Replaced air filter, spark plug and sharpened blade. was able to start (though it had vibrations) and was able to mow small area of lawn. shut off mower, moved to another section to mow, and the bolt holding the blade came loose. tightened the bolt down to 60lbs and it still comes loose. so i bought a new blade (after trying to balance the old one) put loctite (blue) on the bolt, tightened it down to 60lbs again and let it sit 24 hours. tried again and the bolt still comes loose. to make matter worse, i took the blade off and tried to start it. while trying to start it the rip cord is yanked (painfully) from my hand. i put the new blade back on and now not only does the bolt come loose again, but the rip cord is still being yanked from my hand. what do i need to do now? take mower apart? do i need to take this into to a shop for repairs or is there something i can do to fix this? (my lawn needs to be mowed as i've been battling this for over a week!) toro is model 20016 (230000001+)
how would the starter/ratchet mechanism get reversed? i only removed the blade and put it back on after sharpening, and didn't take anything else apart. i can definitely break into the mower (though i don't have much experience in knowing what i'm looking for or doing but am always up for a challenge).how would the starter/ratchet mechanism get reversed? i only removed the blade and put it back on after sharpening, and didn't take anything else apart. i can definitely break into the mower (though i don't have much experience in knowing what i'm looking for or doing but am always up for a challenge).
I took the plastic guard off the top of the mower but was unable to remove the metal shroud over the the engine. I don't have a troubleshooting guide or manual to use, so I will search for one on how to take the top part apart. Any recommendations?I took the plastic guard off the top of the mower but was unable to remove the metal shroud over the the engine. I don't have a troubleshooting guide or manual to use, so I will search for one on how to take the top part apart. Any recommendations?
How would I fix this "jammed the ratchet and somehow got it facing backwards"?
Any removal hints or instuctions for "I think taking off the top will tell whether this is the case"?
"There is a very strong spring in there, so be very methodical": does this mean I need to be concerned about a spring shooting me in the face?
thanks for your assistance so far!How would I fix this "jammed the ratchet and somehow got it facing backwards"?
Any removal hints or instuctions for "I think taking off the top will tell whether this is the case"?
"There is a very strong spring in there, so be very methodical": does this mean I need to be concerned about a spring shooting me in the face?
thanks for your assistance so far!
ok, i will have a chance to look at this tomorrow evening and will let you know what happens/i find out.ok, i will have a chance to look at this tomorrow evening and will let you know what happens/i find out.
i was able to get the rewind/recoil starter off. it appears to be fine. i think the problem may be a sheared flywheel key. but i can't confirm that without getting the flywheel nut off. trying to loosen the nut caused the blade to turn, so i'm going to need to block off the blade. (i used some wd40 and am letting it sit overnight). if i need to pull the flywheel though to get to the key, i'm going to need to get a flywheel or steering wheel puller (i don't have either). besides the flywheel key, could there be something else affecting the timing? some other part i may be overlooking?i was able to get the rewind/recoil starter off. it appears to be fine. i think the problem may be a sheared flywheel key. but i can't confirm that without getting the flywheel nut off. trying to loosen the nut caused the blade to turn, so i'm going to need to block off the blade. (i used some wd40 and am letting it sit overnight). if i need to pull the flywheel though to get to the key, i'm going to need to get a flywheel or steering wheel puller (i don't have either).
besides the flywheel key, could there be something else affecting the timing? some other part i may be overlooking?
i found this site which may prove helpful as well:http://www.freeengineinfo.com/sheared-ke...i found this site which may prove helpful as well: http://www.freeengineinfo.com/sheared-keyway.htm#more-162
the cord doesn't appear to be wound backwards. and yes, the engine was running but only for a short period of time (though there was some vibration/clanking occurring - same sound it was making before it loosened the blade bolt). now however, it does not start or run. i think it's possible the flywheel key was just damaged a bit when it would still run but now it's probably completely sheared off. i suppose it's possible i damaged the flywheel key if i turned the blade backwards at some point when trying to install the blade back onto the blade driver assembly. (i need to check the blade driver assembly now too to ensure it is not warped/bent.) from all the additional research i've been doing too, it's possible since i was trying to start the mower without the blade, this (and the damaged flywheel key) is the reason the mower wants to rip my arm off. i do have an air compressor, so will try to get the air tool in the next day or so. (i will hold off on the torch suggestion for now - don't need to light myself up just yet!) then i need to figure out how to get the flywheel off (with a flywheel or steering wheel puller or some other mechanism/tools).the cord doesn't appear to be wound backwards. and yes, the engine was running but only for a short period of time (though there was some vibration/clanking occurring - same sound it was making before it loosened the blade bolt). now however, it does not start or run.
