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Power supply prpblem .dead set.the mosfet transistor 17n80c3 shorted.
sir, how can i download the pdf schematic diagram of this model of behringer pmh europower 5000 .
your support and emmediate attention is highly appreciated.
thank s
norman
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In my opinion, due to the physical appearance of pmp4000 and pmp3000 look the same, it will most likely also have a common circuit and parts list (at least, most).
Usually Behringer (and all the manufacturers), with the same series / sequence, using the same circuit, the difference is the number of channels only. You can compare the parts list on PMP3000 schematic, with your PMP4000. PMP4000.
These are delivered with a power supply. If yours has failed, LIKELY there are other problems. I have repaired several supplies and can coach you through which parts to replace. Often the failure originates with a shorted MOSFET in one of the amplifier channels, usually the rearmost one. Getting parts for these is really hard as FullCompass is the Behringer parts distributor. The SPS1000 supply takes out about $25 of parts when they go. The hardest parts to replace are the IGBT transistors as the heat sinks are hard to remove to get the screws out of the transistors. All the repair parts are available using five different online sources.
Scroll down to "get manual" and click to download. Ignore other download links.
The phantom power is a separate rectifier and regulator. See page 11 of the download service manual for the power supply. Be careful when working on line operated switching supplies. I suspect you will find one of the other supplies is dead. If the phantom is OK, then the switcher is working and one of the rectifier/filter/regulators is bad. Check if an electrolytic cap is shorted.
Oh yeah... know them well The IGBT transistors fail, the sand coated resistors blow open... replace as a pair. The driver transistors get blown... 2SA1020's and 2SC2655-Y's. One or more of the gate speedup diodes for the IGBT's get blown. The switching reg chips, IR2153 is usually gone. and more...
Scroll down to "get manual" and click to download. Ignore other "download links".
You will likely find that one of the power amps has shorted... been there, done that several times. Usually the channel A (rearmost) power amp shorts takeing out the 9140 Mosfets and other parts. Often an internal short between an interior and upper layer of the amp circuit board is the fault that causes all this. Use a light bulb (150 watt) in series with the power input when testing after repair. Use an isolation transformer when working on the supply for personal safety. When supply is running again, discharge the 70 volt source caps before plugging onto the amp to avoid welding arcs at the connectors. I have seen the supply hold charge for several days.
On page 11 is the power supply. The TIP31 (T1) is the regulator for the +15 volt rail. The TIP31 is connected as a Darlington with a BC846 (shown on the schematic as "846"). This is a surface mounted tiny transistor.
NOTE: This regulator is NOT a voltage regulator but is actually an ACTIVE ripple filter consisting of the 2.2K resistor (R6) bypassed by the capacitor C4 (100mfd/25v). R8 (120 ohm) serves as a parasitic suppressor and base surge current limiter for the BC846 transistor (T4).
If the main switchers are shorted, then likely the driver transistors are also gone.
Fpr personal SAFETY please use an isolation transformer when working on this.
Hint: Use a 60 Watt light bulb in series with the power input to act as a fuse when unit is "restored" to protect it if not quite all of the blown parts are found, during troubleshooting.
Oh, oh... got one on the bench now... There is a design defect that causes a short and destruction in the power amp portion.
Do a test: Plug headphones into the main 1/4 inch jacks. The sound won;t be very loud since these are line outputs, not for headphones.
IF you get sound out those, then one or both power amps are dead.
Worst case: if one amp is dead, several parts including three power MOSFET transistors are fried for any of the dead channels.
The failure of the amp can wipe out the main power supply. If you effect windows light up, then the small power supply is operating.
If the big supply is fried, there are two large MOSFET switching transistors that are gone. Often several smaller transistors and dides and resistors and one switching IC goes. MOST of these are surface mounted parts and would be beyond the scope of what you can repair.
I am trying to contact Behringer about the flaw but haven't heard back yet.
The nature of the flaw is this: The is insufficient clearance on an internal circuit layer from the edge that fits into a slot in the power amp heatsink. Any humidity that enters can cause the insulation to breakdown and arc to the heatsink causing a chain reaction.
I repaired one of these already before finding the cause, but this one had a smoking gun! I just yesterday milled out the slot deeper and wider and will put insulating tape to prevent further arcing. The arcing that had occured burned away the internal layer and the connections. I will replace thoose with hardwire.
Repair of this problem is time consuming to weed out all the blown parts and to safely bring the unit back to life.
The current unit I am working on took out ONLY the power amp. A 30 milliohm resistor went up in smoke making a real mess. All three power MOSFETS are gonzo and a zener as well... don't know what else I will find. The previous unit was worse as the power supply was wiped as well.
Make sure the three position slide switch is set correctly for the stereo usage, that is NOT the bridged OR the Mon mode.
MAKE SURE the pan pots are set to middle as they control the spit of the audio to the two channels.
This is a class "D" amplifier (switching) and there really isn't any fuse for a single channel.
MAKE SURE your speakon connections are good by swapping your speaker cables.
I repaired my unit and had to do that without schematics... Behringer will not give them out. Mine had a severe arc-over on one side power amp taking out about ten transistors and diodes and one swithcing regulator chip. Had to cut out the "cancer" of the burned board.
This unit uses a complementary output stage that is made up of one transistor on one side and a pair in parallel on the other. This drives the inductor/capacitor filter... I think the switching frequency is between 100KHz and 1 MHz as I recall. All those transistors were gonzo. It also fried the main power switching transistors in the power supply, several smaller transistors, diodes, and the switching regulator chip.
Also two 10 ohm power resistors were fried. They soft start this unit by charging the main caps via two resistors that limit the inrush current.
A small switching supply has to come up first before the main supply which sends the DC to the amp section.
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