I have an electric box in my bathroom. This box has one cable coming in (one black and one white wire) and powers a light switch and a GFCI plug. My wall had a leak and fried the GFCI so I bought a new one and now can not remeber how this box was wired. Any help is appreciated.

This is what I think is going on.
Pull the bathroom light and verify that there is only one wire going to it. I'm betting that it only has one 3cond and that it's the second one in your j-box.
Connect the 3cond from the circuit breaker to the GFI.
Pull a single black wire from the GFI over to the switch. The black in the 3cond to the light goes on the other side of the switch. White from the light goes to white on the GFI.
What the electrician did is power the light from the receptacle box.
I'd like to know if this corrects the problem and everything works.

11-1-12
Thanks for link to manual.
Solution might take more response for full clarity, and you seem a good electrician.
I have numbered two questions that may be unimportant.
Add a comment, response after 5 pm CST

Here is illustration showing Black Hot and White Neutral in attic junction box, as you described. With black-red-blue wires connected as shown in Broan manual. And each device connected to White neutral wire in junction box.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Triple-fan-light-night-light.jpg

You have access to attic, and can drop another cable down wall into switch box. This will give necessary total 4 wires between switch and Broan
http://waterheatertimer.org/OWB1.html

Key start point: Junction box in attic has the Black Hot wire and White neutral coming from circuit breaker box.
This cable powers the junction box.

There are 3 cables in junction box, each cable with black and white.
Cable from breaker box with Hot and Neutral. Cable going to light switch.
Another cable jumps power to next box in the circuit, and will be reconnected when finished, black-to-black white-to-white

Old light switch in wall was single pole.
1) How many cables are inside switch box? Just one cable from attic with black and white wire?
2) 3-way switch is the wrong switch, unless you mean 3-pole triple switch with 3 screw terminals on one side of device?

Here is another link that shows wiring choices if you decide to use 3 separate switches (or timers or occupancy sensor to turn on night light) instead of triple switch: Install triple box.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#4-f

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

First you have to identify cables.
You have 2 cables that enter box. Each cable has black and white wires.
One cable probably comes from breaker box, and one cable probably goes to Load (which means your fan-light)

Separate wires for testing. Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire. Tester lights up on Hot wire. This wire will connect to brass 'Line' screw on back of new GFCI device.
Hot is identified. Test Hot to all other wires except bare ground. Tester lights up on Neutral wire. Neutral connects to silver screw that sits across from Line screw on new GFCI device.
Other two wires inside box go to Load.
These wires connect to the two wires that stick out on back of new GFCI device.

Ground wires are connected together and connect to green screw on new device.

You are installing switch plug combo with GFCI
Device has 4 screw terminals and 2 wires.
Look at markings on back of device to determine Line and Load screws.

If you are working inside junction box, there are 3 cables for example. Each cable has black and white wires. Cable1 comes from breaker box with Line wires, cable2 goes to light fixture, cable3 goes to next switch or receptacle box in the circuit.

Cable1 Line wires come from circuit breaker: Black wire connects to brass Line screw, White to silver Line screw.
Cable2 wires to light fixture connect to wires sticking out of device and are controlled by light switch.
Cable3 wires connect to Load screws. Black wire connects to brass Load screw, White to silver Load screw. This will put GFCI protection on circuit from that point forward. If you do not want that protection, then connect cable3 on same screws as cable1.

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Ok you have GFCI combination switch-plug.

Wires coming out of back of device are connected to "Load" wires.
Load are the black and white wires that go to fan, light, motor.

The black and white wires coming from circuit breaker connect to terminals marked "Line"
Look at back of device for markings.
Black wire from breaker goes to brass screw, white wire goes to silver screw.

There is one more set of screws on device. Device usually arrives with tape over these two screws.
This is what those screws are for: If you are working in a junction box, then three cables enter box.
One cable is for Line wires from breaker box.
Second cable goes to Load (light-fan-motor) that is controlled by switch.
Third cable goes forward to another switch or outlet >> and those wires connect to last set of screws on combo device. Black to brass and white to silver.

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You purchased a GFCI outlet.
You posted under GFCI combo switch and receptacle.
If you have different device, then add a comment.

On back of device are markings that show Line and Load.
These markings are associated with screws on device.
Black Hot wire connects to Brass-colored Line screw.
White Neutral wire connects to silver screw located opposite Line screw.
If you don't know which wires are Hot and Neutral, the testing steps are shown at bottom.

Your other two wires evidently go to a light, fan, or motor that is operated by the switch.
This is where the two wires that stick out of GFCI device are used.
Your Black Load wire connects to one wire, and your White Load wire connects to other wire.

