I got power acoustik subwoofer low Q Driver 500w it's for car but have it connected to tv, the speaker wrks but how do I know if the that's on the back of round housing.
You need to re-think how you are getting power to the speaker itself. IF YOU ONLY HAVE THE TONGUE AND GROOVE type of connectors( they slide on and off very easily) then your vital part is missing. This type speaker is made for 110 hertz and down. If you don't have the amp or the crossover then you are exposing your speaker to frequencies it was not built for. It will blow it and you'll be replacing a decent speaker. If you are going to run a "Surround Sound" or "Bass Enhanced" system,try looking at computer speakers that are Dolby 5.1 (five tweeters\mid to one Bass speaker) or 7.1 (three tweets, three mid,and one Bass Speaker) capable. If you have a computer repair shop or know what to look for in sets from Radio Shack, Wal-Mart, etc... then you can find good ways to achieve your acoustic goals.
Look at the connections you have on your TV and match up what cables you will need in order to connect it correctly. Also, remember you may need to make some equalizer adjustments via tour TV audio adjustment option.
There are just too many variables trying to run speakers made for a car that require DC current. Without a AC-DC converter with proper voltage and amps, you are creating a potential fire hazard and needs to be replaced.
Hope this helps shed light on your acoustic goals.You need to re-think how you are getting power to the speaker itself. IF YOU ONLY HAVE THE TONGUE AND GROOVE type of connectors( they slide on and off very easily) then your vital part is missing. This type speaker is made for 110 hertz and down. If you don't have the amp or the crossover then you are exposing your speaker to frequencies it was not built for. It will blow it and you'll be replacing a decent speaker. If you are going to run a "Surround Sound" or "Bass Enhanced" system,try looking at computer speakers that are Dolby 5.1 (five tweeters\mid to one Bass speaker) or 7.1 (three tweets, three mid,and one Bass Speaker) capable. If you have a computer repair shop or know what to look for in sets from Radio Shack, Wal-Mart, etc... then you can find good ways to achieve your acoustic goals.
Look at the connections you have on your TV and match up what cables you will need in order to connect it correctly. Also, remember you may need to make some equalizer adjustments via tour TV audio adjustment option.
There are just too many variables trying to run speakers made for a car that require DC current. Without a AC-DC converter with proper voltage and amps, you are creating a potential fire hazard and needs to be replaced.
Hope this helps shed light on your acoustic goals.
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you can do it but that bass cannon will not power the sub well at all. They put out maybe 40 watts RMS. best to find a cheep receiver and do it that way a lot less hassle. better sound. If you dont understand give me a shout.
Sub-woofers work on a low hertz as per audio. You have a built-in amp that has a crossover that separates frequencies under 100 Hz. Typical Hertz range is between 20-60. Since you have a built-in amp the black rectangle is a heat sink which helps to dissipate heat away from the internal components and also seconds as a cover to keep debris and other foreign objects from getting to the amp and burning it out.
the shown photo is a bit confusing too me , clearly this is an automotive speaker , but in the photo there is clearly a home power cord shown , is this power cord connected anywhere on this speaker ? as if it is , id be afraid that amp has received home power and not car power , as the two are not the same and have tremendous differences and would be quite damaging to this amp possibly unrepairable damage
If you sub is dual 4 ohm voice coil, you can get a 4000 watt amp (which will give you 1700 watts RMS at 2ohms). The model number is OW-BAMF40001D. Hope this helps.
Check to make sure all the wires are in complete contact, look at the terminals, there should be wires off of that, leading into the speakers, make sure they are all intact.
You need to re-think how you are getting power to the speaker itself. IF YOU ONLY HAVE THE TONGUE AND GROOVE type of connectors( they slide on and off very easily) then your vital part is missing. This type speaker is made for 110 hertz and down. If you don't have the amp or the crossover then you are exposing your speaker to frequencies it was not built for. It will blow it and you'll be replacing a decent speaker. If you are going to run a "Surround Sound" or "Bass Enhanced" system,try looking at computer speakers that are Dolby 5.1 (five tweeters\mid to one Bass speaker) or 7.1 (three tweets, three mid,and one Bass Speaker) capable. If you have a computer repair shop or know what to look for in sets from Radio Shack, Wal-Mart, etc... then you can find good ways to achieve your acoustic goals.
Look at the connections you have on your TV and match up what cables you will need in order to connect it correctly. Also, remember you may need to make some equalizer adjustments via tour TV audio adjustment option.
There are just too many variables trying to run speakers made for a car that require DC current. Without a AC-DC converter with proper voltage and amps, you are creating a potential fire hazard and needs to be replaced.
Hope this helps shed light on your acoustic goals.
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