Looking for wiring diagram for heated grip on flhtcuse3 2008 ?

I am not sure if this will help however the Honda GL1800 experiences a similar problem when one of the heated components you mention fails because they are all wired in series. If one grip goes bad all stop working. Check for open circuit at the individual component connectors. Good luck

Here's a link to the wiring diagram for the 1997 Chevy Blazer.

If you remove the pass switch on the left hand switch housing you have room to fit the round rocker switch in the his housing. This makes for a very clean installation. Since in the day time I ride with high beams on the pass switch was of know use to me plus flashing your high beams at a car you intend to over take seems to produce a rather random out come. I traced out the diameter of hole I would need with a scribe and then trimmed it out with a Dremel, test fitting the switch as I went. Much safer then trying to drill a hole that large in a piece of plastic.

Left Side


Right Side



The empty three wire plug under the nose fairing is intended for the factory heated grips. I cut of the plug and wired into the power here. There are three wires, 12v hot, 12v signal, & Ground. The 12v hot use the fuse in the fuse box marked for the heated grips but remains hot even when the bike is off. So I wired in a 12v relay using the signal wire to switch the 12v hot with the ignition. This will prevent dead batteries if I leave the heated grips on or if a passer by feels the need to flip switches on my bike; it's happed before! You will be able to tell which is the 12v hot and 12v signal by pulling the heated grip fuse and seeing which wire remains hot.

Relay

hope this helps

John

this is untrue if the grips are oxford hot grips they should wire str8 to the battery with the red live and black earth ringlet terminal gd luck

The harley heated handgrips are notorious for failing.  Some people have reported finding a loose connection on the ground wire, like they did not crimp the terminal on the end of the wire at the factory.  If they are wired externally of the bars (almost impossible to wire those any other way) then it should be easy to follow the wire down to inside the headlight bucket or in the nacelle or dash, (depending on what model bike) and check the connections.  If both grips quit at the same time then it's probably wiring.  If one quit first, then it may be the grip itself.
If you need to replace them, I would highly recommend not buying the HD brand anymore, and instead choose Polly grip heaters.  They are made for snowmobiles and have a long list of benefits over the HD type: - fits internally in the bar end, so you can use any grips you want - cost $35!!  compared to $250 for HD - easy to install
I have installed over 7 sets in my friends bikes and not one single failure.

My '96 R850R has heated grips which I think are original equipment. In the "Service and Technical Booklet" that came with it, fuse #7 in the junction box is listed as being for the heated handlebar grips. You could see if there's any wiring set up for that fuse on your bike, and it might be a good place to start. The fuses are numbered starting with #1 closest to the left side of the bike, and #7 is a 4 amp fuse.

My '96 R850R has heated grips which I think are original equipment. In the "Service and Technical Booklet" that came with it, fuse #7 in the junction box is listed as being for the heated handlebar grips. You could see if there's any wiring set up for that fuse on your bike, and it might be a good place to start. The fuses are numbered starting with #1 closest to the left side of the bike, and #7 is a 4 amp fuse.

My '96 R850R has heated grips which I think are original equipment. In the Service and Technical Booklet that came with it, fuse #7 in the junction box is listed as being for the heated handlebar grips. You could see if there's any wiring set up for that fuse on your bike, and it might be a good place to start. The fuses are numbered starting with #1 closest to the left side of the bike, and #7 is a 4 amp fuse.