinder, you have 1, if 6 cylinder you have 2 manifold cat. converters and probably 1 under car. these do NOT go bad by them self. A misfire in the engine due to spark plugs (motorcraft only) ignition coil, etc....If check engine light on, take it to Auto Zone, etc... and they will scan it for free. Get scan codes.. Po420 and po430 are codes for bad converter. Good Luck

Check this http://www.filedropper.com/timing-drive-components-engine-1-6l-in-vehicle-repair