Subwoofer won't power on, but if I remove and reinstall the fuse, the power LED comes on but immediately fades. What is the problem?

If the blue LED on your Energy ESW-V10 subwoofer is always on but the woofer won't turn on regardless of the switch position, it's possible that there is an issue with the amplifier or power supply. Try checking the power cord and making sure it's plugged in securely. If that doesn't work, you may need to have the subwoofer professionally repaired or replaced.

Failing power supply

first clean your board.ok.....same problem......?remove chargin connector

You can remove the screw near the volume knob and the screw near the on/off switch - then slide out the amp remove the black and white wire - then check the fuse - if its blown look for we repair amps - ebay - if its good then it probably still needs work - it should turn red when plugged in and no signal and green when signal is present - which means amp is on.

Hello

It looks like you have posted this before. Unfortunately, I don't know what you have tried so I may be repeating some of your earlier troubleshooting.

The subwoofer needs its own power supply to function properly. if it isn't getting enough power, the sub will not work at all.

On the back of the unit, you should see a green LED when the power is turned on. Is this light on all of the time of does it fade / flicker? This would indicate the power supply is going bad and you need to replace it.

http://forums.creative.com/t5/Speaker-Systems/GigaWorks-S750-power-problems-green-LED-faded-and-flickering/td-p/547311;jsessionid=9B7C9D2D939336148A9036D7E7D18A12

The amp is blown. You need to get it in for service. No telling exactlly what is wrong untill it is opened. 215-736-8055

you may of caused a short in the connections or it got moisture why in storge if so the hole subwoofer is screwed

The issue is most likely a short in the amp internal circutry where power is essentially flowing without resistance acrosss the short. You may or may not have sound or crackling noise as it depends on where the short is.

If you are electronically inclined, I suggest the folliowing:

- disconnect all power and open the amp up
- look for any burn marks around the circut board and parts.
- first focus in on the area where the power comes in - see if any diodes (black cylinders with stripes on them) are burnt / cracked
- next have a look at all the MOSFETS. These should be 3-legged components and will likely be mounted to the shell or heatsink. Look for any burn marks or cracks on these.
- also look for any wire or component that may be shorting other components. Generally all wires should have shielding and all components should be soldered firmly. Anything crossing other components could be a problem.

If you find any burnt/cracked components, they will need to be replaced.

Here is a sample image showing the MOSFET chips to the top and bottom on the aluminum rail.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2514/3981/31284490262_large.jpg

Well, so far so good. I reinstalled the newly repaired amp and fired it up and so far, so good. Ran it through about an hour of fairly intense break-in tracks and then ran it through about 2 dozen power up and down cycles to try to get it to fail (better now than a month from now and have to fight them on backing it up).

I fixed my subwoofer. The resistor at R16 (right next to the fuse) was the fried component. I removed it and replaced it with a 13K ohm 5 watt metal oxide resistor (from Mouser Electronics if not available locally). Works fine now. I got the solution and the circuit schematic from an audio hobbiest at diyAudio.com. This is, evidently, a fairly common problem.