Finally there are 2 screws left on GFCI device.
These screws are used if the Hot and Neutral wires go forward to another switch or receptacle box. This would require another Black and White wire in the box, and all devices from the GFCI forward would be protected by the GFCI.
As you know, the way electric circuits work is a Black Hot and White Neutral leave the circuit breaker box and travel to a junction box. From the junction box, the Black Hot and White Neutral travel to the next box, and then the next box, and so on until the last box is reached. Each box contains a switch or plug or combo device or a light fixture. In your case, the Black Hot and White Neutral may not send power forward to another box, and may just be a switch box that has a single wire to the light fixture, and that is the end of the circuit.

How to test for Hot and Neutral wires:
Separate your 4 insulated wires.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester will light up on Hot wire.
Now Hot is Identified.
Test Hot wire to each other wire in box, except bare ground.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire.

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1) In this situation we need to test the wires.
Electricians don't guess, they test, and a diagram would be guessing which wire color does what.

2) FYI: non-GFCI receptacle located in bathroom is not code, and device will have to be replaced when property is sold. The reason for GFCI is the likelihood of you holding defective electrical gizmo from China in one hand while putting other hand in running water. Or electrical gizmo falling into bathtub occupied by wife with large life insurance policy.
If you have kids using that bathroom, I want you to avoid using non-GFCI device.

3) Your new device has color-coded screws: Dark, brass, and silver.
These colors tell electrician how to wire the device.

4) Let's test to see which wire connects to which screw:
Separate wires.
Use ordinary 2-wire tester from hardware store.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. Hot wire connects to dark-colored screw on device.
Hot wire is identified.
Test Hot wire to all other wires in box, except bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire. Neutral wire connects to silver screw, and will complete circuit to receptacle.
If box does not have a Neutral wire, the circuit to receptacle can be completed using ground wire on silver screw, but I am not recommending that.
Last wire goes to Load (light, fan, motor). Load wire connects to brass screw, and will complete circuit to Load.

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Leviton and Lutron both make GFCI switch-outlet combo.
Buy at Home Center or on-line
Leviton 7299
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-7299-NI-15-Amp-125-Volt-Combination/dp/B000UJADW6

If I understand correctly, you are replacing a single switch that has two wires.
You want to install a switch/plug-gfci similar to one shown below.

You are working on wires inside a box:
To wire this kind of device you need at least 2 cables entering the box.
Each cable has a black-white-ground wire.
Cable 1) One cable comes from breaker box. This is the Hot cable
Hot cable has black-hot-from-breaker & white-neutral-from-breaker

Cable 2) One cable goes to the Load (light, fan motor). This wire is controlled by the switch. This is the Load cable
Load cable has black-to-load & white-to-load.



Leviton combo GFCI and Switch
There are 2 screws on either side of switch
There are 2 screws to either side of plug
There are two wires on back of device

2 screws on either side of switch: there is a brass-colored screw and silver-colored screw.
Black-hot-from-breaker connects to brass colored screw on side of switch
White-neutral-from-breaker connects to silver colored screw on side of switch

2 black wires on back of device
Black-to-load connects to black wire on same side of switch as brass-colored screws
White-to-load connects to black wire on same side of switch as silver-colored screws

2 screws on either side of plug
These screws are used when your box is a 'junction' box that feeds wires forward to another box ... for example you have 4 receptacles in a room, the cable enters first box and then goes to the next box and to the next box. Suppose your switch was one of the boxes. Wire arrives from a previous box (this is the Hot cable, every box has 1 Hot cable). Your switch box sends one cable to the Load (light, fan etc), but it also sends another cable to the next box which has a receptacle or another switch.
If your box has a third cable that feeds forward to other boxes, then the screws on either side of plug are used. The black-to-next-box goes to brass screw. The white-to-next-box connects to silver screw.
And all further boxes and devices are protected by the GFCI device.

If you need more information, please answer back and I will help.

Ok this is a GFCI switch receptacle combo. You will connect the incoming cable to the incoming terminals on the Recptacle. White goes to Line (silver) terminal Blk goes to Line (brass) terminal. For the light connect the white to the load terminal (silver) Then take a short black wire and connect from the Load (brass) terminal to one of the switch therminals. Connect the remaining outgoing black wire to the other switch terminal (at bottom of switch) connect both green wires to green ground screw. (best to "pigtail" ground wires so only one wire on terminal. This will give lights GFCI protection also good for hanging lights in a bathroom.

power coming in from the breaker box: black wire will go to line-hot screw, and the white wire will go to the line-white screw. the switch wires coming out of the back of the gfci- 1 will go to the load-hot screw & the other black wire will wire nut to the black wire going to the light. the white wire going to the light must go to the load-white screw.