i think it's possible the flywheel key was just damaged a bit when it would still run but now it's probably completely sheared off. i suppose it's possible i damaged the flywheel key if i turned the blade backwards at some point when trying to install the blade back onto the blade driver assembly. (i need to check the blade driver assembly now too to ensure it is not warped/bent.)
from all the additional research i've been doing too, it's possible since i was trying to start the mower without the blade, this (and the damaged flywheel key) is the reason the mower wants to rip my arm off.
i do have an air compressor, so will try to get the air tool in the next day or so. (i will hold off on the torch suggestion for now - don't need to light myself up just yet!) then i need to figure out how to get the flywheel off (with a flywheel or steering wheel puller or some other mechanism/tools).
ok the problem is solved. i was able to remove the flywheel nut using just regular force (after blocking off the blade with a 2x4 to keep it from moving). i tapped the 3 holes on the flywheel first though since they weren't threaded which was pretty easy using 1/4inch 20national tap set. using a harmonic balancer puller from schucks (since it matched the tecumseh bolt pattern on the flywheel), 3 1/4inch thread (20national, 2inch long) bolts with washers (again with the blade blocked from moving), i was able to get the flywheel off (i didn't have to hit the flywheel at all). the flywheel key was definitely sheared! before putting the new flywheel key in, i tightened down the blade to manufacturer's spec of 60lbs (so as to not shear the key again - if i did that last time). i replaced the flywheel key (part 611004 for toro 20016). then i cleaned up the flywheel (just wiped off all the dirt and grease), put it all back together (pulled the ball-brake on the bail handle to get the brake inside the flywheel) and tightened it down to manufacturer's spec of 37.5lbs. primed the gas bulb, gave it one pull and it started up like a champ! for never having done this type of work before, it went off without a hitch. i might take the harmonic balancer puller back and build my own puller for the future though (dad-n-law is a welder so he might be able to get me the metal). thanks for the help. ok the problem is solved. i was able to remove the flywheel nut using just regular force (after blocking off the blade with a 2x4 to keep it from moving). i tapped the 3 holes on the flywheel first though since they weren't threaded which was pretty easy using 1/4inch 20national tap set. using a harmonic balancer puller from schucks (since it matched the tecumseh bolt pattern on the flywheel), 3 1/4inch thread (20national, 2inch long) bolts with washers (again with the blade blocked from moving), i was able to get the flywheel off (i didn't have to hit the flywheel at all). the flywheel key was definitely sheared! before putting the new flywheel key in, i tightened down the blade to manufacturer's spec of 60lbs (so as to not shear the key again - if i did that last time). i replaced the flywheel key (part 611004 for toro 20016). then i cleaned up the flywheel (just wiped off all the dirt and grease), put it all back together (pulled the ball-brake on the bail handle to get the brake inside the flywheel) and tightened it down to manufacturer's spec of 37.5lbs. primed the gas bulb, gave it one pull and it started up like a champ! for never having done this type of work before, it went off without a hitch. i might take the harmonic balancer puller back and build my own puller for the future though (dad-n-law is a welder so he might be able to get me the metal). thanks for the help.
ok the problem is solved. i was able to remove the flywheel nut using just regular force (after blocking off the blade with a 2x4 to keep it from moving). i tapped the 3 holes on the flywheel first though since they weren't threaded which was pretty easy using 1/4inch 20national tap set. using a harmonic balancer puller from schucks (since it matched the tecumseh bolt pattern on the flywheel), 3 1/4inch thread (20national, 2inch long) bolts with washers (again with the blade blocked from moving), i was able to get the flywheel off (i didn't have to hit the flywheel at all). the flywheel key was definitely sheared! before putting the new flywheel key in, i tightened down the blade to manufacturer's spec of 60lbs (so as to not shear the key again - if i did that last time). i replaced the flywheel key (part 611004 for toro 20016). then i cleaned up the flywheel (just wiped off all the dirt and grease), put it all back together (pulled the ball-brake on the bail handle to get the brake inside the flywheel) and tightened it down to manufacturer's spec of 37.5lbs. primed the gas bulb, gave it one pull and it started up like a champ! for never having done this type of work before, it went off without a hitch. i might take the harmonic balancer puller back and build my own puller for the future though (dad-n-law is a welder so he might be able to get me the metal). thanks for the help. ok the problem is solved. i was able to remove the flywheel nut using just regular force (after blocking off the blade with a 2x4 to keep it from moving). i tapped the 3 holes on the flywheel first though since they weren't threaded which was pretty easy using 1/4inch 20national tap set. using a harmonic balancer puller from schucks (since it matched the tecumseh bolt pattern on the flywheel), 3 1/4inch thread (20national, 2inch long) bolts with washers (again with the blade blocked from moving), i was able to get the flywheel off (i didn't have to hit the flywheel at all). the flywheel key was definitely sheared! before putting the new flywheel key in, i tightened down the blade to manufacturer's spec of 60lbs (so as to not shear the key again - if i did that last time). i replaced the flywheel key (part 611004 for toro 20016). then i cleaned up the flywheel (just wiped off all the dirt and grease), put it all back together (pulled the ball-brake on the bail handle to get the brake inside the flywheel) and tightened it down to manufacturer's spec of 37.5lbs. primed the gas bulb, gave it one pull and it started up like a champ! for never having done this type of work before, it went off without a hitch. i might take the harmonic balancer puller back and build my own puller for the future though (dad-n-law is a welder so he might be able to get me the metal). thanks for the help.
