How do I turn the refrigerator and freezer back on after I defrosted it?

SOURCE: Water Freezing in bottom of Freezer and dripping out front of freezer door

this could either be a blocked drain from the freezer not allowing defrost water to escape or the defrost heater failing to turn on due to a faulty defrost heater or defrost timer not enabling the water to escape

SOURCE: Defrost problem on a LG Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

I had the same trouble. I found out if you have the digital display of temperature type of refrigerator adjust the freezer temperature to +5 degrees. The defrost systems uses a circuit board type. Not sure how it works. I took the back panel of and looked at the board. Did not see any manual defrost methods. I had to remove all the contents of the freezer and manually defrost. have not a problem since.

SOURCE: Samsung double door refrigerator/freezer is not

I just had (have?) this same problem. I called out the repair man and in the end he suggested that I buy a new fridge because of all the problems reported with my model (RS2555SL) on the internet. Anyway, after a while I heard what sounded like a fan trying to spin on the fridge side. I unplugged the unit, removed the inside back panel on the fridge side. The entire coils and the fan had iced over. I removed all the ice, plugged the unit back in and it is now working. I will still replace this unit because I probably only corrected the symptom but the problem remains.

Charles T Nevin

• 4070 Answers
• Posted on Oct 01, 2009

SOURCE: My Kenmore refrigerator coldspot #70192001 is not

Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?psid=26129238&sid=PSx20071217x00001a

SOURCE: Kenmore 596.72913200 refrigerator cold, freezer cold but not freezing

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