20 Most Recent Noritz 7.1 Gpm Natural Ng Gas Tankless Hot Water Heater Questions & Answers

You are doing everything you can. Your dishwasher probably isn't drawing enough hot water to activate the unit so opening the faucet and flowing more water will activate the unit. Just try to adjust the flow from the faucet to a point it, plus the draw from the dishwasher, will activate the unit. This will come with trial and error as I am sure you have already experienced. Also, open the dishwasher when it does get filled and check the water temperature. You might have the unit set at a low discharge temperature. Do you have a touchpad to control the water temperature adjustment?

you probably had debris get into the filter or flow sensor when the water was turned back on. I'd recommend checking the filter first and if that doesn't work, call Noritz Tech support to help you with the flow sensor.

the filter is a black plug located on the cold water line (labeled cold on the bottom of the unit). It points torwards the left.

Are you sure you have an NR71? or is it an NRC model? only NRC models should be getting that code. Anyways, your house water treatment system has nothing to do with the neutralizer. The Neutralizer that it is telling you to replace is not there to treat the water going to your house. It is neutralizing the acidic condensate produced by the exhaust in your "condensing" unit. Without a new Neutralizer the condensate that drains out the bottom of the unit will be strong enough to kill plants and eat away very slowly at some items or metals underneath the skinny condensate drain. It's not a big deal unless you have the unit sitting above something you really care about and there's no condensate drain pipe attached. Either way, if you buy a new Neutralizer it comes with instructions on how to reset the timer so that you don't have to have the EC 92 bug you anymore.

OK Lag the Pipes, you can get insulation that comes in two halves that goes around the pipes and uses "Ties" to hold the sides together. Or you could lag it with Hessian wrap, Anything you can wrap around and "Lag" the pipes with will be better than nothing.

Hi,
The unit is plugged up with mineral buildup from the water going through it... it will need to be cleaned internally....this is done by running an acid solution through it to clean out the mineral buildup...

Then it will work again...

heatman101

I assume this is outside? A slow warm heat, would defrost it. If so, is there some way you can make a canopy of some sort to capture heat form say a portable heater of sorts? - Just encompass the tankless unit so it may defrost from the portable heat and you can see what is any damage has occurred and go from there..
Best regards
Ck

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

After the screen cleaning, and you still cant get any water out, you have a major failure.
If you get some water flow, you may try a system flush...
I suggest you contact a service company..these are complex to work on, a requires a trained person.

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response, thanks and good luck

to reset the tankless heater you will need to disconnect electricity. This can be done by either unplugging it, flipping a switch, or flipping the breaker.

That doesnt work with these units they are manufactured gas specific. The manifold plate would need to be changed as well as notification to Noritz to have a new serial # issued. PC board reprogram required, etc. Buy a natural gas or LP model.

This happens with Nortiz heaters. They just **** out. Likely the installation is very bad, but the unit can not tolerate that and it just dies. I recommend getting a Bosch 2700 or 715. If you want great efficacy, get the C-800. But follow the instructions! If it is installed correctly and you have the CO2 levels adjusted when it is installed, you will be very happy.

The brown flakes are most likely rust from either the tank or associated metal piping. They could also be from the anode used in hot water tanks to combat electrolysis. Does the water have a Sulphur" or "rotten egg" smell to it? Are you on a well? There shouldn't be so much, as to plug up the valves. Turn off your heat source to the hot water tank. At the bottom of the tank is a faucet. Hook a garden hose to it, run it out side where the hose lays lower than the faucet if possible and flush the tank untill you have clear water again. You may want to do this a couple of times to be sure you get rid of any sediment in the tank. When you are done flushing, make sure you have the air out of the tank by opening a hot water faucet until it runs clear with no "spurts" of air. Shut the faucet off and turn the gas back on, light the pilot light and see if the problem persists. Also have your water tested. Sears does this for free -just take a sample in and they will tell you what the hardness is.

A few things you should check:

1. Cross Connections - this occurs when cold water leaks into the hot water system through a fixture. In order to check for a cross connection: 1) turn off the cold water to the tankless 2) open up hot water fixtures in the home. The water should shut off at all hot water fixtures; if there is a continuous flow of cold water, then you have a cross connection. The most common place to find a cross connection is on old shower cartridges.

2. Ask the customer to check to see if the burner indicator is continuously lit during operation.

3. When the water goes cold at one fixture, try another near by fixture to confirm it is also cold there. If its hot at one fixture but not the other, then you have some issue with you plumbing. Tankless heaters can't pick and choose which fixtures to deliver hot water to.

4. Tankless water heaters all have a minimum flow rate that must be maintained in order to continually fire (.5 gpm for Noritz). Ensure their hot water fixtures flow at least this amount, or that the customer isn't mixing too little hot water at their fixture.

5. If they see the cold spurt during initial firing, they may be experiencing a cold water sandwich. When the heater moves from a standing state to a firing state it takes a short period to ignite and heat water. During this time it will be passing cold water through the system. Usually this cold water mixes with hot water in the line as it travels through the plumbing system, but if their fixture is very close to the heater, there won't be enough time to mix.

6. If debris has gotten into the flow sensor, this can prevent the unit from registering flow and cause intermittent firing.

you need to unplug the unit, wait for 30 seconds reset the temp to the lowest temp, then try it, if this does not work it might have done something to the circuit board, are you on a gfi out let it needs to be there is water and ele, and should be on the gfi with a reset on it,,

Your manual will tell you what that code means and what repair must be made.