Have bought 3 x amb-25 units and all have failed in the resistance check, now whatever resitance is put between the probes they read 0 ohms, it is particularly concerning when monitoring in slab heating cables at concrete pour a the resistannce reads 0!!. I have sent 1 back to Fluke and they have said there is nothing wrong.

The chamber probe has failed or is not connected.

Page 121

The cooking chamber probe has failed or is not properly connected. (Circuit open)

Check the chamber probe. The resistance value must be about 1100 Ohm at 25°C. The probe is connected to the terminals 44 and 45 of the power PCB.

https://www.partstown.com/modelManual/ANG-FX_sm.pdf

..

Indoor inlet pipe sensor. Cause of error, Open/short, Solder poorly, internal circuit error.

Check point & Normal condition, Normal resistor 5 ohm at 25 C unplugged.

Normal Voltage: 2.5 vdc/ at 25 C ( plugged in )

Check Point:
1. Unplug the sensor on the indoor unit PCB.
2. Estimate the resistance of the sensor.
3. If the resistance of the sensor is 10 ohms/ 5 ohms at 25 C then the sensor is normal.
4. If the resistance of the sensor is - 0 - ohms then replace the sensor.
5. Plug the sensor on the PCB and Power on.
6. check voltage.
7. If voltage of sensor is 2.5 VDC at 25 C then the sensor is normal.
8. If the resistance is O or 5 Vdc replace the PCB.

A quick check to do, is disconnect the power going to the fan (switch off power board) only do this if your a qualified electrician.

Check for volatge AC on the live and neutral wires first then,
After that take out the wires of the fan should be live and neutral.
And check there resistance with a
multimeter. Should be 80-200R (ohms)

If it doesn't read make sure you have plugged your probes in your meter and touch them together to see if they are 0hms. Then check for reading again.

If there is no reading make sure you have correct wire.

If no reading again it means the fan is dead. The windings have open circuit.


To check the switch working. (Remember power is off) put probes across switch and see ohms. Should be either 0 ohms or no reading. 0 ohms showing it's in on position and no reading shows off position. If both readings are no readings then the switch is dead.

To get to the switch you have to open it physically

Check for 12 volts at the orange wire on the fuel gauge. If missing check instrument fuse and associated wiring. If present do the following checks:

1. Remove gauge. Ground Y/W wire of fuel gauge sender located at bottom of gauge. Turn ignition switch ON.

a. Fuel gauge must indicate FULL. If gauge indicated FULL, gauge is functioning correctly and go to step 2.

b. If gauge did not indicate FULL, proceed to step 3.

2. Set MULTI-METER to resistance scale to measure the resistance of the sending unit. Place one probe on Y/W and the other probe on a good ground.

a. If fuel tank is full, the reading should be 40 ohms. An empty tank should have a 240 ohm resistance. A half full tank will be pproximately 97-118 ohms.

b. If a very high resistance or infinity is indicated on the meter, the sender may be "open" or not grounded. Check that sender and fuel tank are grounded by placing one probe of Multi-Meter on sender ****** and the other probe on crankcase. Meter must indicate one ohm or less. Replace sender if one ohm or less was present. If a higher resistance is present, check for poor connection on ground wire.

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

Robin 11 Hp I am guessing here... RGV6100 (Model?)

Things to look for:
1. Open the control panel and inspect the capacitors and the YELLOW wires from the capacitors going to the stator. Look for signs of wax leakage from the long silver 28 MFD capacitors. You would see it in the bottom of the control panel enclosure. Probe the capacitors with a meter on a resistance (ohms) scale of R X 10,000. You should see a huge jump in resistance and then the meter drifts to infinity. Reverse the test leads looking for the same indication.

2. Inspect for any loose connections from the control panel to the stator. Look for dark or hot connections. Repair as needed.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Stator checks

* STATOR

(1) Measure the insulation resistance between

BLUE lead and the core.

(2) Measure the insulation resistance between

WHITE lead and the core.

(3) Measure the insulation resistance between

YELLOW lead and the core.

(4) Measure the insulation resistance between
BROWN lead and the core.

AC Winding
White / Red = 0.2 Ohm
Black / Blue = 0.25 Ohm

Condensor Winding
Yellow / Yellow = 0.58 Ohm

* ROTOR

Measure the insulation across one of the soldered
terminals of the rotor and the core

Then test across the 2 soldered terminals of the rotor.

Resistance = 1.75 Ohm

NOTE 1 :

Because a diode is soldered to the coil ends at

the terminals, resistance may be measured only

when tester probes touche the terminals in one

combination of polarity. Therefore, if no resistance
reading appears, try checking in reverse polarity.


Diode rectifier test (Lovated between the 2 capacitors)

Orange wire should read to all of the other terminals.
Both Brown wires should read to the Brown White wire (Note polarity)

Those are pretty much the checks that you can do and should reveal where the problem lies.

