Hi , i got a code 13 can get rid of it , cleaned vent

The error code 13 indicates that the PTG2-42PVN is not getting enough air or the vent termination is blocked. Check both the intake and exhaust termination for blockages and remove any debris. Make sure that you have good air flow in the room (no other vents should be blocked). Clean any other blocked vents. If you use a fireplace or space heater in that area, open a window or vent to increase the oxygen levels in the room. If other appliances are used in the area, make sure that they aren't affecting the ventilation and oxygen levels in the area. If you bring in air to the water heater from the outside, make sure that other appliances aren't exhausted to that area.

ManualsLib has the manual for the PTG2-42PVN: https://www.manualslib.com/products/Rheem-Ptg2-42-Pvn-Pvp-330558.html . The error codes and solutions are listed on page 33: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/140606/Rheem-Ph-16-Fisn-Fisp.html?page=33#manual .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Before calling service technician, open following links for troubleshoot resources including Rheem chat, and Rheem contact, and possible product manual:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html

C7 13 might be bad flow control valve.
While the tankless is down, I suggest also catching up on general maintenance such as cleaning the combustion chamber and burner parts, checking vent drain line, and cleaning water filter, and de-liming the heat exchanger.
Some resources are shown following pdf:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Tankless-maintenance.pdf

1) Never, ever install tankless water heater, unless your wallet is 2" thick and you enjoy nuisance problems and recommended continual maintenance.
2) Add in-line air vent.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Air-vent-added-to-return-22.jpg
3) Look for check valve along the line. Look for mixing valve, pressure regulating valve, etc.
4) If you have recirculation system, remove cross-over check valve and see if problem is located there.
5) Contact Rheem. 800-432-8373 They will want model number, serial number, and name of installer. And might recommend contacting installer or plumber.
6) Increase water flow. Check water flow requirement of tankless (.5 gallons per minute activation) with actual flow at faucet.
7) Clean water filter at tankless unit.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Tankless-maintenance.pdf
8) Crossover at single-handled faucet.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html
9) Fix all leaking faucets indoor and outdoor so no air is being sucked in.
10) Bad TP valve on water heater sucking in air each time water pressure pulls on the valve?

Additional resources: No information about air-in-line
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html

1) Guesses: Sounds like a bad single-handled faucet cartridge, or low water flow at faucet, or clogged water filter.
Replace faucet cartridge, clean the aerator, and/or clean sediment out of pipes below sink, and clean water filter at tankless unit each month.

2) For exact measure of problem:
Typical faucet can have 2 gallon per minute flow rate.
2 gpm flow rate means faucet fills 1 gallon container in 30 seconds. Test faucet using 1 gallon container and a cooking timer to get flow rate.
Clean aerator to improve flow rate. Compare kitchen flow rate with other faucets in home.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-hot-water-pressure.html

Most homes have 1/2" diameter pipe running to kitchen faucet.
100 feet of 1/2" diameter pipe holds 1.2 gallons of water. This assumes no sediment build-up inside pipes.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-recirculation-system.html

Assuming only hot is turned on: If faucet is 100 feet away from water heater, and pipe diameter is unobstructed 1/2" diameter, and faucet has 2 gallon per minute water flow, then hot water should arrive in 36 seconds.
50 feet away, and hot water should arrive in 18 seconds.

If kitchen has single handled faucet, and the handle is raised in the middle, then equal amounts of hot and cold water are drawn at same time. This doubles amount of time for hot water to arrive.

If single handle faucet has a bad cartridge, then faucet can have crossover.
Crossover means that cold water can enter the faucet even if faucet is turned to hot.
Bad single-handled faucet cartridge can delay or stop the arrival of hot water.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html

Tankless require maintenance including cleaning combustion parts yearly, de-lime heat exchanger frequently, and clean water filter each month.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Tankless-maintenance.pdf
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Bosch_Overcoming_fluctuating_temps.pdf
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html

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Before calling service technician, open following link for Rheem troubleshooting resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html

Error codes are consider start-point for troubleshooting:
Following example information might help.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Error-code-13.pdf

Multiple error codes can mean different things, including bad PC board.
C2 13 might be the oxygen sensor. -0 and no operation indicates bad board, but other things might be notched into same problem like loose connections.
Error codes are starting point for troubleshooting.
Before calling service technician, open following link for Rheem-Paloma troubleshoot resources including Rheem chat.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html

Upvote the help.
And take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

I have the exact same problem with error code 13 on my Rheem/Ecosense 180dvn . The unit ran good for at least a year, and then I started getting the same error 13 every few minutes. I called the Rheem service department, and they told me to check the vent installation as well as the gas pressure. I reinstalled the vent with new seals. I only have about 6 ft of vent, so there should be very little resistance. I checked the gas pressure, and it shows 9 in H20 pressure, which is well in the range recommended. The service center scoffed at the suggestion that it could be their circuit board. I am totally at a losss and at the verge of ripping this very expensive installation out of my attic.

The brown flakes are most likely rust from either the tank or associated metal piping. They could also be from the anode used in hot water tanks to combat electrolysis. Does the water have a Sulphur" or "rotten egg" smell to it? Are you on a well? There shouldn't be so much, as to plug up the valves. Turn off your heat source to the hot water tank. At the bottom of the tank is a faucet. Hook a garden hose to it, run it out side where the hose lays lower than the faucet if possible and flush the tank untill you have clear water again. You may want to do this a couple of times to be sure you get rid of any sediment in the tank. When you are done flushing, make sure you have the air out of the tank by opening a hot water faucet until it runs clear with no "spurts" of air. Shut the faucet off and turn the gas back on, light the pilot light and see if the problem persists. Also have your water tested. Sears does this for free -just take a sample in and they will tell you what the hardness is.

They show code 11 as no ignition on the rheem technical page but they do not show anything for code 13. Does it say what code 13 is on the unit somewhere...maybe inside the cover? Is this a direct vent model? What size gas line do you have going to the unit? Make sure it is not undersized. How is the water flow? Does it flash the code with all the faucets on? It might be a water flow issue. Let me know more info so I can assist you further.