ok the problem is solved. i was able to remove the flywheel nut using just regular force (after blocking off the blade with a 2x4 to keep it from moving). i tapped the 3 holes on the flywheel first though since they weren't threaded which was pretty easy using 1/4inch 20national tap set. using a harmonic balancer puller from schucks (since it matched the tecumseh bolt pattern on the flywheel), 3 1/4inch thread (20national, 2inch long) bolts with washers (again with the blade blocked from moving), i was able to get the flywheel off (i didn't have to hit the flywheel at all). the flywheel key was definitely sheared! before putting the new flywheel key in, i tightened down the blade to manufacturer's spec of 60lbs (so as to not shear the key again - if i did that last time). i replaced the flywheel key (part 611004 for toro 20016). then i cleaned up the flywheel (just wiped off all the dirt and grease), put it all back together (pulled the ball-brake on the bail handle to get the brake inside the flywheel) and tightened it down to manufacturer's spec of 37.5lbs. primed the gas bulb, gave it one pull and it started up like a champ! for never having done this type of work before, it went off without a hitch. i might take the harmonic balancer puller back and build my own puller for the future though (dad-n-law is a welder so he might be able to get me the metal). thanks for the help. ok the problem is solved. i was able to remove the flywheel nut using just regular force (after blocking off the blade with a 2x4 to keep it from moving). i tapped the 3 holes on the flywheel first though since they weren't threaded which was pretty easy using 1/4inch 20national tap set. using a harmonic balancer puller from schucks (since it matched the tecumseh bolt pattern on the flywheel), 3 1/4inch thread (20national, 2inch long) bolts with washers (again with the blade blocked from moving), i was able to get the flywheel off (i didn't have to hit the flywheel at all). the flywheel key was definitely sheared! before putting the new flywheel key in, i tightened down the blade to manufacturer's spec of 60lbs (so as to not shear the key again - if i did that last time). i replaced the flywheel key (part 611004 for toro 20016). then i cleaned up the flywheel (just wiped off all the dirt and grease), put it all back together (pulled the ball-brake on the bail handle to get the brake inside the flywheel) and tightened it down to manufacturer's spec of 37.5lbs. primed the gas bulb, gave it one pull and it started up like a champ! for never having done this type of work before, it went off without a hitch. i might take the harmonic balancer puller back and build my own puller for the future though (dad-n-law is a welder so he might be able to get me the metal). thanks for the help.
ok the problem is solved. i was able to remove the flywheel nut using just regular force (after blocking off the blade with a 2x4 to keep it from moving). i tapped the 3 holes on the flywheel first though since they weren't threaded which was pretty easy using 1/4inch 20national tap set. using a harmonic balancer puller from schucks (since it matched the tecumseh bolt pattern on the flywheel), 3 1/4inch thread (20national, 2inch long) bolts with washers (again with the blade blocked from moving), i was able to get the flywheel off (i didn't have to hit the flywheel at all). the flywheel key was definitely sheared! before putting the new flywheel key in, i tightened down the blade to manufacturer's spec of 60lbs (so as to not shear the key again - if i did that last time). i replaced the flywheel key (part 611004 for toro 20016). then i cleaned up the flywheel (just wiped off all the dirt and grease), put it all back together (pulled the ball-brake on the bail handle to get the brake inside the flywheel) and tightened it down to manufacturer's spec of 37.5lbs. primed the gas bulb, gave it one pull and it started up like a champ! for never having done this type of work before, it went off without a hitch. i might take the harmonic balancer puller back and build my own puller for the future though (dad-n-law is a welder so he might be able to get me the metal). thanks for the help.
