Handle came loose on my craftsman torque wrench. What is the proper way to replace it? I noticed that the nut on the inside came loose. If I re-tighten the nut will it effect the torque calibration? I

Tools you'll need:
• Adjustable wrench; C wrench
• Phillips and/or flat-head screwdriver
• Penetrating oil, such as WD-40 or CRC
• Replacement washers and O-rings
Step 1: Don't make a mess worse by transforming your broken faucet into Old Faithful. Before applying any wrench or screwdriver to your fixture, make sure your water supply is turned off, from the handles over the sink to the knobs underneath that control the water coming in from the main line.
Step 2: Remove any decorative parts of the handle knobs. A simple prying with a flat-head screwdriver will take care of that. Underneath each knob, there will be a screw that mounts the handle to the stem. Unscrew, then gently remove the handle with your flat-head. Using penetrating oil can assist in loosening it, allowing you to take the faucet handle off the stem.
Step 3: Use your wrench to loosen the packing nut. From there you should notice the stem. Remove that as well. Depending on the faucet, some stems pop right off, while others twist off from the valve. Check the removed parts for any damage.
Step 4: If everything is intact at this point, inspect the O-ring and washer inside the valve seat-they could be the reason for your leak. Remove the washer and put a replacement inside the seat.
It's crucial to make sure your replacement washers and O-rings are an exact fit. If you are unsure about either, check the seat to see if the sides fit a cone-shaped or flat washer, and purchase the appropriate type. You may want to take the old O-ring to your local hardware store to verify the correct size. You can also buy a package including many different sizes of O-rings-sometimes it's worth the extra few bucks.
Step 5: From here, carefully reassemble all the parts (in order of washer/O-ring, stem, packing nut, screw, and handle). Slowly and gently turn the knob to test the running water and check to see if you've ****** that leak.
If, after all of your hard work, you notice the faucet is still dripping, then the cause may be corrosion in your valve seat. If not cleaned over time, it can produce leaks near the spout. Other potential problems are worn-out seals, loose parts, or, even worse, broken plumbing. If your troubleshooting leads to these areas, or if other sudden complications occur, then it may be time to call a professional plumber.
Here is Faucets & Fixtures, Sinks & Accessory Reviews .

They all still need to be checked with a torque wrench periodically. ... My BA XR6 has developed a clicking/knocking usually while turning while ... There is a torque setting for the nuts, it cast into the sub member near the mounts. ... Maybe thats all the mid-life b series steering click is, the bolts coming loose.

[PDF]BA Torque Specs

members.optusnet.com.au/~matt_l/tridocss_files/ba_torque_specs.pdf

Torque(Nm) Torque(FtLb) ... Cam chain tensioner blade to cylinder head nut ... Front and rear upper mounting bolts .... Front Suspension/Steering .... NOTE: In stages A and B a torque wrench of known and accurate calibration must be used.

Teleflex Mechanical Steering Tech Reference & FAQ

www.jamestowndistributors.com > Home > How Tos

I'm replacing a Teleflex rack & pinion cable in a 1985 boat. ... If you have installed a non-tilt "Back Mount Rack Helm," order Friction Kit part number ... Morse Command 200 Rack: use Teleflex Back Mount Rack for power-assisted or NFB Rack for ...torque feedback from the engine (which can make the steering wheel turn on ...

Craftsman has a lifetime warranty.. just take it back and get a new one

First you will need to tighten the set screw all the way back in. The use your 4mm hex wrench to turn the screw 4 complete turns counter clockwise. Then remove your hex wrench and the handle should come off. There will be a dome shaped cover with blue and red indicator marks. This will simply pull off the cartridge nut. It is held on by o-ring tension only. Once removed you will see the large hex head of the cartridge retainer nut. Loosen this nut and the nut and cartridge will come out of the faucet. Don't be alarmed if your new cartridge is smaller than your old one. There has been a design change in the cartridge so it will fit smaller bodied faucets but will still replace the older thicker cartidge. If you need any further information feel free to give me a call at Hansgrohe. 1-800-334-0455. Press 2 for tech and ask for David Scarborough. I'd be glad to help.

I test my impact wrench on a good vice and with a high grade steel nut/ washers and bolt that can take high torque. Select bolt with thread almost to the head. Hold head of bolt on solid vice and place two washers(more if needed to reach into threaded area) and nut on bolt. Set air pressure to max (I have 125psi). Run nut against bolt head with impact. Remove nut with torque wrench for reading. This low tech method will give you a rough idea. Higher pressure may give you better result. If you have used your air wrench for a while. Clean by adding diesel fuel into air fitting. Little at at time until diesel comes out rather clean. Then add a few drops of oil. Then test again. Good luck.

