Creda compact 3 37301 tumble dryer pull down door. Not heating only rarely, have changed the element. It heated a little while but starts blowing cold air. Drum is working and fax at back

Reset overtemp thermostat should be small round disk attached to drum with a little red button.. Press firmly should reset ..

It depends on which make and model of tumble dryer you have as to how easy it is to replace the relevant parts. Some tumble dryers have heating elements that are easily accessible by removing the back panel, and can be tested for continuity or checked for obvious burning out or open circuit. Others though have their heating elements inside, which aren't accessible without stripping the dryer down we will try and cover as many as possible in or video tutorials section. Tumble dryer heating elements are always protected by thermal fuses and thermostats which are usually simple devices with 2 wires connected and have a bimetal strip inside them. They can be tested for continuity with a test meter.
The problem is that if a stat (thermostat) or t.o.c. (thermal overload cut-out) has gone open circuit, it may be for a reason. Overheating could have caused it by not being able to vent the air due to a blockage some ware. Blocked filters or even the machine not being allowed its ten minute cooling down period, Overloading can cause it as well. Sometimes they can go for no apparent reason. A blocked or severely kinked vent hosecan also cause overheating.

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SOUNDS LIKE YOU NEED NEW HEATING ELEMENTS.

A tumble dryer that isn't heating up at all needs checking with a continuity test meter. The most common cause is a heating element failure, or t.o.c's going open circuit. It depends on which make and model of tumble dryer you have as to how easy it is to get to the relevant parts. Some tumble dryers have heating elements that are easily accessible by removing the back panel, and can be tested for continuity or checked for obvious breakage. Others though have their heating elements inside, which aren't accessible without stripping the dryer down. Tumble dryer heating elements are always protected by thermal fuses which are usually simple devices with 2 wires connected. They can be tested for continuity with a test meter
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If power is getting to the tumble dryer and the socket is definitely OK, then the most common problem with tumble dryers not working is when the door micro switch fails, or the catch on the door that operates the switch either breaks or no longer activates the door switch. Check for broken door catches. There is usually a plastic peg on the door that pushes through a hole in the tumble dryer's casing where the door catch is. Closing the door should operate a simple micro switch. If the plastic peg is broken or bent it might not operate the switch properly

Hi

If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house -- Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element -- Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse -- On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring -- A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Please do rate this solution as FixYa and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

your timer is bad,the cost of a timer is close to a new dryer.

Check the thermal disc with an OHM meter. One will be next to the heat element (high limit) and another on the air exhaust area which is the low limit.

Is this a gas dryer, if so check the thermal fuse, should be white plastic with 2 wire ports. These tend to bad first. Thanks Dave www.washermd.com

put it in the bin

Okay, the little white thingy you mention is the thermal fuse. If it were to blow, the dryer would not run at all. They usually blow like a fuse and require replacement, however, I have experienced on one occasion where the dryer would shut down in the manner you mention, and it was caused by a thermal fuse that was tripping off. I couldn't explain it, but I replaced it and the dryer worked fine after that. That could very well be a possiblity. Normally, problems like this are caused by the operating thermostat going bad. That the other thingy thats mounted next to the thermal fuse. The link I sent you should have information on how to check them. The heating element should not be considered a problem at this point. It would not cause the dryer to shut down if it were to fail. Your symptom would be a dryer that runs, but does not heat. Let em know if you have further questions.