I NEED A COMPLETE FAN MOTOR/ASSEMBLY WITH THE FRONT CARRIER BEARING. DH304 DEHUMIDIFIER. THE FRONT BEARING CAME APART ALLOWING THE ARMATURE TO CONTACT THE MAGNET- DAMAGED, WILL NOT RUN FAN AT ALL NOW.

Denis, the problem could be the result of a couple of basic things.

1, The air intake filter needs to be removed and cleaned.

2. The humidity extraction level may be set to high. Lower it to 35%.

On the mechanical side: The fan motor may have failed or the wiring to the fan motor may have come loose. In addition, there is a sensor that controls the fan's operation and that may have gone bad.

With all of the above, I'm betting on one or both of the first 2 things.

Hope this helps you troubleshoot & solve the problem. Thanks for choosing FixYa.

That's an indication, that the filter needs to be removed and cleaned.
Turn the unit OFF & unplug it before removing the filter. You can vacuum the filter or if it's really dirty, wash it in warm water and dish washing liquid. Rinse thoroughly and allow to completely dry, before reinstalling. Never operate the unit without the filter installed.

If the coils continue to frost, but not defrost, they also should be cleaned.

The room temperature is probably too cold, or there's poor airflow
Here's some info that should help you figure out what's causing the problem:

If the evaporator coil is frosting completely and evenly, the most common cause is that the room temperature is too cold. Most dehumidifiers are not meant to be used when the room temperature drops much below 70°F and certainly not below 65°F (depending on humidity). There are however some models called "basement" dehumidifiers which are.

Another possible cause on standard models is poor air flow through the unit. If the fan motor is not turning fast enough (or at all) or the evaporator, condenser or filter (if used) being plugged can also cause this symptom .

I think I had the same problem as you. Mine worked completely fine for quite some time. The light for the bucket being full, or out wouldn't come on, and it didn't seem to react to anything I did. I took it apart and unplugged the adjustment knob, and it worked. Just need to put a new one in (part 6601a30006a) or it will just continue to run as if the humidity is always too high for the setting.

let the unit cool down
with power on try sticking something in there to spin the fan blade
if it spins and continues to work it is a bad capacitor (little shiny metal can sometimes oval or round)
if it doesnt spin i would have to guess the motor is bad
hope this helps

Only if ground wire had tuch something that was hot. Does your unit have a ground fault plug. If so reset plug. Sometimes thay go bad if you have had a storm in the area.

Thermostat or the temperature control module are not working properly. Also make sure that your fan blades are not broken or warped as this will cause you a problem. Also if the coils have or do get iced up then it will be a low coolant problem. But this is a thermostat or temp control problem

Take cover off. First check the fuse on the circuit board. If it's blown replace it. That should get the motor running, the motor might be or is going out. If the motor is bad you'll have to replace the motor. If the fuse is good and the motor is good, unhook the wires on circuit board that go to the humidity control switch. If the unit comes on with the humidity control switch unhooked, you'll have to replace the humidity control switch. Sears has them for about $11.50. Hope this helps.

problem fixed with the fan motor not running.

heres how i did it for anyone who experiences the same problem

1.) open back of unit(6 screws and pop tabs)

2.) with back cover open youll have access to compressor and fan-locate the blower assembly and remove the nut on it i used a 3/8 wrench from dollartree and rotated the blower fan while turning-its plastic be careful and remember righty tighty lefty loosey)

3.) with fan assembly off youll see the motor with 2 phillips head screws-taking these screws out with a power screwdriver allows the bearing assembly closest to the fan assembly,shaft,armeture and motor assembly to come out leaving rear bearing assembly attached to chassis

4.) once the motor assembly is completely out gently rest it against the fan hole and cut the silver tape being careful to ONLY cut the silver tape and the first white tape strip.

5.) youll see 3 wires and some insulator sleeves covering them leave everything alone except the ORANGE wire this wire attaches to the thermal fuse than to the windings
CAREFULLY heat up your soldering iron and remove the orange to thermal fuse connection than carefully thermal fuse to windings its a bit of a pain but can be done with patience

6.) remove original thermal fuse noting EXACTLY where original is placed on windings-it will have a small tape strip on it. replace it with one of EXACT OR NEAR THERMAL RATINGS a good choice is radioshack 270-1322. this thermal fuse is ratyed 10 amps max. but remember thermal fuses go by degree of heat and not by amp rating unless the amperage is in excess to melt the thermal material inside-my original fuse was 2 amps and 130 degrees celcius new fuse was 129degrees but plus minus 2 degrees so its a good choice and costs under 2 dollars

7.) place a heatsink clip or needlenose pliers between thermal fuse and solder connections BEFORE YOU SOLDER IT IN PLACE this prevents your 700 degree f iron from melting the fuse(remember its thermal not amperage were talking about here)
solder orange to thermal fuse with plastic extension than flat end to winding wire exactly opposite of how removed

8.) tape fuse in ORIGINAL LOCATION AS OLD FUSE i used scotch tape,place the thermal white protector piece on orange to fuse wire and push everything back down in original places-there should be no contact with any other wires etc. it will cause a fire

9.) once fuse is in place push tape you cut earlier back on and put 2 or 3 small scotch tape pieces of good length to secure the innards, lube the rear bearing of motor using vasoline- a few dollups will do it do the same for front slide motor winding assembly holding it in place than replace armeture with front bearing attaches as they came out secure the 2 screws back in place, put fan blade assembly back on(its keyed) secure nut and reassemble back

if you did everything correctly it will work like new just remember this time CLEAN YOUR FILTER SCREEN REGULARILY lol its critical for proper fan cooling

that should do it:)

Disconnect the motor leads for the fan motor, check the resistance through the motor when an Ohm meter. If you get no reading on the meter the motor is bad and needs to be replaced. also check the motor by rotating the fan. If it rotates with resistance the bearings may need lubrication. If it is a sealed bearing motor and no points for lubrication are there, replace the motor.