My EV-3 will quit when up against the slightest bump. I have to back up and get a running start to get over it. Why can I not just accelerate in forawrd to overcome the slight bump?.

Test sparkplugs ev. measure resistans all the same (nearly)

Most nailers have a two position setting on the trigger to allow for single fire or bump fire. If set on bump fire, the gun will work better when you bump fire the gun instead of placing the gun on the work then depress trigger. Bump fire works best when safety spring has good tension. Easy test. Make sure that the safety spring is in place (with air hose removed, contact foot should spring back quickly when pushed against work). With air connected, hold trigger and quickly bounce the gun against the work. If the gun does not fire when you bump, the trigger is most likely set to single fire. With trigger set to single fire, you must place the gun against the work, then depress trigger. If the gun shoots two nails while set to single fire, most likely worn trigger or worn out trigger valve. These parts are not expensive and are easy to replace. Good luck

I just replaced diaphragms in the tweeters in a pair of EV Sentry 200 speakers. The tweeters had 4 bolts holding them together. One of them was stuck. It's just a matter of gently but firmly twisting it back and forth until it starts coming apart. Make sure you take it apart evenly or it will bind.

If greasing the u-joints eliminated the noise for 3 days, that would be the first place to suspect. The grease will briefly remove most of the slack in the joint until it is slung out and the needle bearings will once again run dry & wobble. This noise can be anything from a grind to a loud squeal. I hope this helps.

Some Car CD players have suspensions which are filled with some liquid (semi-solid). It is quite likely that these suspensions are damaged.

sonsunny

You almost certainly need a new fuel tank sensor. It is thin resistance wire wound in a spiral onto a form. as the float moves on a pivot, a blade sticking out form that same pivot slides across the windings of resistance wire. The current that flows through the gauge then flows through the tank sensor to ground. If the sliding blade makes poor contact, the resistance in the grounding circuit from the gauge will vary wildly, and it is that current that the gauge is reporting.

The tension of the blade against the resistance wire is very light to avoid wearing it out. With every bump and corner you take, with every acceleration and braking, the float moves around, and if there were any appreciable tension against those windings, they would wear out shortly.

The heat shields that are positioned between the exhaust pipe and floorboard or between the exhaust pipe and sensitive electrical components are made of very cheap, thin, tin-like metal. When they rust on one side, one of the tabs comes loose and the whole shield will vibrate especially when accelerating. Since you are getting the noise when you hit a bump, you might check the area where you stow the spare tire (loose tools may be vibrating against the metal). Also the plastic protective pieces behind front bumper sometimes tear and will "flap' against the car and sound like a metallic vibration when you hit a bump especially if you were stuck in snow recently. Look for loose plastic pieces.

You need to clean the carb. or you may need to buy a carb. kit. But do a cleaning on it first. If you need tips on how to best do this, just let me know. Also check the fuel lines for cracks. As they age, they become brittle.

Jim

There's the issue. You're over-cammed and over/under over fueled, but under exhausted and under compressed. You've miss-matched the engine. In my experience, overcamming the stock piston and jug doesn't do a bit of good. You don't have enough compression to utize the additional air and fuel. You can try running a better pipe, but in my opinion, unless you bump her up to 8-1 compression, that cam set is hurting, not helping.