I have a Kelvinator KD 12 WW dishwasher. When I start a cycle, I hear the pump running, and then nothing. The wash cycle does not start

SOURCE: siemens hydrosensor dishwasher SE25A091GB/22

Paul

If you are still trying to sort out this issue try the following.

From what you say then it is most likely the aqua sensor on the side of the dishwasher. The gurgling sounds that you hear are likely the drain pump running and the un-drainable water sloshing in the sump.

Verify that there is actually water going to the dishwasher( Basic step but often overlooked)

Next the inlet valve will have to be checked. This is the part where the water line from the house connects to the dishwasher, under the toe/kick panel. Remove power from the dishwasher. Disconnect the dishwasher electrical connections (2 wires) to the inlet valve and connect it (carefully to 110 V power) using a jumper wire. With 110V power the valve should open and water will flow into the dishwasher, if not then the fault is in the inlet valve.

If this checks fine then the fault is likely in the aqua sensor...

On the outer left side (viewed from front) there is a panel, Behind this panel there is a small clear(of light blue) plastic mechanism with hoses and wires attached( There is usually a yellow disk at the top about 6cm in diameter) this is a float and sensor assembly there is tells the control the water level and works as an emergency drain if there is an issue. There will be a red stick protruding downward to the base and a Styrofoam float on which the stick rests. This is a pan overflow sensor if the stick is too high the unit will go into drain and cut off the fill valve power. The yellow disk is a diaphragm which senses water height. This unit can become stuck with wear and hard water.

SOURCE: Dishwasher making loud noise during wash cycle

It's noisy If your dishwasher seems noisy, check these:

Water-inlet valve
Motor
Heater fan
Pump
Water-inlet valve An aging water-inlet valve can sometimes fail slowly, rather than all at once. It can shudder on and off rapidly, causing the incoming water lines to shake, rumble, and rattle--sometimes violently. If yours is doing this, replace the inlet valve. 

Motor If it's the motor that's noisy, either of these may be the "culprit:"

• As motor bearings wear out, they can become quite loud when the motor runs. They wear out quickly if they frequently get wet, because the water washes away the motor bearing grease. Bearings can get wet if the spin seal is defective. Then there will also be water leaking onto the floor beneath the dishwasher. Replace the seal if it leaks (read about the main tub seal in the "It leaks" section, later).



• If, from beneath the dishwasher, you can see a round, plastic disc that's mounted to the top of the motor (a "slinger"), it may have broken free of the motor shaft. If so, it could be rattling around the shaft while the motor is running. If that's the problem, you need to replace the motor.

Heater fan If the heater fan bearings are rusted or worn, they may squeal, or scrape loudly during the drying cycle. If this is the problem, replace the fan motor. Alternatively, the fan blade may be loose. If so, you need to replace it.

Pump Small fruit pits, toothpicks, and fragments of glass sometimes get stuck in the pump. When this happens, open the pump and remove the debris. The pump is usually mounted directly to the motor, then attached to the bottom of the dishwasher. 

To get to the pump, you usually need to remove the lower rack, the spray arms, and the spray arm support from the inside of your dishwasher. A dishwasher pump isn't obvious. Look for an impeller--a round, plastic fan blade-type device that spins around and pushes the water toward the drain. When you can see the drain impeller, you should be able to see the clogging debris.
thanks and accept the solution accordingly

SOURCE: Diswasher Pump won't stop running

Introduction: This may work for your problem, but only if you're finding that you cannot get further water to flow into your machine. If your machine fills, OK, then this ISN'T a solution to your problem.

I have a Bosch SHV. My sink drain backed up, and the water accumulating in the sink then migrated to the dishwasher, through the drain pipe, causing the dishwasher to fill up and, it turned out, overflow a little. When I turned on the dishwasher, the water drained, but no new, clean water came through the hot water pipe. The drain just kept running, but nothing else happened.

Here's what happened. Under the main chamber of the dishwasher, by three inches or more, is a white plastic tray. It sits almost at the floor, and it may not be obvious that it's a tray capable of holding water. The overflow water spilled into that tray, which in turn caused a float in the far left side of the tray to lift (the way a toilet float lifts when the water fills in a toilet tank) and shut off the water intake valve (like the toilet float shuts off the toilet water flow). So long as that valve is closed, your machine will not run.

STOP: disconnect power supply at this point for safety.

To see the white plastic tray and thereby fix the problem, you'll need to take off the BLACK TOE-KICK (attached on my unit by two star-head screws at its bottom) and, possibly , the OUTER PANEL OF THE DISHWASHER DOOR (in my case, a custom wood panel (attached by a few screws through the inner side of the door, two screws that are accessed by popping off little--smaller than a dime size--covers on the sides of the doors, and then the door panel lifts up and out). (I took the outer panel off, but I can't remember if I would have had to reach into the white tray without doing so.)

Once you do that, you can see the white plastic tray. It doesn't come out--at least not without removing the entire machine--so try this. You can take your fingers and feel over and into the tray. You'll probably feel the water--I did. Look at the far left of the tray with a flashlight. Back there you'll see a flat, round, 3-inch diameter piece of white plastic sitting at the bottom of the tray. To its center is a generally U-shaped lever looking device, which, at its far left end, is connected to a red stick pointing up into the machine. When water goes into the tray, the float rises, causing the U-shaped lever to rise, causing the red stick to raise, which (though I couldn't see it) causes an electrical signal to run to, and shut, the valve for your water intake.

I took paper towels, and then a narrowly cut sponge, to sop up the water in the tray. I then took my shop vac and, using it as a blower, blew what little water was left right out. You might be able to use a hair dryer, but first sop out what you can or it'll take forever. Once you've done that, put everything back together and plug your dishwasher back in. My buttons are at the top panel. To reset, hold down the two buttons marked for clear drain for three seconds and release. You should be able to start up then. It took 15 seconds before the water started to run, but it did and the machine works fine again.

Interesting note: The valve that stopped the water from flowing in automatically opened once I got the water out of the tray. You don't need to reset the valve.

Good luck.

Montpelier Man

SOURCE: Diplomat Dishwasher ADP8352 Will not complete wash Cycle

My Diplomat ADP8352 when running a cycle it will run for ages, doesn't seem to get hot. If i switch off the m/c then switch it on again it dumps the water left in the m/c?

any ideas?

SOURCE: kenmore dishwasher has stopped draining.

remove the kick panel below the door, place a pan, etc under where the drain hose connects to the drain extension tube, and slide the clamp back some so you can slide the hose off of the extension tube (white plastic tube) and drain any excess fluid into the aforementioned pan, etc., then unscrew the extension tube and check for plugs, or restrictions.
the sump may also be pluged beneath the strainer assembly, and that requires removing the lower spray arm, the water tube that runs up the inside back of the unit, and the upper parts of the assembly below them to access the drain/pump sump area.
last but not least the impeller is jamed and might be able to be freed by removing whatever has lodged within there..
ya never know...
best of luck,
ttfn