ok the problem is solved. i was able to remove the flywheel nut using just regular force (after blocking off the blade with a 2x4 to keep it from moving). i tapped the 3 holes on the flywheel first though since they weren't threaded which was pretty easy using 1/4inch 20national tap set. using a harmonic balancer puller from schucks (since it matched the tecumseh bolt pattern on the flywheel), 3 1/4inch thread (20national, 2inch long) bolts with washers (again with the blade blocked from moving), i was able to get the flywheel off (i didn't have to hit the flywheel at all). the flywheel key was definitely sheared! before putting the new flywheel key in, i tightened down the blade to manufacturer's spec of 60lbs (so as to not shear the key again - if i did that last time). i replaced the flywheel key (part 611004 for toro 20016). then i cleaned up the flywheel (just wiped off all the dirt and grease), put it all back together (pulled the ball-brake on the bail handle to get the brake inside the flywheel) and tightened it down to manufacturer's spec of 37.5lbs. primed the gas bulb, gave it one pull and it started up like a champ! for never having done this type of work before, it went off without a hitch. i might take the harmonic balancer puller back and build my own puller for the future though (dad-n-law is a welder so he might be able to get me the metal). thanks for the help.
"besides the flywheel key, could there be something else affecting the timing? some other part i may be overlooking?" I don't think the timing is off, since the engine was running -- it was running, correct? If timing is off it will either run very roughly or not at all -- the timing doesn't have to be very far off for it not to run at all. Did you notice if the cord is wound backwards. I'm still thinking the engine is running backwards -- that's the only explanation I can see for the blade bolts coming loose -- especially after being torqued to 60 ft-lbs. I looked at the web page you included. The reference to the air ratchet is the best way to get the nut off -- do you have an air compressor? If so, the air tool is only about $20. Good luck , and thanks for keeping me posted!! Charlie P.S. WD-40 doesn't work as well on seized nuts/bolts as something like liquid wrench or PB Blaster -- the latter is supposed to be the best, but I've never noticed much difference between the two. A torch on the nut (not the bolt) almost always works as a last resort. But around a gas tank, it's not a good idea unless all the gas is drained from the carburetor/tank/lines and left to dry for a while -- even then there is still a risk."besides the flywheel key, could there be something else affecting the timing? some other part i may be overlooking?" I don't think the timing is off, since the engine was running -- it was running, correct? If timing is off it will either run very roughly or not at all -- the timing doesn't have to be very far off for it not to run at all. Did you notice if the cord is wound backwards. I'm still thinking the engine is running backwards -- that's the only explanation I can see for the blade bolts coming loose -- especially after being torqued to 60 ft-lbs. I looked at the web page you included. The reference to the air ratchet is the best way to get the nut off -- do you have an air compressor? If so, the air tool is only about $20. Good luck , and thanks for keeping me posted!! Charlie P.S. WD-40 doesn't work as well on seized nuts/bolts as something like liquid wrench or PB Blaster -- the latter is supposed to be the best, but I've never noticed much difference between the two. A torch on the nut (not the bolt) almost always works as a last resort. But around a gas tank, it's not a good idea unless all the gas is drained from the carburetor/tank/lines and left to dry for a while -- even then there is still a risk.
When you take off the top, look for the pull cord to be wrapped around the starter backwards. I'm pretty sure all these engines turn clockwise looking down on them. This means the cord on this one would be wrapped counterclockwise, if the theory holds. I found this little tidbit in Wikipedia: "Regular petrol two-stroke engines will run backwards with little problem, and this has been used to provide a "reversing" facility in microcars such as the Messerschmitt KR200 that lacked reverse gearing. Where the vehicle has electric starting, the motor will be turned off and re-started backwards by turning the key in the opposite direction"..... CharlieWhen you take off the top, look for the pull cord to be wrapped around the starter backwards. I'm pretty sure all these engines turn clockwise looking down on them. This means the cord on this one would be wrapped counterclockwise, if the theory holds. I found this little tidbit in Wikipedia: "Regular petrol two-stroke engines will run backwards with little problem, and this has been used to provide a "reversing" facility in microcars such as the Messerschmitt KR200 that lacked reverse gearing. Where the vehicle has electric starting, the motor will be turned off and re-started backwards by turning the key in the opposite direction"..... Charlie
It is possible that the spring could go wild on you. It would not "jump" out/up -- it's a flat piece of spring metal which is wrapped around the inside. Keep gloved hands on it while taking it off until you can be assured it's going to stay in place... CharlieIt is possible that the spring could go wild on you. It would not "jump" out/up -- it's a flat piece of spring metal which is wrapped around the inside. Keep gloved hands on it while taking it off until you can be assured it's going to stay in place... Charlie
