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You are first going to have to support the lower control arm that the spring is mounted to. Start by removing the wheel, then disconnect the lower control arm from the knuckle/hub assembly. This should be supported with the jack. Slowly lower the jack and by doing so this will free the spring. You may have to slightly pull it out from the spring seat pocket area. Place the new spring back in the seat and have a helper slowly raised the jack while you position the arm back into position.
There has to be either a nut and washer under the toilet, or if its reversed a bolt head with a washer under it holding it down. To remove it you can either use a hacksaw blade between the bowl and the bottom of the seat. Or use a dremel tool to slowly cut away the metal rod, etc., from the top. If using hacksaw put down some masking tape on the bowl so you don't scar up the enamel surfacr of the bowl. Work slowly and you will eventulaly cut through it.
Some vehicles have drop down rear seat, should be a button or pull strap to release. Others do not have the option, and would require removal of the lower seat and seat back by removing bolts.
Anything much lower than an inch and a half, the ride quality suffers bad! Put a lowering kit in the front forks and use shorter shocks in the rear. DO NOT install any type of aftermarket kit that moves the rear shock mount rearward. If the bike still isn't low enough, check into purchasing a thinner seat. Good luck!
Undo the two nuts and washer assembly holding the seat and lid onto the cistern. Lift off and lay down lid side down with back of lid facing you. Undo small screws in the chrome hinge arm brackets. They will the slide off. You can now see the two soft closure cylinders. One is for the seat and one for the lid. Usually lid has black tab and seat has white tab. The whole unit slides in and out, but you must push the little clip tab up, between the two locating lugs with a very small blade screwdriver and at the same time grip with pliers or molegrips and draw it out. There are no serviceable parts as far as I am aware. It is a sealed unit. The usual problem is the lid/ seat being forced down and internal pressure cracking the barrel of the cyclinder. Replace the unit and reassemble in reverse.
Either live with it or replace it. The hinge is not serviceable and the soft close action does not last forever. They rarely last more than five years, maximum.
ck lid screws especially on newer models on these the lid switch is located left rear corner just behind lid hinge if switch is on right side close lid slowly and listen for click if none heard try pressing down on lid at switch location if washer starts replace switch if switch lever broke change switch..on other type switch lower lid slowly and listen for click if none heard and hinge screws ok raise lid and push lid hinge toward back slightly and try again still no click raise console switch is on left and just snaps in place
I believe you can remove the back seat and get into it. Remove the lower part of the back seat first and remove attaching bolts/screws to remove the upper part of the seat.
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