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If I clean up concrete contaminated by a post-1987 spill pursuant to state clean-up standards, can I continue to use the concrete? If not, what are the requirements?

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You may use non-liquid materials such as concrete that were contaminated with PCBs $50 ppm provided the materials are decontaminated in accordance with a PCB disposal approval, the decontamination provisions of §761.79, or an applicable PCB spill cleanup policy, or if they meet an applicable decontamination standard in §761.79(b). The decontamination standard for concrete under §761.79(b) is <10 µg/100 cm² and requires that cleanup be initiated within 72 hours of the spill. If the state cleanup met these standards, you may continue to use the concrete. Alternatively, you may comply with the requirements of §761.30(p) for continued use of contaminated porous surfaces.

Posted on Jun 29, 2016

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Definitely not a television question
commercial or residential ?
If clean up was done to state regs that concrete is good for any use
just in case

define contaminated
hazardous , carcinogenic ,nuclear, bio hazard
solid concrete slab poured post 1986 will have reo
if sound condition can be used, painted over, carpeted .sealed , tiled.what ever
if cracked up due to demolition
still ok to use for land fill or other rubble type back fill

Posted on Jun 17, 2016

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If I clean up concrete contaminated by a post-1987 spill pursuant to state clean-up standards, can I continue to use the concrete? If not, what are the requirements?


You may use non-liquid materials such as concrete that were contaminated with PCBs $50 ppm provided the materials are decontaminated in accordance with a PCB disposal approval, or an applicable PCB spill cleanup policy, . The decontamination standard for concrete is <10 µg/100 cm² and requires that cleanup be initiated within 72 hours of the spill. If the state cleanup met these standards, you may continue to use the concrete. http://www.qjpcb.com/ Skype : wang.michelle35

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I want to strip the concrete floor that I use jasco seal 6 years a go do you have any product I can use .


  • 1 Make sure that the surface of the concrete is cleaned thoroughly. Remove stubborn dirt or stains with a mixture of one part degreasing cleanser and two parts water. Rinse the concrete well and wait 48 hours before continuing.
  • 2 Use a large paintbrush or a long-handled paint roller fitted with a fine-nap roll to coat the entire concrete surface in a thick layer of soy-based or other environmentally-safe chemical stripper. Allow the stripper to eat away at the sealant for 10 minutes, scrape up the peeling sealant with a paint scraper or putty knife. Clean up all of the debris.
  • 3 Rinse concrete to remove all of the stripper. Let the concrete dry 48 hours. Apply the new sealant or the finish of your choice .
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    From MSDS:
        SMALL SPILL: Soak up spilled material with paper towels and discard in trash.
        LARGE SPILL: Liquid spills on floor or other impervious surfaces should be contained or diked, and should be absorbed with attapulgite, bentonite or other absorbent clays. Collect contaminated absorbent, place in plastic-lined metal drum and dispose of in accordance with instructions provided under Section 13. "DISPOSAL". Thoroughly scrub floor or other impervious surface with a strong industrial type detergent solution and rinse with water.For liquid spills that soak into the ground, contact the applicable Federal, State and or County Health Dept. for disposal recommendations. If disposal is required then refer to Section 13 "DISPOSAL" for instructions.
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    • Where starting is manual (there is a 'start' position on the control(s), a set of switch contacts on the control(s) provides power to the ignition module.
      • A problem of no spark with only one control indicates that the fault is with it or its wiring.
      • A problem with continuous sparking even with all the controls off or in their normal positions indicates a short - either due to a defective switch in one of the controls or contamination (e.g., spilled liquid) bypassing the switch contacts.

    • Where starting is automatic, an electronic sensor, thermocouple, or bimetal switch provides power to the ignition module as needed.
    Before you blame the ignition module for either lack of spark or continuous spark, make sure the wiring is in good condition and completely dry and clean ( or reasonably clean). Confirm that proper voltage is reaching the module with a multimeter or neon test lamp. The modules are quite robust:
    • Any liquid that may have dripped into the module may result in temporary or permanent failure. Fortunately it may be possible to pop off the bottom cover (with power OFF or the module removed!) and clean it. The most likely failure would be the SCR if you are into component level repair. Else, just replace it.
    • WARNING: There are several capacitors inside that may be charged to as much as 300 volts. The charge they can hold is probably not dangerous but may be painful or startling. Discharge these before touching anything inside or attempting to check components. Use a screwdriver blade or test clips and then confirm that they are discharged with a multimeter.
    • Contamination of the controls from spilled liquid may result in continuous activation of the ignition module since any electrical leakage across the switch contacts will likely be enough to activate it. Remove the control panel cover and dry it out or unplug the range or oven for a couple of days. If the contamination is not just plain water, it is a good idea to clean it thoroughly to prevent future problems.
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