Fans on both indoor and outdoor units are running but compressor wont restart, even after turning power on and turning back on. also, if compressor resets and runs, it'll run for a few minutes then trips off, and it takes a while to resets. service manual doesn't says much about compressor reset time/

sounds like a bad tstat. turn power off to indoor unit, put the red green and yellow together with a wire nut at the tstat in order to bypass and turn power back on. if EVERYTHING works you have a bad Tstat.

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If the outdoor unit is running the indoor fan should definitely be running. Turn power off to indoor unit. Put red green and yellow wires together behind the tstat with a wire nut. That is power (red), indoor fan (green), and compressor (yellow.) Turn power back on. This is bypassing the tstat and you should have indoor fan and outside running as well. If yes the problem is in the tstat, if no indoor fan the problem is in the unit. Good Luck!! Let me know!!

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I'm not sure if the thermostat is wired correctly. First, the thermostat is wired directly to the outdoor unit (compressor/condenser unit). It is NOT directly connected to the indoor unit. It connects to a low voltage control panel in the outdoor unit that sends a signal to your indoor fan/evaporator. This wire is called the fan relay switch and physically runs between the low voltage controls of the indoor and outdoor units. If the fan relay is bad it's possible that the unit runs continuously. To prevent destroying your outdoor unit there is a safety feature that prevents the indoor fan from shutting down while the outdoor unit is running. If the indoor fan did shut down while the outdoor unit was running than you would slug your compressor. That is, your compressor normally sees refrigerant gas but is instead seeing refrigerant liquid. That would not be good since this scenario would destroy your compressor. It sounds like a faulty fan relay. The actual contactor portion of the relay is in the outdoor unit.

Check the air filter and if it is dirty, replace..
Turn equipment off and let the ice melt.
After ice melts, place a/c in cooling mode and set the thermostat to 3 degrees below room temp display.

The indoor unit fan should start blowing cold air immediately and then turn off once the room temp drops one degree below the cooling temp setting.
If the indoor unit does cycle off, check the outdoor unit and make sure it turns off at the same time.
If the outdoor unit continues to run and the indoor fan is not running, the indoor unit will ice up.
A defective compressor relay that is stuck in a closed position will cause icing of the indoor unit because it keeps the compressor running when it should turn off with the indoor fan.

Do you have an error code being displayed on the controller?
Is there an led light that is flashing on the indoor unit?

Another possibility causing the indoor unit to ice up is if the freon in the system starts to get low.
Make sure the ice has all melted for this next check.
Pretty easy to check without special tools.
If the air filter is clean and there is no dust/ dirt blocking the fins on the indoor unit, turn a/c back on to cool and check that the indoor unit fan comes on and is blowing air good.
Once everything seems to running good go to the outdoor unit.
There will be two lines with black rubber insulation covering them.
Peel back the insulation three inches on each line and observe the copper lines.
If either line starts to frost up the a/c system is most likely low on refrigerant.


Another cause of indoor unit icing could be that the aluminum fins behind the air filter are clogged with dust or other foreign material.
This would block the air that must be pulled in causing the indoor unit coil to become too cold due to lack of air flow and it will ice up.

Operating the cooling system when the outdoor temperature is below 60 degrees can cause the indoor unit to ice up also.

I'm Robert.
Florida certified a/c contractor. 30 years experience.
Hope this helps.

It will most likely be the capacitor which goes to the fan itself. Make sure to secure power for both indoor and outdoor unit before attempting repair. The capacitor ratings will be printed on the side. Make sure the fan spins freely first with a stick or coat hanger, then check to see if the capacitor (usually shiny metal cylinder) is bulged like
a can of spoiled food. If this is the case then it has failed for sure. Power off at both indoor unit and outdoor unit before servicing. The capacitor ratings will be printed on the side of the can for example 35/5 uf 370V which is 35 microfarads and 5 microfarads with a 370 volt rating. They can be had at most appliance parts stores
for around 13 dollars. take a cell phone picture of the wiring or make a diagram to be sure. Also check the contactor for bugs or burnt terminals while power is disconnected as this can cause this symptom. (earwigs are notorious for this). Contactor is the device
with all the wires coming to it they come in two types. single pole and double pole. Serial number of unit or a good photo of the contactor helps the parts jobber determine which you have. Hope this helps.

The indoor fan will not run at normal fan speed untill the indoor coil reaches 32oC. This is done so that a cold draught is not felt when outdoor unit is not running. Check to make sure the outdoor unit is operating. If the outdoor fan is running but there is no indoor fan after 5 mins then you must likely have a gas issue or a fault compressor circuit.

I have had this problem with a Fujitsu unit before. If the power is supplied to the outdoor unit first but unit is meant to have power supplied to indoor unit first, outdoor will only stop when power is cut off! In that case, you will have to run the power cable to the indoor unit first and then connect from appropriate terminal back to outdoor unit. (Often the indoor will stop outdoor unit by just cutting the power to it via use of a relay on the pcb.)

Every air conditioner is equipped with at least two motors, the compressor and the fan motor. It is possible for the fan motor to be defective and the compressor to be running. If this is the case the unit will appear to be running and may even sound "normal" but no air is blowing out the front or back of the unit. If, after removing the cover of the unit you discover the fan blade is very stiff and difficult to rotate, the fan motor should be replaced. If the fan blade turns freely the circuit powering the fan motor will require electrical troubleshooting. It may be necessary to have a qualified technician locate the cause of the problem, which may be either a problem with the capacitor, the selector switch or the motor itself.

Does the indoor blower come on? If not you might have a low voltage problem in your thermostat circuit or blown breaker or fuse for your furnace which energizes the contactor outdoors. If indoor blower runs check if their are any fuses in your outdoor disconnect.

a thought is , exactly what wont turn on? the indoor blower? the outdoor fan or the outdoor compressor?. be specific for goodness sakes. i assume you mean the ac wont turn on since its cold here in fla. dont know where you are since you didnt say. if it blows but not cold then outdoor unit is problem. if air out side being discharged is cool then compressor isnt running. check caps and volts through contactor. if ok check power directly into compressor. if ok the look at amps etc.