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gregory gaddis Posted on Jun 20, 2019
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American standard communicating air handler and heat pump blower wont come on new board 4 months ago any way to check the variable speed blower motor

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Thomas Woodburn

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  • Master 2,638 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 21, 2019
Thomas Woodburn
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High and low voltage AT the motor with no motor function is a bad motor. Should have 12 to 13 volts DC on r+ and r- (I believe are the correct terminals) You must test this when the machine is trying to run. Yes, it's dangerous, hire a licensed contractor!!

4 Related Answers

Lou Barta

  • 189 Answers
  • Posted on May 08, 2009

SOURCE: What tonnage are these units and is it a variable speed.

The heat pump model number shows that it is a two and a half ton unit. I am sorry but I am not familiar with the air handler model number.

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Anonymous

  • 70 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 28, 2009

SOURCE: American Standard blower will not run

Sounds like motor has failed. If the red light is blinking it may be telling you what is wrong by the number of blinks. It maybe locked out for some reason or loose wire. Try turning off breakers to inside unit for 5 mins and try again, this may reset unit. But it sounds like a bad motor or circut board. Try running with stat in on position instead of auto in cooling mode.

Anonymous

  • 37 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 27, 2011

SOURCE: Amana heat pump/AEPF variable spd

Open the airhandler -should be a speed selector on the main board. If not -checkt he installation/set-up manual. May be some dip switches you can turn on or off to modify blower speed.

Anonymous

  • 246 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 10, 2011

SOURCE: 1 year old system 16

If everything (inside/outside units) is running 'constantly' and you are not getting any cooling there are several things that could be wrong, and I will list them below in the order I think most likely based on the limited knowledge I have about your problem.

1. Often customers will say 'everything' is running when in actuality everything is running with the exception of the 'compressor.' The reason being is that the compressor has an unique running noise which is not easily recognized by the customer. A serviceperson who works on Air Conditioners can pick it (the sound of the compressor) up - simply because they are accustomed to it and it is easily recognized. Therefore, I am unsure whether or not your compressor is running although I do think you inside and outside fan motors are running. All that being said - the fact that you are not getting cooling indicates to me that your compressor is either (A) not running or (B) the system is 'out & or very low' on refrigerant (which will cause the compressor to run very quiet and make it difficult for even an experienced serviceperson to hear it.

Often when encountering systems out of low on refrigerant I've had to actually feel the compressor
(with the system running) to determine whether or not the compressor was running. If you are mechanically inclined and want to determine if your compressor is running - I will just tell you to be very careful when putting your hands in and around electrical components.

One of the things I've done in the past when a little hesitant to actually touch the compressor (with system running) but still wanting to know if it (compressor) is running is to take a long screwdriver and hold the tip to the compressor - therefore being able to pick up the vibration of the compressor (which is out of gas or very low). If you do this and feel the vibration of the compressor and then know that it's running you have the infomation needed to understand that your system is either out of or very low on refrigerant.

If, however, you determine that the compressor 'is not' running I would bet that when you TURN THE SYSTEM OFF AND MAKE SURE ALL POWER IS OFF - and hold your hand on the compressor it will be very warm/very hot - which indicates that it has heated up and went 'off' on internal overload. You could still be experiencing the problem - of lack of refrigerant - because when the refrigerant level is low the compressor 'will' heat up.

However, is also possible (and more likely) that the compressor is 'off and hot' because it has broken down 'electrically' which can be caused by various factors - chief of which is - it is mechanically/electrically wore out and needs replacing. Note: it's also possible, although unlikely, that you have a bad 'run capacitor.' I would take a look at it (it's a gray or silver oblong shape electrical device with wires attached to it) and see if it's 'bulged' in any way - which is an obvious sign that it's bad. Barring a 'bulge' I would assume the capacitor is ok - which it probably is.

At this point and with the above indications - I would think you'd need an experienced serviceperson to look at your system.

2. But - 'it's also possible that when you actually turn the system off - MAKE SURE ALL POWER IS OFF -and feel of the compressor it "could be cool/cold' to the touch. If' that is the case - then I would look for a 'wire burnt off it's connection' (somewhere in the unit), bearing in mind that the obvious place for this to be will be on the compressor itself.

You will have wires running to the compressor and will be behind a little black plastic cover held on by a silver wire clamp. Remove the clamp - pull the plastic cover out - and examine the connections under it - looking for a wire that is burnt off. Move the wires a little because often the wire will be burnt off but it will not look like it - and by moving the wire you will see that it is not connected. If you find a wire burnt off - then you just need to get a new connector and connect it back on the wire and put the connector back on it's connection and you 'should' be fine.

A wire being burnt off a connection at the compressor 'could be' a sign of something seriously wrong with your system but 'usually' you can repair the wire and the unit will be ok. Maybe the connection had been 'loose' from the factory and finally burnt into or etc etc. But, as stated - to could be an indicator of something else. The only thing you can do is to repair it and hope for the best.

Note - obviously - you would want to have a 'wire burnt off' instead of all the other stuff, i.e. 'out or low' on refrigerant,' or a 'compressor mechanically/electrically wearing out.'

Hope this has helped.

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I have error code 114 on my American standard a/c. What does that mean?

114 is a communication error in the air handler. It can be the afc board, the blower motor or both. Cycle power to the AHU by the breaker. Leave off for about 10 seconds. If error comes back you will likely, at least need an afc board.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

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Does American standard still use the AC/DC motor in their variable speed air handler that was causing problems requiring early replacement

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Dear Sir,I have an Amana Distinction 2.0 Ton heat pump, SEER 14 installed in my department about 4 months ago. I've noticed that the AC has a regular pattern running in the on/off cycle and that i

You need a tech. All 14 seer units have an X13 motor which speeds up and down on start up. A tech will adjust your tstat programing. Fan stays on after unit is done cooling to help drain water in cooling and cool off heat strips in heating,
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I have a E2EB-017HA air handler and I want to change it to a variable speed motor. Is this possible

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Amana heat pump/AEPF variable spd air handler system works great, but air flow at the higher speed is just too noisy (ducts are not very wide). Is there a way to limit how fast the air handler / blower...

Open the airhandler -should be a speed selector on the main board. If not -checkt he installation/set-up manual. May be some dip switches you can turn on or off to modify blower speed.
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I have error codes flashing on my thermostat..it is an american standard model the manual for the therm. has ACOT900AC43UA on front..says to find addedum 18-HD32D2-1/69-2009 for codes i cannot find it...

Error codes from American Standard Pub 18-HD32D2-8, which is a one-sheet document that came with my American Standard air-conditioner:

29 = not listed

129 = not listed

80 = HPCO Fault - problem is in outdoor unit - Desscription: High Pressure Monitor Fault (hard lock out, cycle power to reset)

91 = Communication Inactive Fault - problem is in air handler - Descriptions - COMM Bit Master Clock Error, COMM Heat/Cool Demand Error, Serial Motor Communication Inactive Error

91 = Communication Fault - problem is in furnace - Descriptions: Blower motor no COMM response, Inducer motor no COMM response, Loss of heat/cool demand, Loss of clock signal

91 = Communication Fault - problem is in outdoor unit - Descriptions: Loss of Heat/Cool Demand Message (COMM), Loss of Bit Master (Clock Signal)

91 = Communication Fault - Description: Comm line is dead and no bits have been received.

By the way, I do not recommend American Standard. I've had mine 14 months and it just blew up - the entire control panel blew. My advice to you - think about a different brand.

Nancy
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