My Kenmore Bottom Mount Refrigerator was turned off for several months. The interior light comes on and the motors are audible, but no cooling taking place. Can you help?

SOURCE: Kenmore model 59675502400

if the evaporator is clogged with ice, then you have a defrost problem.
check the defrost heater and the bi-metal .

to answer your question what controls the fan then it is the module that controls the fan.

you said you have diagnostic to test the damper then there should be a procedure also to test the evaporator fan motor.

why don't you try it..

tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Bottom Freezer - only top does not work

i would check to see if you hear a an blowing in the freezer sect when the door is opened, if you cant hear the fan blowing then there is yout issue, not circulating air up to refrig compartment

SOURCE: Refrigerator and freezer not cooling but lights are on and motor

It's not cool If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

• Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”



• Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.

Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

• The compressor



• The Thermostat



• The overload, relay, or capacitor



• The defrost timer



• The condenser fan motor

Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

• The defrost timer



• The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)



• The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator

SOURCE: Kenmore Bottom-Freezer Refrigerator humming/buzzing sound

HI, The nouse you are hearing is the relay on the compressor. It is possible the relay is going bad but, there is also a chance the conpressor is the problem. You should get a service amn to check it out. I would hate to se you change the relay and then the compressor ruin that too.
I hope tis helps.

Vic

SOURCE: Kenmore refrigerator not cooling

I think you are wrong. Had the same problem. Purchased it at Sears 6 yrs. ago. What a mistake, not very helpful, condascending people. Call Centre personnel go by rote. Had to wait 5 days for repairman, cancelled Sears and went to a small private outfit. It wasn't the compressor at all. It was the condenser and guess what there was no dirt on the condenser. Total bill for part and labor $129.00 Can. BE CAREFUL WHO U CALL FOR SERVICE!!