Honda Mmd 5000 Watt Electric Start Generator W/  Engine Ngk 6000HE Logo
A
Anonymous Posted on Dec 30, 2010

Have a honda em5000sx generator 1986. installed battery and pos and neg cable leads, tested and there is 12v at the solonoid and 12v to the starter when the key is turned to on. problem is the starter doesn't work.

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Kelly

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  • Master 3,740 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 29, 2011
Kelly
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My goodness I just saw your post and I see it has been around since Dec 2010. Your post appeared after I answered a much newer post. (site operates in this manner)

Anyway if you have a 1986 generator and you have 12V DC to the starter with the key on the most likely problem is the brushes in the starter PN: 31215-ZE2-003 or 31215ZR2003
http://ssl.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-checkout/shopping-cart.aspx?CFID=179837&CFTOKEN=92541317

The only problem I have is that I do not know if this is a set or an individual brush. Use the toll free phone number on the link above to confirm quantity.

Once you have the starter removed use some 220 grit or above sand paper and clean up the copper contacts on the starter armature and lubricate the bearings.

If you do a continuity test of the armature using the copper contacts your meter leads must be exactly 180 deg from each other (opposing) to get a resistance reading.
Reading out the stator winding is a matter of reading the + lead terminal to the case.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

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I've already replaced the starter, battery, terminal posts, and alternator. It will start of a jump after charging for about ten minutes but will not start when switching the batteries out. It just do

Could be poor battery connections or bad (corroded) cables. Put a voltmeter on the battery: ideal would be over 12.6 volts, if less than 12.2 volts, recharge battery.

If you have a voltmeter, google "voltage drop test" to see how to check for high resistance to current flow. Check the positive battery cable from battery to the starter. It may help you find a poor connection.
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How do you wire up 4 6 volt batteries in a 1976 kenworth. 12 volt lights 24 volt starter

When you go pos to neg from one battery to the next it increases voltage, pos to pos just increases amperage. You would want to wire 2 in series, just imagine stacking batteries in a flash light, pos from one to neg on next. Remaining pos and neg are 12v now. Run both remaining pos to starter and ground both negs. your pushing a lot of amps with the batteries and doing 12v, and your charging system is 12v. If you do another series from there, you have to regulate the voltage when the starter kicks in...you risk burning every light and electric component...just like running 12v in 6v system... You can also use 4 12v batteries and run all pos to pos and all neg to neg and have mega cranking amps...that is how all modern big trucks are set up. Your pushing around 7k cranking amps that way(1500 per battery)...plenty to start the healthiest cat... And don't have the worry of dual voltages or running in series. You really don't need 24v to start and unless you have a 24v alternator, these are your 2 options. Best bet if your not sure is to try with 12v...no risk of frying anything even on 24v system. 24v on 12v system is, on the other hand, a big risk. 43bf17ec-4e37-4a15-a147-d1e7a1377d9f.jpg
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Troy bilt pony will not start. replaced 20 amp fuse and battery

OK -- Here's what to do:
TROY-BILT PONY LT CRANKING CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING

NOTE 1: The following tests are to be made with the parking brake applied and the PTO disengaged unless otherwise specified.

NOTE 2: These tests need only be made until the cause of the problem is located. The entire process need not be completed if the problem has been resolved.

NOTE 3: Refer to the wiring diagram below for understanding of all tersts.

NOTE 4: Wiring Diagram references to Key switch A1 and L terminals refer to the same terminal.

1. With all circuits connected normally, connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the battery positive terminal. The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, go to step 2.
b. If YES, go to Step 3.

2. Connect a DC voltemeter directly across the battery. The voltmeter should read at least 12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, charge or replace the battery.
b. If YES, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 2 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 3.
-- battery negative cable condition
-- battery negative cable connections at the battery
-- battery negative cable connections at the tractor frame

3. With all circuits connected normally, connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the key swttch "B" terminal (Circuit #97 - red/white wire). The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, go to step 4.
b. If YES, go to Step 8.

4. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the starter relay BAT terminal (Circuit #94 - heavy red wire). The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 4 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 5.
-- battery positive cable condition
-- battery positive cable connections at the battery
-- battery positive cable connection at the starter relay
b. If YES, go to Step 5.

5. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the fuse holder BAT terminal (Circuit #92 - red wire). The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 5 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 6.
-- Circuit 92 wire condition
-- Circuit 92 wire connection at the starter relay
-- Circuit 92 wire connection at the fuse holder
b. If YES, go to Step 6.

6. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the fuse holder protected circuit terminal (Circuit #97 - red & white wire). The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 6 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 7.
-- 20A fuse condition
-- fuse holder condition
-- fuse holder wire connections
b. If YES, go to Step 7.

7. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the key switch "B" terminal (Circuit #97 - red & white wire). The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 7 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 8.
-- Circuit 97 wire condition
-- Circuit 97 connection at fuse holdser
-- Circuit 97 connection at key switch
b. If YES, go to Step 8.

8. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the key switch "S" terminal (Circuit #80 - orange wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 8 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 9.
-- key switch assembly
b. If YES, go to Step 9.

9. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the parking brake switch Circuit #80 terminal (Circuit #80 - orange wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6
VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 9 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 10.
-- Circuit 80 wire condition
-- Circuit 80 connection at key switch
-- Circuit 80 connection at parking brake switch
b. If YES, go to Step 10.

10. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the parking brake switch Circuit #70 terminal (Circuit #70 - orange & black wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at
least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 10 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 11.
-- parking brake switch assembly mounting and adjustment
-- parking brake switch assembly condition
b. If YES, go to Step 11.

11. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the PTO switch Circuit #70 terminal (Circuit #70 - orange & black wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6
VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 11 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 12.
-- Circuit 70 wire condition
-- Circuit 70 connection at parking brake switch
-- Circuit 70 connection at PTO switch
b. If YES, go to Step 12.

12. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the PTO switch Circuit #60 terminal (Circuit #60 - orange & white wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6
VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 12 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 13.
-- PTO switch assembly mounting and adjustment
-- PTO switch assembly condition
b. If YES, go to Step 13.

13. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the starter relay Circuit #60 terminal (Circuit #60 - orange & white wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least
+12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 11 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 14.
-- Circuit 60 wire condition
-- Circuit 60 connection at PTO switch
-- Circuit 60 connection at starter relay
b. If YES, go to Step 14.

14. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the starter relay MOT terminal (Circuit #93 - heavy red wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, did the relay make a single heavy "click" noise?
1. if YES, replace the starter relay and repeat Step 14 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 15.
2. If NO, connect a DC voltmeter DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the battery negative terminal and the red (POS) lead to the starter relay frame. With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read a maximum of +0.1 VDC.
a. If YES, replace the starter relay and repeat Step 14 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 15.
b. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 14 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 15.
-- starter relay mounting
b. If YES, go to Step 15.

15. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the starter motor BAT terminal (Circuit #93 - heavy red wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 15 test. If YES on retest, but the starter motor does not engage, go to Step 16.
-- Circuit 93 cable condition
-- Circuit 93 cable connection at starter relay
-- Circuit 93 cable connection at starter motor
b. If YES, but the starter motor does not engage, go to Step 16.

16. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the battery negative terminal and the red (POS) lead to the starter motor frame . With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read a maximum of +0.2 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 16 test. If YES on retest, but the starter motor does not engage, go to Step 16b.
-- starter motor mounting to engine
-- engine mounting to tractor frame
b. If YES, but the starter motor does not engage, replace the starter motor.


REFERENCE PART NUMBERS PER WIRING DIAGRAM:

Note that your specific tractor may use differnt part numbers. You can obtain a Parts List specific to your tractor online, at no charge, from Troy-Bilt at www.troybilt.com -- your full model number and serial number are required.

Key Switch 725-04228 (common alternatives are 925-04227B & 925-04659)Parking Brake Switch 725-1657A (common alternative is 725-04363)
PTO Switch 725-1657A (common alternative is 725-04363)
Starter Relay 725-04439

Also note that the starter motor is an engine manufacturer supplied part.



7_20_2012_4_14_09_pm.jpg
Jul 19, 2012 • Troy Garden
1helpful
1answer

John deer mower

Possibly just the fuse. But if you say the jumpers WERE positive to positive and neg to neg it shouldnt have been a problem but maybe the pos clamp touched the body. That would have cooked the battery. First check the fuse, if thats ok then connect your neg jumper lead to the chassis of mower to neg of truck and the pos to pos of truck and hold the other end to the large terminal on starter motor.This will bypass everything and only test starter. Engine will spin over if starter motor ok. There will be a strong spark when touching terminal so watch for fire hazard.
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Gauge showing low output alt only 1yr old wondering if it could be regulator or batt or wiring

if you have access to a digital multimeter, connect the meter (set to volts) across positive and neg. terminal of the battery, should read roughly 12.6 volts, close to 10 volts, battery may be going out, also test the alt output, disconnect neg term and place negative lead to battery neg post and positive lead to neg battery cable (make sure meter is set to amps) should read near the rating, if both those, then you'd want to do a resistance test, (set meter to Ohms) disconnect battery and connect meter neg to either pos cable terminal or where the pos cable connects to the alt and connect positive lead to opposite of neg, should read next to 0, the check resistance of the ground by connecting meter between batt neg cable and body of alt.

- Spenser
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Were is negative. Battery post

The negative battery cable is black and the positive battery cable is red.
The positive battery cable will lead to the starter while the negative battery cable will connect to the body of the car which is negatively grounded.

Always remove the neg. battery cable first, and then the pos. battery cable second. And install in the opposite direction, pos. battery cable first, and then finally the neg. battery cable to the battery.

Also, many batteries have the (+) and (-) posts labeled in an embossed fashion on the plastic case.

Do not reverse, or else the vehicle's electronics can be fried.

Good luck on this repair.
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My car will not start and i have no idea on how to check the starter, can someone help me out i need my car for work

make sure your key is on, look at the wires on your starter, figure out which one is pos. and which is ground. take a set of jumper cables and connect bat.pos. to starter pos. and then neg to neg basicly bypass starter sylanoid ..or easier way ..pull starter and take it to advance or orielly s and have em test it
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STARTER WONT TURN

You probably already checked, but 1st thing to do is make sure the battery is good, fully charged, and cables are clean at connections, and tight. If so, Pull the starter out and bring it to a parts store where they will test it for free and let you know if it is shot. You can also remove it, attach jumper cables to it (neg. to metal body of starter, pos. to connection where battery cable was). Stand back as when you touch the pos. cable it will (if working properly) advance the gear on the shaft in the starter and then spin (to crank the engine over if it was mounted in place). This is a rather violent and very quick event, so stand back and be careful.
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Need to charge 12v car battery

Hello,

If battery is out of the vehicle, connect positive lead to positive terminal and negative lead to negative terminal.

If battery is in the vehicle, the proper way to connect leads depends on if it's a negative-grounded or a positive-grounded vehicle.

Here is a link to the manual for this charger.
Click where it says "Get This manual" (it's free).

Scroll down to pages 4 and 5 and it give detailed instructions on the proper way to connect leads and a lot more. It's a good manual to keep for future use.

I hope this helps.

http://powertool.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/schumacher/se520ma_se5212a_se1275a.html



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