Is it loose and just won't clear the top of the engine to come off? It should have bolts/screws holding it to the block -- but not being there to see it, it's very difficult to give good help on this.... CharlieIs it loose and just won't clear the top of the engine to come off? It should have bolts/screws holding it to the block -- but not being there to see it, it's very difficult to give good help on this.... Charlie
Upon further pondering, I'm becoming convinced that the engine is running backwards -- the vibration is another clue which supports that. I'm guessing the mower didn't cut very well either, since the dull edge of the blade was being used. Anxious to hear what you find when you remove the top of the mower. CharlieUpon further pondering, I'm becoming convinced that the engine is running backwards -- the vibration is another clue which supports that. I'm guessing the mower didn't cut very well either, since the dull edge of the blade was being used. Anxious to hear what you find when you remove the top of the mower. Charlie
The rope crank mechanism is geared to the flywheel, the flywheel to the crank, the crank to the blade. I'm thinking that the blade/crank was turned back/forth enough during the changing process, to turn the flywheel which jammed the ratchet and somehow got it facing backwards. (I think I have that visualized.) I think taking off the top will tell whether this is the case. There is a very strong spring in there, so be very methodical. CharlieThe rope crank mechanism is geared to the flywheel, the flywheel to the crank, the crank to the blade. I'm thinking that the blade/crank was turned back/forth enough during the changing process, to turn the flywheel which jammed the ratchet and somehow got it facing backwards. (I think I have that visualized.) I think taking off the top will tell whether this is the case. There is a very strong spring in there, so be very methodical. Charlie
Sounds like the engine is running backwards -- never heard of this, but it would explain: cord being pulled from your hand (painfully), and blades coming off. Sounds like the pull starter/ratchet mechanism got reversed when you were working on the blades and the engine is turned in the opposite direction when you pull the rope. I know it sounds crazy -- I'm beginning to wonder about myself. If this indeed is miraculously the problem, I think taking off the pull starter and sorting that out would solve the problem. CharlieSounds like the engine is running backwards -- never heard of this, but it would explain: cord being pulled from your hand (painfully), and blades coming off. Sounds like the pull starter/ratchet mechanism got reversed when you were working on the blades and the engine is turned in the opposite direction when you pull the rope. I know it sounds crazy -- I'm beginning to wonder about myself. If this indeed is miraculously the problem, I think taking off the pull starter and sorting that out would solve the problem. Charlie
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Re: bolt comes loose and rip cord is yanked from hand
block off the blade and driver assembly with a 2x4 to keep it from moving
remove the flywheel nut (regular hand force should be sufficient)
tap the 3 holes on the flywheel (if they aren't already threaded) using 1/4inch 20national tap set
remove the flywheel using a flywheel puller -- a harmonic balancer puller which matches the tecumseh bolt pattern on the flywheel also works using 3 1/4inch thread (20national, 2inch long) bolts with washers
NOTE: (if the blade was removed/reinstalled, tighten the blade to manufacturer's spec of 60lbs) before installing the new flywheel key
remove the sheared flywheel key
clean up the flywheel (wipe off all the dirt and grease)
install the new flywheel key (part 611004 for toro 20016)
install the flywheel (pull the bail brake handle to get the ball-brake inside the flywheel)
tighten the flywheel nut to manufacturer's spec of 37.5lbs
prime the gas bulb, give it a pull and mow away
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Since you put it on its side, you most likely dumped all the oil from the crank area to the cylinder and carburetor. What you need to do is check engine oil to be sure it is full. Then take air filter off, clean the carburetor with carb cleaner. Remove spark plug, clean spark plug with carb cleaner. Pull the cord about a dozen times WITH THE SPARK Plug removed. Then install spark plug and try to start.
Hi Bill:
Changing blades is pretty straightforward but does involve some Safety Hazards.
- Blades can have sharp bits - WEAR GLOVES
- Running engines can make the blade BITE - BAD
ALWAYS disconnect spark plug lead whaen changing blade.
Easy Part:
- Raise deck to maximum height
- If possible, park with front wheels on a ramp to get better access under deck.
- Use socket wrench to remove bolt from centre of blade. Here's where the gloves help as you hold the end of the blade to prevent it from turning when you apply force to remove the bolt. TA DA! The blade will come off.
- To install new or sharpened blade (I use an angle grinder to sharpen mine) tuck it in place, install the bolt, snug it up, make sure any notches or splines line up, protect your hands (gloves) while you tighten the bolt. and you're back to cutting grass.
Cheerfuls.
I had the same problem twice. The first time happened when the blades were not swinging freely because they got gummed up with grass. So make sure your blades pivot easily.
