Light does not work

there should be a light bulb housing in the inside back of the dryer. most just need a screw driver to open in, just remember to unplug the dryer before do any kind of electrical work...that includes changing a light bulb. unscrew the housing, make sure not to lose any of the screws. with the correct light bulb, just replace the burnt out one with a new working one.

Brad V's "bad ground" is most likely cause. I'd start investigating with the tail lights. (Not the headlights, but they may also be an issue.) Confirm all bulbs on both sides are good. That includes running lights, brake lights, turn signals and reverse. Some bulbs may have dual-function, the 3157 bulb in the J2K is one that serves stop-light (brake) and tail/running lights. Replace if suspect. Make sure the bulbs are mounted correctly. Rust can cause a poor ground so you might have to replace the socket or fixture if it is grounded to the fixture. By any chance do the turn signals also have issues? Or the emergency flash switch bulbs?

I had this problem too, and finally figured out what was wrong. If you have cleared a jam and have put the nail gun back together, then all you get is a 'thunk' when you try to drive a brad, you have put it back together wrong, as I did. Take the two screws out and pull out all four pieces -- three plates and one skinny 'T' shaped piece. Look inside the unit and you'll see a pointed piece, which is the hammer that drives the brad in. This next step is key: put the first plate back in (the one that is flat on both sides) making sure that it slides in UNDER the hammer. The hammer fits loosely in its housing, so it may help to turn the nailer upside down so that the hammer falls down, giving you the room you need to get the plate in--again, so that it's UNDER the hammer when you turn the nailer back over. Once you have done this part, simply slide the second piece in (the one with the fluted strip down the middle), slide it in fluted side up, then the 'T' piece (with the 'T' in first) then the last piece with the wider groove that contains the 'T' piece. Replace screws and you're back in business! This information may be in the instructions, but I have long ago thrown those away.

I have solved that problems by replacing the plastic Lamp Cover. NEC says they wear out over the years due to the heat. If you have a spare VT700 about, swap covers and see if that works. or order one from NEC, thay cost 5 dollars.

check to make sure that you have the correct bulb in the correct socket in both left and right tail lights. dual filament bulbs have to contacts on the base of the bottom of the bulb. make sure the socket that you are inserting them into also has two contacts. if that doesn't work then you need to get a test light so you can find out if power is going to the bulb housing and all ground. check all fuses also with amp meter

water vapor is in the head light housing and causing this, that is the only thing that causes this.. replace the head light lens assembly.

all you have to do is pull at this point. sometimes they get a little "stuck" in there so move up and down until the bulb comes loose. be sure not to touch the new bulb with bare fingers. if you can, get latex gloves to do this. simply install the new one reversing all the steps you already told me. cheers

Listen closely. The tv should make a high pitch whine as it turns on. If it does wait and see if it tries this a few times. If yes then check the bulb, I have seen cases where the lamp shoves the power connector back into the set. If the tv starts with a grown or heavy vibration noise, then your color wheel may have broken and needs replaced.

"To get access to the 3rd brake light:

- Place each hand against both sides of the plastic housing, and firmly grasp and pull the housing towards you. It might not budge at first, but it should move once you get a good grip on it.

- Pull the housing out just enough so that you can see the brake light bulb and stick your hand underneath. Ignore the speaker wires.

- Pull out the old bulb from the socket (it plugs in/out). Wear rubber gloves when handling the new bulb, and put the new one into the socket.

- Reverse the steps here to put the 3rd brake light back into place. Test out your brake light, and you're done" quoted from lexusk8 @ clublexus.com (great forum)

This is how i did it on my 2006 Sonata

1.) unplug the connector in the trunk (its a small white plug running up to the third light, there should be a small clip you squeeze).

2.) remove the 2 gold-colored screws from inside the trunk. They can be seen from the trunk. 1 is thru the larger square opening where the wire connects to the 3rd brake light. The 2nd is on the right side thru a small (screwdriver width) hole covered by a piece of foam tape stuff I had to punch me screwdriver through the foam to get to it.

3.) after removing the 2 screws, go inside the cabin and the brake light housing pops up.

4.) disconnect the bulb from the housing while inside the cabin (I had to do this with me two forefingers since the housing only pops up and inch or two).

5.) in the trunk remove the wire and bulb. (it's about 5 inches long. the wire from the connector to the bulb socket)

6.) reverse steps to install.

It is a pain and reqiuires a bit of time only because there isn't a lot of room to move around, but it beats taking it to the dealershio!