I think you may have a burned wire / terminal somewhere inside the control panel.
Usually when they just stop working the failures are
1. The rotor (Bad and horribly expensive news)
2. Capacitor wires (Yellow) open
3. Stator wires damaged.
The stators on these units do not usually fail.

All manuals for this unit can be found here (Owner's / parts / Service)
http://www.robinamerica.com/productsupport.aspx?pid=28

If the link doesn't work use:
http://www.robinamerica.com Choose Power products and then customer support. Manuals.

This should give you something to work with. Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Hi and wleome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

Pull off the small cover on the OUTSIDE of the end bell that covers the bearing and the brushes. Using a meter on resistance scale of R X 100 or R x 1000 probe the brushes and see if you read any resistance You should see a reading of much less than 1000 ohms that would be the rotor winding resistance. If you do not have resistance then remove the brushes and check the condition and LENGHT of the brushes. The brushes should be no less than 3/8" long. If you can get your test leads into the brush holes probe the slip rings and read the rotor resistance. You must read resistance under 500 Ohms. No resistance or can not reach the slip rings remove the end bell and test rotor resistance again but probing the 2 slip rings.

Most of the time the brushes wear out or break off when a generator just suddenly stops working.

Reinstall the end bell and read for a DC voltage reading of 3 - 9 volts across the brushes after you know the brushes are in good working order. No voltage then the AVR has failed. If you have voltage then the final tests would be continuity checks of the diode and capacitor in the end bell and finally the stator windings. The dilde will ony read resistance in ONE direction. It should NOT read open or shorted in both directions. The capacitor check use R x 10,000 and probe the capacitor terminals. Reverse the leads and probe it again. You should see a brief jump in resistance and the meter will drift to infinity EACH time you reverse the leads.

If you want parts information I need the model number off of the unit data plate to get that information for you.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Hi and
SA (burners off) is a door lock switch A problem. The switch has to be checked for 0 resistance across the terminals. If it has resistance then there is another resitance check to look ofr 2350 Ohms between pin 5 in plug P4 and terminal N. If the meter reads zero or infinity the lock motor or the wiring to the lock motor is defective. If the meter reads 2350 Ohms replace the electronic oven control.

This is per page 97 of the service manual: (C/P)

http://frigidaireservicetips.com/pdfs/477_5.pdf

Remove power from the range and go to the back of

the control and disconnect the P3 plug. Measure

the resistance between pins 3 and 4. If the meter

reads infinity check the oven door switch and the

wiring to the door switch. If the meter reads zero go

to step 2.

2. Measure the resistance between pins 1 and 3 of

plug P3. If the meter reads infinity switch A of the

lock motor assembly or the wiring to switch A is

defective. If the meter reads zero go to step 3.

3. Measure the resistance between pin 5 in plug P4

and terminal N. If the meter reads zero or infinity

the lock motor or the wiring to the lock motor is

defective. If the meter reads 2350 Ohms replace
the electronic oven control.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Measure the resistance of the meat probe on the K-ohm setting. If it's open, then the probe is bad. I'm not finding a spec on the resistance but it should be something in the K-ohm range.

Next stop is to check the meat probe socket. May be gunked up with condensed grease or whatever. Sometimes a light schmear is all it takes to flake it out. Then check continuity from each leg of the meat probe socket back to the ERC, where the meat probe harness connects.

Hi,
As you are looking at the terminals
The nine 'o clock terminal is the common
The 2 'o clock terminal is the run,
The four 'o clock terminal is the start

http://www.lodgingac.carrier.com/Files/LodgingAC/Global/US-en/52CP_Wiring_Diagrams_52cp-2w.pdf

I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!

Thanks for using Fixya!!

Heatman101

It's possible that you have a shorted speaker wire. If one of the speaker wires is pinched, grounded or shorted it will cause the deck's internal amplifier to shut down. The easiest way to check is with a multimeter's resistance function. Remove the CD player and unplug it. Set your multimeter for "resistance" or "continuity". Attach the black probe to chassis ground; you can use the black ground wire in the deck's harness, clean dash metal, or the outer ring of your cigarette lighter. Use the red probe to test each of the speaker outputs in the harness: white, gray, green and violet. If you find a speaker wire that shows any continuity with chassis ground, then that's the cause of the problem. A speaker with a damaged voice coil may also cause the deck to shut down. To test this, probe the positive and negative leads of each speaker and test the resistance between them. For example, to test the left front speaker you'd put the red probe on the white wire and the black probe on the white/black wire. Each speaker should read a minimum of 3 ohms of resistance. If you get a lower reading then it might be causing your problem. If you don't find a problem with any of the speaker wires, then chances are the deck's internal amplifier has failed.