The second time happened when the nuts came loose from the blade driver (the part underneath the deck that the large bolt goes through to hold on the blade assembly). I had taken the Swisher to a small engine repair place for servicing. They removed the blade assembly to sharpen the blades while it was there but put the old lock nuts back on without using any Locktight, so the nuts started to come off while I was cutting. Unfortunately, I did not notice this until after the blade driver got very loose and then got reamed out by the wobbling of the large blade assembly bolt. I had to replace the blade driver and its bolts and nuts.
The blades on you rotary lawn mower could well be dull. I does not take to long for them to become dull. Figure about 8 hours of cutting. They are quite easy to sharpen. The blades can sometimes be sharpened on the machine, but it is much easier to remove the blade.
1 pull the wire going to the spark plug off the spark plug (this is so it won't start with your hands in the way. then tip it to one side. but make sure you do not spill gas everywhere. Then remove the blade there is generally a bolt in the center holding it on
- -this bolt of quite often reverse threaded- -
your manual will have any specific information on removing the blade.
then using a file, bench grinder, or a purpose built sharpener sharpen the blade. It generally is only beveled on one side. don't take off very much material from the blade and make sure it balances before you put it back. Make sure it is on correctly, and that the bolt is properly tightened. No way do you want that geting loose
probably sheered fly wheel key also check to make sure crank shaft is not bent. lay mower on side air cleaner up remove spark plug wire have some one watch blade bolt while u pull rope bolt should turn with out wobble.
Im guessing that you have started it before, so I guess ,
check that its not flooding ,pull air filter out see If you can see heaps of fuel in the bottom hole ,if you do take spark plug out pull cord a few times without holding start cable or you will catch on fire replace spark plug try starting ,no start still flooding take it to a lawn mower place ,float may have a hole in it , if not flooding, on the bottom of the cardy one brass nut , four holes find them clear then, start also a brass pipe going into the center of the carby is probable blocked
try just the wire itself. make sure there is a bare spot on the block and see if there is a spark... if so it is possible that the spark plug is defective (it does happen)
what is the model, manufacturer and year of mower?
has any maintenance been performed on this mower?
if no, try replacing the spark plug and air filter (it's possible the spark plug could be fouled and/or the air filter is clogged) be sure to follow the manufacturers recommendations for oil, gas, filters and plugs.
This is a nice mower, it has a Honda engine. The blade bolts onto a "blade brake clutch" which is why you see 3 bolts. Removing the two outer bolts should release the blade. Normally these bolts are about 1/4" to 5/16" diameter at the threads, and have split washers to prevent them from accidentally coming loose from vibration or impact.
Here's the steps I use when replacing the blade:
Pull the spark plug wire off the spark plug.
Lay the mower over on it's side (gas filler cap should be up, so whichever side allows the gass filler cap to end up on the high side of the engine).
Find a wrench that properly fits the blade bolts.
If right-handed; wearing a garden or protective work glove on the left hand, grasp the blade.
Unbolt both bolts by turning in a counter-clockwise direction (left circular direction).
Remove the bolts being sure not to lose the locking washers.
Pull the blade off the blade mount (sometimes a light tap is necessary to loosen the blade from the blade mount).
Replace the blade with the exact Sears part number (diagram and parts list attached below).
Thread the bolts back on using your fingers to get them started - don't force them if they start to bind or you'll cross-thread them; bad thing).
Snug the bolts down tight, sufficient to compress the locking washers flat.
Don't overtighten, they need to be tight, but if you use a long handle wrench or ratchet drive you can cause them to break or fail while the balde is spinning, another bad thing. Tighten them snug assuring the washers compressed flat.
Turn the mower back upright onto its wheels.
Replace the spark plug wire back onto the spark plug.
Leave sit for 30 minutes before starting to assure the oil has returned level in the engine before you attempt to start the engine.
how would the starter/ratchet mechanism get reversed? i only removed the blade and put it back on after sharpening, and didn't take anything else apart. i can definitely break into the mower (though i don't have much experience in knowing what i'm looking for or doing but am always up for a challenge).
I took the plastic guard off the top of the mower but was unable to remove the metal shroud over the the engine. I don't have a troubleshooting guide or manual to use, so I will search for one on how to take the top part apart. Any recommendations?
How would I fix this "jammed the ratchet and somehow got it facing backwards"?
Any removal hints or instuctions for "I think taking off the top will tell whether this is the case"?