Your problem is at other end . Engagement problem is probably due to a loose belt. Make adjustment in that area of mower. GOOD LUCK.

it is fairly easy
1. jack up remove wheel, block car on frame!!! not on the strut
2. remove two big bolts on bottom of strut then have to drive them out of hub housing (splined about 1 inch on head side of bolt.
3. remove the sway bar connector rod (allen key and wrench. or if allen is stripped u can use wrench just in front of boot, so one inside and undo the one nut you can see facing you)
4. open trunk pull carpet back on top of wheel well so you can see 3 nuts in a triangle with one in the center DO NOT REMOVE CENTER NUT this is what holds spring to strut assembly..put a jack under strut to hold it in place .remove the 3 nuts.
5. pry the bottom of strut out of hub
6. drop out strut and spring assembly.
7. use 2 spring depressors to squeeze the spring so u may remove large center nut, use wrench and allen key.
8. replace as a whole unit or just the strut. the whole unit is more expensive and if so delete step 7
9. reverse the steps to install.
10. make sure all bolts are tight and check with torque wrench for proper tightness.
11. MAKE SURE LOL you dont want to go for a drive with any of these parts loose. If u r not experienced take it to a shop.

Go to Sears with make, model, & broken torque wrench and they usually will replace for free or at least be able to order you one.

The compensating sprocket nut is indeed right hand threads. It is torqued to 150-165 foot pounds of torque and usually has Locktite 271 (red) in it. A lot of mechanics go overboard with the Loctite. I've seen the entire inside of the nut "painted" with this stuff. The book calls for "two lines" of the stuff when putting the nut back on.

The easiest way to get the nut off is with a GOOD air wrench. I bought one of those Ingersol-Rand Titanium air wrenches. I've seen nuts on so tight that I've had to use a 3/4" air wrench to get them off. If you don't want to purchase an air wrench, load the bike on a trailer and take it to a tire store. Ask them to take the nut off for you. Usually they'll do it free but they may charge you a couple of dollars. It is worth a couple of dollars to get the nut off.

When putting the bike back together, the compensator sprocket torques to 150-165 ft lbs. of torque with two lines of 271 Loctite in it. The clutch hub nut torques 60-80 ft. lbs. left handed with one line of 271 Locktite. Make sure your torque wrench will torque in the left handed direction. Not all wrenches will.
Good Luck.

here is a diagram on how to get the front pinion seal out and it does mention how to get the axle loose. please do not forget to rate and comment about your experience with fixya today.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, please familiarize yourself with safety procedures.
   
2. Remove both half shafts.
   
3. Mark propeller shaft and pinion flange for installation reference.
   
4. Remove front propeller shaft.
   
5. Rotate pinion gear three to four times, to verify pinion rotates smoothly.
   
6. Record pinion flange rotating torque with an inch pound torque wrench for installation reference.
   
7. Hold flange with Holder 6719 and four bolts and washers.
   
8. Remove pinion nut.
   
9. Remove flange with Remover C-452.
   
10. Remove pinion seal with a pry tool.
    Removing the companion flange
    Measuring pinion rotating torque
    Pinion seal installer
    Tightening the pinion nut
    

To install:

1. Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the lip of pinion seal.
   
2. Install seal with Installer C-3972-A and Handle C-4171.
   
3. Install pinion flange onto the pinion with Installer C-3718 and holder.
   
4. Hold pinion flange with Holder 6719A.
   
5. Install new pinion nut and tighten nut until there is zero bearing end-play.
   
   CAUTION Do not exceed the minimum tightening torque when installing the companion flange at this point. Damage to the collapsible spacer or bearings may result.
   
6. Tighten pinion nut to 271 Nm (200 ft. lbs.).
   
   CAUTION Never loosen pinion nut to decrease pinion bearing rotating torque and never exceed specified preload torque. If preload torque or rotating torque is exceeded a new collapsible spacer must be installed.
   
7. Record pinion flange rotating torque, with a torque wrench. Rotating torque should be equal to the reading recorded during removal plus an additional 0.56 Nm (5 inch lbs.).
   
8. If rotating torque is low, tighten pinion nut in 6.8 Nm (5 ft. lbs.) increments until rotating torque is achieved.
   
   CAUTION If maximum tightening torque is reached prior to reaching the required rotating torque, the collapsible spacer may have been damaged. Replace the collapsible spacer.
   
9. Install propeller shaft with reference marks aligned.
   
10. Install half shafts.