"There is a very strong spring in there, so be very methodical": does this mean I need to be concerned about a spring shooting me in the face?
thanks for your assistance so far!
ok, i will have a chance to look at this tomorrow evening and will let you know what happens/i find out.
i was able to get the rewind/recoil starter off. it appears to be fine. i think the problem may be a sheared flywheel key. but i can't confirm that without getting the flywheel nut off. trying to loosen the nut caused the blade to turn, so i'm going to need to block off the blade. (i used some wd40 and am letting it sit overnight). if i need to pull the flywheel though to get to the key, i'm going to need to get a flywheel or steering wheel puller (i don't have either).
besides the flywheel key, could there be something else affecting the timing? some other part i may be overlooking?
i found this site which may prove helpful as well:http://www.freeengineinfo.com/sheared-ke...
the cord doesn't appear to be wound backwards. and yes, the engine was running but only for a short period of time (though there was some vibration/clanking occurring - same sound it was making before it loosened the blade bolt). now however, it does not start or run.
i think it's possible the flywheel key was just damaged a bit when it would still run but now it's probably completely sheared off. i suppose it's possible i damaged the flywheel key if i turned the blade backwards at some point when trying to install the blade back onto the blade driver assembly. (i need to check the blade driver assembly now too to ensure it is not warped/bent.)
from all the additional research i've been doing too, it's possible since i was trying to start the mower without the blade, this (and the damaged flywheel key) is the reason the mower wants to rip my arm off.
i do have an air compressor, so will try to get the air tool in the next day or so. (i will hold off on the torch suggestion for now - don't need to light myself up just yet!) then i need to figure out how to get the flywheel off (with a flywheel or steering wheel puller or some other mechanism/tools).
ok the problem is solved. i was able to remove the flywheel nut using just regular force (after blocking off the blade with a 2x4 to keep it from moving). i tapped the 3 holes on the flywheel first though since they weren't threaded which was pretty easy using 1/4inch 20national tap set. using a harmonic balancer puller from schucks (since it matched the tecumseh bolt pattern on the flywheel), 3 1/4inch thread (20national, 2inch long) bolts with washers (again with the blade blocked from moving), i was able to get the flywheel off (i didn't have to hit the flywheel at all). the flywheel key was definitely sheared! before putting the new flywheel key in, i tightened down the blade to manufacturer's spec of 60lbs (so as to not shear the key again - if i did that last time). i replaced the flywheel key (part 611004 for toro 20016). then i cleaned up the flywheel (just wiped off all the dirt and grease), put it all back together (pulled the ball-brake on the bail handle to get the brake inside the flywheel) and tightened it down to manufacturer's spec of 37.5lbs. primed the gas bulb, gave it one pull and it started up like a champ!
for never having done this type of work before, it went off without a hitch. i might take the harmonic balancer puller back and build my own puller for the future though (dad-n-law is a welder so he might be able to get me the metal). thanks for the help.
ok the problem is solved. i was able to remove the flywheel nut using just regular force (after blocking off the blade with a 2x4 to keep it from moving). i tapped the 3 holes on the flywheel first though since they weren't threaded which was pretty easy using 1/4inch 20national tap set. using a harmonic balancer puller from schucks (since it matched the tecumseh bolt pattern on the flywheel), 3 1/4inch thread (20national, 2inch long) bolts with washers (again with the blade blocked from moving), i was able to get the flywheel off (i didn't have to hit the flywheel at all). the flywheel key was definitely sheared! before putting the new flywheel key in, i tightened down the blade to manufacturer's spec of 60lbs (so as to not shear the key again - if i did that last time). i replaced the flywheel key (part 611004 for toro 20016). then i cleaned up the flywheel (just wiped off all the dirt and grease), put it all back together (pulled the ball-brake on the bail handle to get the brake inside the flywheel) and tightened it down to manufacturer's spec of 37.5lbs. primed the gas bulb, gave it one pull and it started up like a champ!
for never having done this type of work before, it went off without a hitch. i might take the harmonic balancer puller back and build my own puller for the future though (dad-n-law is a welder so he might be able to get me the metal). thanks for the help.
ok the problem is solved. i was able to remove the flywheel nut using just regular force (after blocking off the blade with a 2x4 to keep it from moving). i tapped the 3 holes on the flywheel first though since they weren't threaded which was pretty easy using 1/4inch 20national tap set. using a harmonic balancer puller from schucks (since it matched the tecumseh bolt pattern on the flywheel), 3 1/4inch thread (20national, 2inch long) bolts with washers (again with the blade blocked from moving), i was able to get the flywheel off (i didn't have to hit the flywheel at all). the flywheel key was definitely sheared! before putting the new flywheel key in, i tightened down the blade to manufacturer's spec of 60lbs (so as to not shear the key again - if i did that last time). i replaced the flywheel key (part 611004 for toro 20016). then i cleaned up the flywheel (just wiped off all the dirt and grease), put it all back together (pulled the ball-brake on the bail handle to get the brake inside the flywheel) and tightened it down to manufacturer's spec of 37.5lbs. primed the gas bulb, gave it one pull and it started up like a champ!
for never having done this type of work before, it went off without a hitch. i might take the harmonic balancer puller back and build my own puller for the future though (dad-n-law is a welder so he might be able to get me the metal). thanks for the help.
ok the problem is solved. i was able to remove the flywheel nut using just regular force (after blocking off the blade with a 2x4 to keep it from moving). i tapped the 3 holes on the flywheel first though since they weren't threaded which was pretty easy using 1/4inch 20national tap set. using a harmonic balancer puller from schucks (since it matched the tecumseh bolt pattern on the flywheel), 3 1/4inch thread (20national, 2inch long) bolts with washers (again with the blade blocked from moving), i was able to get the flywheel off (i didn't have to hit the flywheel at all). the flywheel key was definitely sheared! before putting the new flywheel key in, i tightened down the blade to manufacturer's spec of 60lbs (so as to not shear the key again - if i did that last time). i replaced the flywheel key (part 611004 for toro 20016). then i cleaned up the flywheel (just wiped off all the dirt and grease), put it all back together (pulled the ball-brake on the bail handle to get the brake inside the flywheel) and tightened it down to manufacturer's spec of 37.5lbs. primed the gas bulb, gave it one pull and it started up like a champ!
for never having done this type of work before, it went off without a hitch. i might take the harmonic balancer puller back and build my own puller for the future though (dad-n-law is a welder so he might be able to get me the metal). thanks for the help.
"besides the flywheel key, could there be something else affecting the timing? some other part i may be overlooking?" I don't think the timing is off, since the engine was running -- it was running, correct? If timing is off it will either run very roughly or not at all -- the timing doesn't have to be very far off for it not to run at all. Did you notice if the cord is wound backwards. I'm still thinking the engine is running backwards -- that's the only explanation I can see for the blade bolts coming loose -- especially after being torqued to 60 ft-lbs. I looked at the web page you included. The reference to the air ratchet is the best way to get the nut off -- do you have an air compressor? If so, the air tool is only about $20. Good luck , and thanks for keeping me posted!! Charlie P.S. WD-40 doesn't work as well on seized nuts/bolts as something like liquid wrench or PB Blaster -- the latter is supposed to be the best, but I've never noticed much difference between the two. A torch on the nut (not the bolt) almost always works as a last resort. But around a gas tank, it's not a good idea unless all the gas is drained from the carburetor/tank/lines and left to dry for a while -- even then there is still a risk.
When you take off the top, look for the pull cord to be wrapped around the starter backwards. I'm pretty sure all these engines turn clockwise looking down on them. This means the cord on this one would be wrapped counterclockwise, if the theory holds. I found this little tidbit in Wikipedia: "Regular petrol two-stroke engines will run backwards with little problem, and this has been used to provide a "reversing" facility in microcars such as the Messerschmitt KR200 that lacked reverse gearing. Where the vehicle has electric starting, the motor will be turned off and re-started backwards by turning the key in the opposite direction"..... Charlie
It is possible that the spring could go wild on you. It would not "jump" out/up -- it's a flat piece of spring metal which is wrapped around the inside. Keep gloved hands on it while taking it off until you can be assured it's going to stay in place... Charlie
Is it loose and just won't clear the top of the engine to come off? It should have bolts/screws holding it to the block -- but not being there to see it, it's very difficult to give good help on this.... Charlie
Upon further pondering, I'm becoming convinced that the engine is running backwards -- the vibration is another clue which supports that. I'm guessing the mower didn't cut very well either, since the dull edge of the blade was being used. Anxious to hear what you find when you remove the top of the mower. Charlie
The rope crank mechanism is geared to the flywheel, the flywheel to the crank, the crank to the blade. I'm thinking that the blade/crank was turned back/forth enough during the changing process, to turn the flywheel which jammed the ratchet and somehow got it facing backwards. (I think I have that visualized.) I think taking off the top will tell whether this is the case. There is a very strong spring in there, so be very methodical. Charlie
Sounds like the engine is running backwards -- never heard of this, but it would explain: cord being pulled from your hand (painfully), and blades coming off. Sounds like the pull starter/ratchet mechanism got reversed when you were working on the blades and the engine is turned in the opposite direction when you pull the rope. I know it sounds crazy -- I'm beginning to wonder about myself. If this indeed is miraculously the problem, I think taking off the pull starter and sorting that out would solve the problem. Charlie
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